Numbchux

That's news to me, so I looked it up on Cars101... Legacy 35th is 4-cyl Outback 35th is 6-cyl

04 35th anniversary edition is a 6-cylinder, right? I know the market is different there, and rust-free bodies aren't that rare, but here it would still have some value. And good used EZ30s are not hard to come by, nor expensive.

Of the 2 that I was referring, one was run for about 70k miles (to about 250k) with a TD04 and stock EJ25D ECU, later with injectors, a RRFPR, and over 10 psi of boost. The other had blowby at about 220k when the TD04 was installed. We started with a Perfect Power 6 piggyback on that one, and it was just a bucket of problems. That one ran great with the stock EJ22e ECU, but had other issues, mostly with the poorly-made up-pipe cooking the CV boot. That one was swapped out for considerably more power after about 20k miles, although still running strong.

I suppose it depends on the circles....I see it talked about a lot. And with things like the Raspberry Pi becoming fairly cheap and powerful, stuff like this is becoming extremely affordable: http://pidash.webs.com/

Well, it's been done on the stock ECU. Or swapping in an EJ25 ECU, that'll be expecting a little more air. I've personally seen 2 of these done for many miles, and be surprisingly reliable (the issues were unrelated to the tune. Hoses rubbing, etc.) It's been done with an aftermarket (rising rate, or just higher) fuel pressure regulator and the stock ECU. In my experience, the stock ECU doesn't get along with piggybacks so well. It works for fuel adjustments (but the stock ECU does pretty well in that department anyway), but when you start trying to fool it into changing the timing, it freaks out and the engine dies. Standalones are expensive. I've worked more than a little with Links, and a GEMS controller. And have good friends with experience with Hydras, and Haltecs. But be prepared to spend thousands on a decent one. I've been looking more into Megasquirt. It's got some teething issues, and a bit of a learning curve, but it's becoming much more user friendly and powerful. You can get a nice, pre-built unit for less than a grand. And if you're willing to do some soldering, more like a few hundred. I've been tempted to throw a turbo on my Celica, and if I do, it'd be with a megasquirt.

The engine is out?! That will have an effect on ride height.

So you had a failed spring, and replaced it with a presumed-good used one. Is the 2-2.5" height difference you mentioned compared to the old ride height (with broken spring)? I'm going to refer to my previous questions. I probably will stop checking this thread if you ignore them again.

Your posts are very difficult to read and understand. So you installed different springs, too? Anything else? What do you want to do? Do you want to lift it? Or do you want to return it to stock? These things are both possible, so let's focus on one thing here.

Based on the information given, I'm going to answer all your questions with a resounding "maybe"

I'm sure it is. I've installed 2 of the SJR ones, and they fit excellently as well. You can thank Scott for the tabs on the top for the pitch stopper.

http://sjrlift.com/index.php/catalog/engine-swap-parts/ej-ea-adapter-plate-detail

I just stumbled on a brake bias calculator, and wanted to run the numbers on my XT6 through it, and I thought I'd post it up... Keep in mind, this does not account for brake booster or proportioning valve, so the raw numbers aren't completely accurate, but since I didn't change those parts, it makes for an interesting comparison. I'm using the default 60 lbs of pedal force, and 0.4 coefficient of friction on the pads. Stock XT6 (7/8 master, 54mm front calipers, 262 mm front rotors, 30mm rear calipers and 256 mm rear rotors): 579 psi of line pressure 176 ft/lbs of front braking torque 91 ft/lbs of rear braking torque for a 65% front bias (again, without the proportioning valve) Now I have... SVX Master 1 1/6th, 43mmx2 front calipers, 276 mm front rotors, 38mm rear calipers and 256 mm rear rotors. 451 psi of line pressure 287 ft/lbs of braking torque on the front 114 lb/lbs on the rear leaving 71.4% front bias.

They are reversible. The splines on the shaft should be the same, but I'm really not sure. There's also a chance with a remanufactured axle that they've cut them down....

You might try a pair of '85-'86 EA82 rear shafts, they use a DOJ on the outside as well, instead of a CV, which will telescope a bit. I don't know of an interchangeable inner DOJ cup that is deeper, but it might exist... You're not the first to discover the rear diff being slightly off center. I've even tried swapping shafts, and found one side to be much more difficult than the other. And when I had my Chuxwagon with the original AA lift cranked up almost 2" beyond it's intended height, I ALWAYS broke axles on the same side.

Unless you can find some deeper cups or longer shafts....I think your only option is to lower the diff to ease angles.

Well....XT6 has a different bolt size. I had to drill out the crossmember both times I did it.

Yep, they're terrible cars, don't ever buy another one. And tell all your friends. The last thing I need is more people driving up the resale value. Why are you here? I don't care if you like them or not, everyone's experience is different. I'm the first to admit that there are a brands that I won't try again due to a bad experience that could easily have been a fluke or unrelated. Your 3 car experience is not going to change my mind. I think I've owned 16 Subarus, all purchased in a considerable state of neglect. The situation on your '95 obviously was incompetence, either with the installer or rebuilder. Yes, the EJ251/253 engines are not great, this is extremely well documented, and has been since they first arrived (almost 2 decades ago), I do avoid those, personally. A head gasket failure on a 2014 is VERY rare, I'd bet money it's a mis-diagnosis, honestly. Is that the same shop that wrecked 3 transmissions?

Yes, it's been done hundreds, if not thousands, of times. Usually with a turbo engine swap as well.

Need more information. There's nothing that's a direct, bolt-in. There are probably hundreds of options with enough fabrication......

Good work. FYI, if your car isn't a salvage. 2010 and 2011 Legacies and Outbacks got a warranty extension for the headlights. The dealership will replace them for free. There's also a way to get reimbursed for the ones you've purchased, although I don't know the details on it.

Subaru hasn't bolted a manual transmission behind a 6-cylinder since the XT6 (1988-'91). No Outback ever came with that combination.... 2015 was the last year for a conventional Auto and the 6-cyl, since then it's all been CVTs

Well, you've got a bit of a tall order. The only non-immobilizer Subaru engine that made 250hp on the stock ECU was the 2004 STi EJ257 at 300hp. I would agree, with the information we have, your best match would probably be the 01-04 EZ30, or EG33. '05+ EZ 6-cylinders did offer more power, but are all immobilizer cars, so the stock ECU cannot be used in another car....so unless you're willing to drop the coin on a standalone, and get it tuned, those are out. The same is true [i think] of all '05+ turbos. Subaru never brought the diesel to North America. Although there have been many that have been imported, look into Boxeer in Tennessee. I would be relevant to know an approximate budget and what this is going into....

Many years ago, baccaruda was able to bolt XT6 calipers to an EJ caliper bracket, but he wasn't sure exactly which one..... So yea, there should be a combination, but it's not been documented. If you figure it out, please follow-up with the info!

It's about as simple a circuit as it could be. Ignition-switched power to the fan (not sure where the relay is), ground side goes through the temperature switch on the rad. With the ignition on, you should have 12v+ at the fan, regardless of coolant temperature. Temperature switch is probably set to 185* or so. If you don't have continuity across it at 200*, replace it.