Numbchux

That Moog one is $22+shipping OEM is $35+shipping https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/parts/subaru-tie-rod-complete-gear-box~34140fc000.html 10 times the quality, for less than twice the price.

Don't worry about it. The original post is almost a year old, and the poster hasn't logged in since March. I don't think it matters.

Sure doesn't make sense that the knock sensor code would effect the idle. But, it'll cause it's own issues. Might as well fix that issue first. Inspect the coolant temp sensor wiring while you're poking around.

Moog is just another sticker on Federal Mogul parts. Suspension companies buy and sell from different suppliers. Some are better, some are not. But there's no consistency.

I believe that engine should be speed density (MAP sensor, no MAF), and therefore shouldn't be that sensitive to leaks before the throttle body. IAC is built into the throttle body, no separate hose for that. What did you disconnect/remove to access the plugs? I generally remove the washer reservoir on the LH side, and airbox on the RH. The throttle cables (main and cruise) run right over the plugs on the LH side, you sure you didn't shove them out of the way and they got hung up somewhere? Any trouble codes? Confirmed, or pending? What does the TPS signal and coolant temp look like? How did the knock sensor wire get damaged? Was there something tugging/chafing on it? The coolant temp sensor is in that area, too... The symptoms kind of sound like a sticking IAC valve. Although I don't think I've ever heard of that on these before. And the timing would have to have been a complete coincidence, which is unlikely.+ I do agree that Iridium is not ideal for your car, but shouldn't cause any problems.

FB engines got the timing chain. 2011 in the Forester, 2012 Impreza, and 2013 Leg/OBK. And it was those early ones that had the class-action lawsuit leading to extended warranty coverage to get a new shortblock. I believe the lawsuit covered through MY 2015, but many newer than that were getting warranty shortblocks for the same reason. The Foresters did not have an oil level sensor/indicator. So if the owners did not check their oil (maybe I won't if I ever have a new car, too...), the first indication was low oil pressure warning light, at which point, it's really too late. So it's not uncommon to see Foresters with blown engines. The others did have a low oil level warning light, which helped, considerably. My mom's 2012 Impreza is knocking on the door of 200k miles, with the original engine. She has to add about 1-1.5 quarts between changes. Hers is a salvage, so was not eligible for the extended warranty, but I don't think the consumption would have been enough to get a free engine, anyway.

Factory 15" wheels will not clear the factory brakes on that car. You can swap to the 276mm rotors and matching calipers. You can grind the calipers (I've done this twice). Or you can use a gravel-style aftermarket 15" wheel (Team Dynamic, Braid, Method, Sparco, etc. etc.).

When I worked at the dealership, we frequently handed out the gasket for the duty C solenoid, a little pipe in the tailhousing, as well as the clutches, housing gasket and output seal. I don't remember exactly the symptoms, but I know the fluid from the solenoid and clutches could leak down and cause some symptoms (usually eventually worn clutches). If you want it done right the first time. Likely that whole list from Subaru, as well as some new HP fluid and OEM filter.

Summit probably isn't your best bet for parts for this car. Most of us use RockAuto.com these days. It can sometimes be a little hazardous finding parts for these cars, as the naming structure isn't terribly clear ("GL" was used on many body styles, with overlapping years), but '88 and '89 are the easiest, here in the US. But when you can, look for measurements and verify them. Also, in 88, yours should be an EA82, which is usually listed as an OHC engine, (EA81 was OHV, but is a different body style with very few parts directly interchangeable).

I much prefer SOHC ('99/00+) 2.5s to the DOHC. They're more common, simpler, and the standard HG failure is an oil leak, not really a big deal. I know you said -2003, although I'm not sure why, there's no major change on almost any model between 2003 and 2004 (Impreza got different lights...). 2004 and 2005 LEG/OBK could have the EJ259 california engine, mechanically very similar to an EJ251, but completely different electronics, including drive-by-wire. These are not necessarily problematic, but they're rare, which can make things difficult when it comes to diagnosis and parts replacement. I wouldn't turn down the right deal on one, but it would give me pause. I love the EZ30, I have 4 01-04 H6 Outbacks, including both of our daily drivers right now. By far my favorite Subaru (for a daily, anyway).

Generally, these are lifted by adding a spacer to the top or bottom of the factory strut. Occasionally, people have used a stiffer spring. But good chance that if you get new EA82 4WD struts, and reuse your springs, you'll be pretty close to where you started.

