Numbchux

Yea, so you'd be looking at this kit: http://sjrlift.com/index.php/catalog/lift-kits/0-4-lift-kit-ej-fits-90-99-detail I would imagine a good mechanic with a lift and such could do the install in a day (6-8 hours). That's assuming they don't have to mess with broken bolts (I don't think Colorado cars have rust issues like we do in MN). And not including waiting on parts. With a lift of that style, the engine/transmission is lowered 3" in relation to the body. So everything that goes between them will be effected. Things like radiator hoses, A/C hoses, etc. These are the kinds of things that most shops don't want to deal with, as it means down time with their hoist tied up and no pay for it (or they charge you the labor rate for the down time...). Yes, your pitch stopper and intake will be an issue as well, but so would the stock one. If you're paying to have it done, you're probably better off getting just a 2". I'm sure Scott @ SJR could make 2" strut top spacers for a macpherson Subaru, even though they're not specifically listed on the site. Something also to consider. In order to run a larger diameter tire, you'll need to swap for Forester struts, which will give you some lift as well.

Yep, aftermarket companies don't bother making a separate part without the trans cooler. They usually come capped. It's a sealed cooler, so it doesn't "need" to be capped, but it's certainly a good idea to keep crap out of there. Lots of ways to get caps, Dorman makes a multi-pack of different sized caps that can usually be had in the "Help" section of most auto parts stores for a few bucks.

It will depend entirely on what car you are lifting, and which kit you are using (basically how much lift, but sometimes there are different options at the same height).

Sounds like you need to lower the diff to lessen the angles on the axles.

Overdue Update. Lots of miles on it. It's been working hard as moving van out to our new house: 20160724_170102 by Numbchux, on Flickr Parked at the new house, less than an hour after we closed: 20160810_142540 by Numbchux, on Flickr One of many overloaded trips: 20161107_072311 by Numbchux, on Flickr Headlight restoration: 2017-07-03_01-55-16 by Numbchux, on Flickr Made a world of difference. This car is so much easier to drive at night 2017-07-21_03-52-56 by Numbchux, on Flickr 215/65r16 Nokian Hakka R2s on '98 Forester 16x6.5+48s (About .5" taller than the stock 225/60r16s) 2017-07-21_03-53-24 by Numbchux, on Flickr

Well, there's really only a couple things to be aware of. The length of the bar. Basically, measure the width of the area in which you want to mount the bar (roof rack, between the headlights, etc.). You'll probably want to find a technical drawing or specifications list that shows the actual outer dimensions of the light bar, to make sure it fits without interfering with anything (for example, a company *might* list a bar as being 24", but they're talking about the actual lens length, by the time you get the housing, and sometimes some mounting hardware on the side, they might be 2 or 3" longer). You'll also want to choose what style light you want. There are different light patterns that function differently. Pencil, Spot, Driving, Flood, Fog. Pencil is not pictured, but it's even more pronounced than spot. These are also sometimes represented by a beam angle (10*-90*, pencil through fog respectively). Most larger light bars (and some of the smaller ones) use a combination of 2 of those styles, so some of the LED cells will light up the road long in front of you, and some of them will light up the ditches better. You'll want to think about the driving you typically do, and your personal preferences on what style light you want. I just ordered a pair of small flood lights from AuxBeam for my lawn tractor/snow blower, and I intend to mount them angled out, so they really light up a large area in front and around the tractor. Armed with those 2 pieces of information (I can't recommend one particular model, as I don't own a Forester to measure, and I don't know what style you want). You should be able to narrow the list down considerably. There will likely be different brightness ones that meet the same dimensions, and that just comes down to what you're willing to pay. Auxbeam makes this cool Universal mount, that sandwiches behind your license plate, so you don't have to fabricate any mounts, or drill any new holes. https://www.auxbeam.com/led-light-bar-mounts/mounts-others/85619581 They also make these wiring kits, that include a relay, fuse, and switch to get everything working correctly with minimal effort. https://www.auxbeam.com/accessories/Led-Light-Wirings/77707706

They were on sale from one of our suppliers, $10 off regular price. I looked at a few sizes, and they were pretty comparable to Blizzaks and X-ices in most, but for some reason, the Hakkas were much cheaper than almost every other snow tire in a 215/65r16 (maybe a more common size in Finland?). So I saved some money by putting in some research time. Because Nokians are not carried by nearly as many shops as most, there's less competition, so the prices can be higher. But we deal with 2 suppliers for them (both local to the midwest...), and the prices tend to be comparable to Blizzaks and X-ices.

http://www.rigidindustries.com/ is probably the most popular high-quality light bar company. But they're expensive. https://www.gtrlighting.com/products/led/off-road-lights makes some good stuff, too. I have experience with their LED headlight bulb replacements, but not with their bars. I'm currently looking at https://www.auxbeam.com for some of my projects. They seem to be a good balance of cost and quality (no, definitely not the same quality as Rigid, but also better than most of the really cheap ebay stuff).

Yes, carefully inspect the surface that the cams ride on. It's aluminum, and if shavings got in there, it can chew up the head and cause all kinds of problems.

Agreed. What kind of adjustment are you looking for? Ride height? Damping? Camber? Toe? How was it lifted? If the lift was done correctly, it should not dog track, and the toe should all still be adjustable with OE parts (although the toe adjustment is frequently rusted solid in this part of the world, and requires cutting out and replacing some hardware).

