Numbchux

Yep, you'll need a turbo crossmember and sway bar to clear the up-pipe (not the oil pan). Steering rack is the same. Turbo legacy is a direct swap, of course. The GG one can be used, but the tabs where the control arms meet the crossmember are a bit wider, so you'll have to shim them for the older gen arms. Not a big deal. If your Legacy does not have an LSD (I think only the Turbo's did), you should be able to just use those axles. Otherwise you can use the GG rear axles (note, the GD [sedan] axles are too long for the narrower Legacy chassis), the only thing to watch for there, is ABS tone wheel. But I think on the Legacy (if it even has ABS) that would be bolted to the hub, not pressed onto the outer CV cup.

Yep, I would assume 2.2 engine/intake manifold and 2.5 wiring, electronics (including the coil pack). I did a 94 2.2 into a 96 Outback years ago, and that's how I did it. Worked great.

The Japanese economy was booming in the '80s, and crashed in the early-'90s, and that really shows in the cars. The 2nd gens were just reheated 1st gens, as they did not have any money for real devolopment. IMHO, they feel like tin cans, and the interior feels very cheap and poorly made (little things like the gauge clusters being largely front-lit, instead of back lit). They were forced to spend some money on the ECU and fuel injection system to comply with OBDII for 1996, which makes diagnosing those engines a lot easier. But I still think I'd prefer 1st gen to 2nd. That said, I MASSIVELY prefer a 3rd gen Legacy (specifically, the Outback based on it. I have 6 of them, 7 including the Baja). I have an '01 Forester (last year of the late '90s generation) with just under 100k miles on it and in phenomenal mechanical condition, it will be sold soon. Getting out of a '99 Outback and into a '00 feels like getting out of a Corolla and into a Lexus LS. But the biggest thing. These things are all in the neighborhood of 25 years old. How it was stored/used/cared for will have about 50x more affect on how reliable it will be going forward, than what it was like new, or any generalization any of us can make. $5k is a decent budget, even in this crazy market. Look for a nice clean example that's been loved and maintained. Inspect it thoroughly (or have it inspected), and you'll have years of use to come.

I've never seen anyone reflash the obdi EJ ECUs, there have been a few things available for the SVX, but I think those are all off the shelf tunes, and not tuneable. You would have to remove (desolder, most likely, although you could probably install a socket to make it easier to do again in the future) the EEPROM chip from the ECU board and put it into a reader/burner. Download the raw code. Decode it. Recode it. Burn the new code to the chip. and then reinstall it. Every time you want to make a change. Yuck. With the cost of a Speeduino or Megasquirt these days (and even a speedy is likely considerably more powerful than a 30 year old factory ECU), I don't think any of that makes any sense.

Yep, 85-87 EA82s had amber lighting, and '87.5+ had green. Since the EA81 continued in the Brat and 3-door hatch through '87 here in the US (and a lot later in other markets), it's possible the changeover was at the same time in EA81s, and yours doesn't have an original clock (notorious for cracking solder joints, so it's not uncommon to not have the original). It's been a long time since I had a battery in my Brat ('84), but I thought it was amber....

Check the code on the transmission by the starter. You can usually google that code and find a listing that will tell you the gear ratio. I would have guessed a 5MT 4WD DR to be a 3.9, but 3.7 is certainly possible.

Yep, I'm sure that's exactly what GD is recommending, and I would, as well. The OEM service intervals don't mention changing CVT fluid, but there have been more than a few failures on these. My mom's 2012 Impreza is over 200k miles on the original CVT. She drives it like a little old lady, but also we've change CVT and diff fluids a few times. The engine treatment, fuel system cleaner, induction cleaning, etc. is unnecessary expense, and the companies that sell those products, likely have some sort of cash kickback to the people at the shop for selling it.

I hate using hardware store bolts. At the very least, they will have the wrong size head. The dealership here in town stocks pinch bolts. I'd just get it from them. Also, price out the ball joint from them. I've had HORRIBLE experiences with aftermarket ball joints, and the OEM ones aren't expensive.

I saw the screen name, and assumed someone had bumped an ancient thread, lol. Still playing with '6s, huh?

I believe the VIN should be stamped on the side of the case (or, many places on the car). Bring that to your dealership, or online parts source (I like www.partsouq.com) and look them up. Once you get it put back together, change the gear oil in there occasionally. That s*** looks nasty! Over 200k on my mom's 2012 Impreza. Original engine and transmission. We'll probably do it's 4th CVT and Gear Oil change here pretty soon. It does rev up higher than I'd like, but it's a 2.0, it has no torque.