OBDII was federally-mandated for 1996. That's the one that is universal across all makes and models of gasoline vehicles in the US ever since, and you can buy a $15 bluetooth dongle to read codes and live data from your phone, or use a ScanGauge, or hundreds of other options. Some Subarus (I think all 2.2s) were OBDII compatible in 1995. But yea, vehicles before that still had On Board Diagnostics (OBD), and the ability to store and pull Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs), and even read live data with the right reader (not universal). All things being equal, OBDII is great. But we're talking about 25 year old cars, now. So a 1994 that's been well maintained will be a much better buy than a 1996 that's been neglected.

He's talking about flushing any debris from your old transmission out of the transmission cooler so it doesn't damage the "new" transmission. And, that if it's a diff failure, the ATF should not be contaminated. But better safe than sorry. Subaru makes a transmission cooler flush product, an aerosol can with a hose to flush anything out of there for the same reason. Any dealer will have it, as they have to use it with every warranty transmission replacement.

High mileage is 290k, IMO. I would absolutely rather use a 150k mile USDM 4EAT than a 60k mile one that's been shipped overseas. I did buy an EJ201 on Ebay, but only because good EJ251s are not cheap or easy to come buy. Just my $.02 Most junkyards only offer a labor warranty to a shop, not to a private buyer.

USDM 4EATs are generally very reliable. I would much prefer to buy a used one locally than from an importer. $1500 installed is a good price, especially if that includes a warranty (most junkyards will offer a parts and labor warranty on major components to shops that they work with a lot). I see several on car-part near me for ~$500-800.

@idosubaru is exactly right. You'll have to tear it down to take the timing belt off, but the crank will clean up. Tighten it up as tight as you can. Jam something in the flexplate/flywheel, and tighten that bolt as hard as you can. I've said many times the key is not necessary once assembled, but I would think it would be annoying to get it lined up without (I've never tried it). So I've replaced it on the couple that I've done. I've also seen enough of these where the bolt has come loose, but the key has briefly kept it from jumping time. Parts aren't terribly unique. There are a couple different crank sprockets, as they have the teeth on the backside for the crank sensor. There's a 6 or 7 tooth one, and a ~35 tooth one. Balancers are basically all identical. No. The tow bar will not fit between an Impreza and Liberty/Legacy.

I definitely would have replaced that tensioner. It has a hydraulic damper in it, which can leak and fail. I have had a Gates tensioner blow the damper and just operate from the spring, and it would slam closed and sounded like an engine knock. I can't believe it didn't jump timing.

That's interesting that the interchange only shows 2000. I'm not aware of any differences between 2000, and 01-03. If I had a 2000 that needed a transmission, and I had an 01-03 one, I would put it in....

Possible, but unlikely. More commonly it's a wiring issue. Key on, engine not running, the check engine light should be on. If this doesn't happen, 99% of the time the ECU is not being turned on (getting all the power/ground that it needs). If you're at your whit's end. Spending some money to modernize the system wouldn't be a bad idea. But it's a big job to get it installed and tuned.

04 was a revision, and, from what I understand, the valve body changed, so it will not work correctly with the older TCU. 4-cyl and H6 have different gear ratios. If you just punch in your car on car-part.com, it'll show you junkyard listings for compatible parts.

The VTD is a far superior AWD system, and while they use the same clutches to actuate it as MPT, when they are actuated is different. The post I linked is a guy that used the VTD mechanicals with an MTD system. He talks about using the FWD fuse to change how it operates. I think he's likely relying on the mechanical function of the diff, and the electronic LSD function is not likely working (like using a DCCD center diff without a controller). But I'm not sure exactly.

This thread mentions putting a VTD center diff housing on a 2006 MPT transmission. Not really specific on the details, but one picture of the different parts, and some parts lists. https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2006-mpt-to-vtd-conversion.37441/ I don't think I'd bother. '01-'03 LL Beans are not rare. Just get the correct transmission and swap it in.

Still have to disassemble the strut assembly to swap strut mount. Honestly, from what it sounds, I'd probably just use the Impreza ones. They're not correct, but they're likely better than what you have, or any of the cheap garbage you're looking at. Yes, you'll have to swap the strut mounts, but you could buy a pair of aftermarket mounts and rent a spring compressor or even pay a shop to swap them for cheap.

No gasket. FIPG. Subaru only sells it in caulking tubes, which is way too big. I do like Hondabond or Toyota Black, which both are available in smaller tubes. Otherwise, the "Right Stuff"

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/fog-light-modification-how-to.519679/unread This is slightly different with H6 cars, if that's what you have. But should give you an idea.