Numbchux

From what I understand, yes, they do. The company I went with (Auto Owners) does not deal straight with customers, so it'd have to be an agent anyway....might as well be one that can shop around for you. When I met with our broker, he had quotes through several companies, and while Auto Owners wasn't the out right cheapest, it was competitive with the cheapest, and they had several reasons to go with them based on our personal situation. Information I NEVER would have known about when I was shopping around.

Brokers are way better than agents. They do not represent any one insurance company, and can shop around for you. Up until last August (when we bought our house), I had had Geico for 7 years. I switched from the stereotypical big, cold, corporation (I never had a claim, but I can't imagine what it would have been like, just getting my billing information updated was a nightmare), to a local brokerage. I went from having just 2 cars covered, to 3 cars (with considerably higher limits), a house, and a couple riders for specific items, and am paying HALF what I was paying. And, now I have a local agent, who knows me by name, knows where I live, etc. I cannot speak to insurance rates from one car to another. My cars are pretty much all old enough that they all cost the same, and I only carry liability coverage. And it's definitely very different based on local trends and laws But, my work in the parts department of a Subaru dealership, I'm dealing with body shops a dozen times a day, and more than occasionally ordering parts to repair other makes for our customers. They are not any more expensive to repair than any other Japanese import. Yes, the common domestic sedans are cheaper, but that's about it. Subaru does like to use pearl paints, and especially Satin White Pearl is apparently a pain, but I can't imagine that really effects the cost of repair that much. I don't believe that they're any more prone to theft than the aforementioned BMW or Mercedes, and replacement cost is definitely cheaper. That said, the only real way to know if that's a good price, is to shop around with the immediate competitors. Talk to some local agents/brokers and see what's what.

Yep, SJR lift, plus ~29" tall A/T or M/T tires. You'd be surprised. If it's an auto trans, there's a relatively simple wiring mod to get the AWD (which is normally very front wheel biased) to work a little better offroad. Search for the Duty C mod, and be careful, as most of the documentation is on the older generation transmissions which work a little different.

This, +1

I'm not sure you're going to find that one at a hardware store...it's pretty thin to fit under the cap, and therefore under the wiper arm. 86514AC000 and MSRP of $2.32. Looks like no dealerships in the region have any on hand, but the Indiana supply warehouse has them, so I bet a dealer near you could have one in a day or 2. Or, look in a Junkyard. It looks like all Legacies, Imprezas, and SVXs used that same retaining nut through 1999 (-2001 for Impreza)

Fair enough, I still think for $50 a pair, I'll go with the Centric PowerStop ones.

I assume that is the 20251AA040, as $5.88 is Subaru MSRP for that. That part number is only the rear lateral link bushing on non-STi GDs (fronts and rears are that number on an STi). The front lateral link is a 20251AA000, which is $30.45! I've driven a few cars with heims in the rear, and while they handle abuse well, they clunk. We had them in our Rally car (TSSFab, although I don't think they offer them anymore), if you're worried about noise, I wouldn't recommend them. I've got all poly bushings in my Celica, have for several years. Love it, a little white lithium on them at install, and they're quiet as the proverbial church mouse.

It would theoretically be possible, but would require considerable wiring changes, as well as much of the heater boxes/actuators. As the manual controlled ones are all cable-operated, and the automatic one has electric actuators in there that move the blend doors....

Am I missing something? The only braided hoses I see on there are Universal fit.....

Now, when you say "lines", I assume you actually mean "hoses", right? Stainless is not a good material for making hard lines with. I looked up Centric braided stainless hoses for a '02-'07 Impreza (non-STi) on RockAuto, and then punched the part number into Amazon and ordered them up. They come with crush washers, banjo bolts, and retainer clip for the strut bracket. If you have rear discs, you can use the rear hoses for the same application. The included banjo bolt threads right into the caliper, since the hose now comes off the caliper at an angle, you'll have to route it around behind the shock, but you can still clip it into the second mount on the trailing arm. This replaces 2 separate hoses with a short section of hard line in between them. 2017-07-25_02-22-30 by Numbchux, on Flickr If you have drums, swap to discs. IMO, there's no point in upgrading the hoses....

So this is a Loyale? Manual transmission?

It does happen, but with several hoses, and thin-walled steel pipes (one that goes back on the driver's side to the heater hose, and one that goes across in front of the oil pan to the oil cooler) physically near the water pump that are notorious for rusting out. It is more likely a mis-diagnosis. A shop here in town did a water pump on one because they thought the gasket was leaking. Aftermarket pump/gasket leaked worse than the one they took off, so they got to do the job twice to put an OE one in, and the problem all along was the pipe that Gary is talking about that goes back to the heater hose. I don't think I've heard of a head gasket failure on one of these that yielded external coolant leakage (although, an internal failure can push all the coolant out of the overflow...). That said, if they're completely sure of the cause of the problem, just gaskets is likely all it will need. Talk to your local dealer, if they're OK with ordering up chain guides just in case you need them, do that (Subaru, like most manufacturers, is not very forgiving when it comes to returns from the dealership, so depending on the volume that they do, they may not get a full refund if you don't use them). That way you can inspect them when it's apart and not have a ton of down time. If they're not comfortable with that, you'll have to weigh the cost of replacing them preventatively against potential downtime once it's apart (sounds like you might be having a shop fix it, so talk to them).

Yep, the majority of the wiring for the body runs through the LH fender, that will have nothing but loom and tape to protect it now. And the fuse box isn't far away either. I bet you have some nasty corrosion issues in that area...