This It sounds like your ECU is not powering on. Start with checking all the fuses. Then get a multimeter or test light out, and your ECU pinout, and check all the power supply wires for power. If it comes down to a new ECU. It DEFINITELY has to be for a WRX, not just an Impreza. I know that only the 02 WRX AT ECU is identical to yours, but it's possible that other 2.0l GD WRX ones could work, and maybe even STi.

Snow tires are usually comparable price to a decent all-season. I just bought Nokian Hakka R2s (The best non-studded ice tire money can buy IMHO) for our '04 Outback for about $100 ea. That's all kinds of reasonable. I spent about 3 hours in the last couple days with the cruise set at about 75 mph on those tires. So yes, speed is just fine. The main concern is wear, but the softer tread compound of a snow tire can yield some unpleasant side effects in warmer weather. Slightly decreased traction on dry pavement, and a little less steering feel. But pretty minor. That said, there is another option. The Nokian Nordman WR or WRG3. IMO the best compromise between All-year driveability and treadwear, and winter traction. In a 225/60r16 (which I think is the size you need). We would sell the Nordman WR (part #429171) for $90.99, and the WRG3 (#428637) for $101.99. Now, through our usual Nokian supplier, the WR is more available, but when I google the part numbers it looks like the opposite is generally true through other sources. But with a little research, you should be able to find a Nokian tire dealer local to you that can get them.

I believe it should. The thing to look for, is if it's a VVT engine or not. Off the top of my head, I think VVT started with 2006.

Beating the carp out of my Loyale with the EJ22e and no pitch stopper...This was probably 20-30k after the swap was done. I took that motor out about 60k after the swap (and over 250k on original motor mounts), and they were not broken. This was with a FT4WD transmission, but I drove it for about a year (10-15k) in FWD. That said, it's very possible that drivetrain movement is what's causing the issue. It's not impossible for motor mounts to break... Is this an EA81 or EA82 car? Transmission?

That's not the only thing left. There are many things that can cause the ECU not to try to start the car (you're diagnostic was correct, though, in ruling that it is not the fuel pump relay, or, at least, not just the relay). I've seen a bad crank sensor cause the ECU not to prime. But don't try to guess the old fashioned way, get a code reader plugged into it (frequently can be rented from an auto parts store, I have a bluetooth OBD II dongle that cost less than $20 and allows me to use my phone). See if the ECU is powering up at all (if you can connect to it), then see if there are any trouble codes, and then monitor the rpms and crank it over. You have a lot of steps before you need to buy a new ECU.

Good find! Keep an eye on the bubbling coolant. Might be early head gasket signs. FYI, there's a TSB for the throttle position sensor that can cause rough shifting, even without throwing a code. I replaced it on mine, and it helped (although didn't solve the rough shifting). 11-80-06157652.pdf

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No, the ECU is not grounded through it's mounting bolts I don't see how cutting one wire and soldering it back together could cause failure. Did you unplug anything else during the project? Get your hands on a code reader, and see if you can communicate with the ECU. See if there are any diagnostic codes. (I assume you should still have an OBD II port on canadian cars).

Yep, the one I had had no 4th gear. When you got going fast enough to try to shift into 4th gear, it would just free rev like it was in neutral. Pull it down into 3rd, and it was good to go.

Wet sanding and Urethane, per this write-up http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/514132-post9.html 2017-07-03_01-55-16 by Numbchux, on Flickr 2017-07-21_03-52-56 by Numbchux, on Flickr

I think the next thing to do is rent a set of noid lights (I've gotten them from AutoZone for a refundable deposit). Connect one to the wires going to the injector, and turn it over. That will tell you if it's a fuel injection issue, or a physical fuel flow issue. If the light flashes, and you have adequate fuel pressure to the throttle body, it's a clogged or stuck injector.

I just stumbled across this write-up. Looks awesome, and I've seen him posting since then that they're still looking great. I intend to do this on our Outback this weekend. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/53099-my-diy-fx-r-projector-headlight-retrofit.html#post514132

I thought mine was less than that, but it was the cheapest one at HF when I bought it, and I don't see one for less.... Mine is plenty, I've probably done a dozen subaru wheel bearings. Lots of bushings, as well as some bearings and such. I've had a couple things fight me, but I opted to apply heat before maxing out the equipment. 12 Tons is a lot!

I see nothing in the OE catalog listing 15" wheels for '08-'14 Impreza. But, your '08 should have the 276mm front brakes, which should clear any subaru 15" wheel just fine. So yea, any 15" or larger Subaru 5x100 (All SVXs, Tribecas, '05+ STi, '14+ WRX, and '15+ Legacy/Outback are all 5x114.3) wheel should fit just fine on the car. I can't speak at all to wheel cover fitment, I've never bothered. Many Legacies and Outbacks run a +48mm offset wheel, which will stick out a bit more, but shouldn't be an issue as long as your tires are the same outer diameter as stock.

Yep, optional cassette player. I've never compared them directly, but I bet it's the same one used in the '90s for the optional CD player, which I used to add a cheap AUX input. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158107-i-added-an-aux-input-to-my-stock-97-radio/