Anything is possible, but that is the major structural member of the car that is rusted out. It's going to require considerable time and patience to fabricate new frame rails, and seal everything up. Not to mention the fact that I'm sure this is just the tip of the iceberg (maybe it's the worst of it, but I bet there's a lot more). Looks like the rocker is gone. If you're doing it yourself, looking for a project to fill up your free time, knock yourself out. If you're paying someone to do it. It'd be far cheaper to have a solid shell shipped to you from another part of the country.

From the pictures, it looks correctly installed. I drove thousands of miles in my '88 with similar geometry (not an EJ swap, though). Is your pitch stopper hooked up? I'm curious about "There is a bit of space on the tranny cross member that I had to use a spacer for."

Sounds very much like the issue we were having with our 04 Outback VDC last summer. Slow temperature creep under load. A very thorough cooling flush solved it. 2 chemical flush treatments with a drain/fill. And back flushed the engine, radiator and heater core independently with water. While the radiator was out, I used cleaner and hose to rinse any dirt and debris out of the outside of the radiator and condenser cores. The hot lower hose is a good sign, as it means you have circulation. But it's just not getting rid of the heat.

^Excellent post right there! I've heard of the regulator/bypass spring in the oil pump getting weak and allowing oil pressure to bleed off, which seems plausible but I've never seen it. And absolutely might be an anecdote, where someone replaced an oil pump and it seemed to get better, but it may not have made it to it's next oil change.

If it's a USDM engine, the VIN of it's donor vehicle will be down on the RH side of the block, right next to the flange for the transmission bellhousing. There's a flat spot there, and it's stamped in there. It's very difficult to see with the engine in the car, but I have been able to sneak a phone down in there and take a picture of it. Otherwise, as Bennie said, under the alternator will be the basic engine code, which just tells you the displacement. But that's a start.

I have had a leaking axle boot sling grease onto the exhaust, which can cause a smell without actually dripping anything on the ground. Beyond that, it could be just about anything. IIRC the catalytic converter is right up under the engine on those, so even the slightest drip will end up on a very hot exhaust component and burn off. Will likely have to remove the under tray, and look around with a good flash light to find evidence of the leakage.

Yea, the pressure regulator in the oil pump can get weak and stick causing low pressure. Light flickering while drive it means you have single digits psi. NOT GOOD. That's alarming at an idle....Either that, or the clearances on your engine are getting so loose and the oil is blowing out faster than the pump can supply. I think it was 2002 they switched from the 9mm to the 7mm rotor. I measured the one in my '00 Outback, and it was 9mm. Basically everything in the '90s had the 9mm, but rumor has it the 2.2 ones were set at a lower pressure. 10mm is WRX 11mm is STi Some JDM models have 12mm, and I think there's an aftermarket one that's 12, maybe a 13. 9 or 10mm is good. I got a deal on an 11mm one locally, and used that on my '00 Outback. In theory, this means the bypass will be open more, which can heat the oil and pull more out of the pan. But the way I drive and this climate, I'm not concerned about heat, and I check the oil level every time I fill up. Quick google search turned up this page, which shows the OEM part numbers for 10, 11 and 12mm. https://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/subaru-oil-pumps

Since this is another one of those accounts that just posts once with a strange link in the middle and never responds, I imagine he doesn't care.

Legacy chassis has a longer wheelbase, and therefore a longer driveshaft. There is no difference in carrier height between Legacy and Outback. I would assume none between Impreza/Forester, or that it would be negligible, but I haven't played with Imprezas at all. Any impreza, 93-07 with the same transmission will definitely work. There are some differences in them (older ones have 3 Ujoints, newer have a DOJ in the center, etc.), but they are interchangeable. They all use the same Ujoint, so there isn't a heavier duty factory option.

My last 2 aftermarket ball joints came in a Moog box. They were both garbage in about a year....

Clunking is usually sway links or bushings. But something is shifting. Get under there with a pry bar and find it. What brand suspension parts were used?

Off the top of my head, I thought '98 was the old style, but I'm not completely sure. Punch the VIN on www.partsouq.com to see what it came with from the factory. Best is to pull the cover and see. If it's the new style, try for a '99. Only difference should be the tensioner.

No. Dealer installed accessory

I'm guessing an exhaust heat shield. They will only vibrate at certain rpms, and idle in gear is just right. Thump the exhaust in a few places and see if you can hear anything.

Yep, spring clamp no longer does it. Screw clamp puts more force on it, and might just be enough to help. It's not the correct fix, for sure. But a new hose is surprisingly expensive for low pressure hose, so a clamp usually does it.