Yikes. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy%20Outback/1998/ There are good OE wiring diagrams under "Service Manual" there, and some aftermarket ones under "Wiring diagrams" that are laid out a bit differently. both a good source. Get yourself a good multimeter so you can test for voltage, continuity, ground, and resistance. Then pick a symptom, and start tracing it back. I'd probably start with the fan, and start by testing things at the relay. It shouldn't take long to tell if the relay is sticking on, or if it's in the signal side that something is telling the relay to stay on... A friend of mine had a '93 Legacy that had been run for years without a driver's fender liner, and the fuse box (which is in the engine bay, but right above the LF tire) was horribly corroded, and caused a myriad of gremlins like that that didn't seem to have any pattern or connection.

This is the section for questions on a '91 Legacy. But, a '91 Legacy in the US wouldn't have any sort of AWD/4WD selector. The only controls would be the gear shifter (whether it's a manual or automatic, obviously, is different), and the emergency brake lever. A '91 Loyale is an old-gen car, and would have a button to switch between FWD and 4WD.

^Agreed FYI, for future reference. We consider the Loyale to be an Old-Gen car here even though it overlaps with the Legacy and such. If you have future questions, you'll probably get more traffic on the Old-gen section.

They're definitely discontinued from Subaru. When my friend bought his (now my) Brat probably 10 years ago, it came with what was supposed to be the last new OE tank in the country....it's from a hatch. We had to make a plate to span the 6 inches or so between the mounts as the hatch tank is much smaller.

The rear bumper cover on the baja does not wrap around all the way to the wheel well, where it does on the outback. Also, the bumper cover extends further up on the baja under the tail lights than an outback. Maybe it could be made to work, but it would not be pretty. I attached the parts diagrams of both.

I'll attach the full list of vehicles that are expressly effected by the warranty extension. All non-salvage cars are covered through April 21st, 2017 regardless of mileage, after that the engine will be warranted for oil consumption to 8 years/100,000 miles. This does not mean that all the cars before these cutoffs definitely do burn oil, there are a lot of cars out there with no trouble. And it's not really something that will crop up later, most of the effected cars had excessive consumption basically right off the line. It depends on your definition of "fixed". All the 0w20 engines consume more oil than the older cars, but that's considered "normal" by Subaru. They consider losing 1 quart over at least 4k miles is normal. But anything more than a quart in 3600 miles (technically, the oil consumption test is looking for 1/3 quart or more over 1200 miles) will warrant a new engine. Unofficially, I've heard people say that running synth 5w30 makes it much better.

4EAT, but yes.

2011 was the first year for the new engine 2014 was a new body style, and first year for the CVT in the Forester Oil consumption warranty extension on Auto trans Foresters covers all 2011-2013, and 2014 through VIN ending in 529004. That warranty is good through 100k miles (salvage cars are not covered). So if it's under that, you can still get a free engine. We've had more than a few foresters that chew up the rear tires, so look at tire wear, usually it's just an alignment issue. Rear upper control arms have a ball joint that is not serviceable, have to replace the whole arm. So it'd be a good idea to jack up the back and look for play there, they're not really any more prone to failure than any other suspension bushing, but far more expensive to replace.

Not much to say, car's being awesome. Had a headlight burn out, and decided to go for a little upgrade. I bought a set of cheap LED headlight bulbs about a year ago for the fog lights in my Celica, and I was actually very impressed with them. So I bought a set in the H1 variant for this car. These ones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012KF1XDA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 At $40, it was worth a try. Sure beats the $150-200 for most of the name brand equivalents. My main concern was beam pattern, I know that if the point from which the light is emitted is in an even slightly different place, it can throw light where you don't want it. So I took a before picture of the pattern against the inside of the garage door to really analyze things (obviously, I put a functional bulb in it for this comparison): 20170106_190722 by Numbchux, on Flickr I had a bit of a scare when I put the first one in, as the pattern was awful, but when I pulled it apart to put the halogen back in there, I realized the LED wasn't seated correctly. It took some finagling to get the wire hold down under the electrical wires coming out of the side of the bulb so that everything would seat correctly, but then it was great: 20170106_194357 by Numbchux, on Flickr And from down the driveway: 20170106_194211 by Numbchux, on Flickr I'm very happy. More light where I want it, nothing where I don't. Cheap, and required zero modification to the housings. Time will tell how they hold up, but they've done well in my Celica so far....

I did the lower half of my 4Runner in Duplicolor roll-on bedliner years ago. Love it. It's tough, it hides trail damage, it was super easy to apply. Had to go as thin as possible with the coats, as it would run on the vertical surfaces. It did bleed under the painter's tape I had pretty bad. so the edge isn't terribly clean. Right after I did it: 2017-07-25_02-29-26 by Numbchux, on Flickr I've never tried to clean it, so maybe it would come clean with some work, but just being out in the rain is not enough. It pretty much always looks like this: 2017-07-10_10-30-27 by Numbchux, on Flickr

Steel rims are sometimes a half inch or so narrower than the alloy option on the same car...but that's a pretty small difference. If you wanted to go crazy narrow, you'd have to get bespoke aftermarket wheels anyway, in which case it could easily be an alloy. Anecdotal, at best. The steelies I had an issue with last year were new OEM wheels on my mom's '01 Legacy, used as dedicated snows since '09ish. We got them to reseal last year, but they're nasty rusty. I don't think I'll try to use them again. You can find stories either way, so I consider it a wash.

Those can be really tough to get. If it's pre-VVT (I think the '06 Bajas are the only ones that had VVT). You can get pretty cheap SOHC 2.0l JDM engines on ebay and such. We've had very good luck using those, and you probably won't notice the power loss.