90legacywagon

I just took my 2005 OBW (57,000 miles) into the dealer today. I started hearing low humming sounds from the rear, and over the course of a month it slowly progressed to the sound a truck makes with aggressive oversized tires. I also started noticing it was a little harder to keep the car straight...almost like a strong wind blowing perpendicular to the car while on the highway at all times. Today the dealer replaced both rear wheel bearings, at no charge, covered under a 100k extended warranty Subaru is offering specifically for the wheel bearing issue. It was also idling rough/noisy...so they re-flashed the computer. I'll pick it up tomorrow and see if what they did solves the issues.

That is my dilemma...If I pull the torque converter out with the engine, won't I still have the same problem? How will I get the engine off of the torque converter if it doesn't turn? If I pull out the engine and transmission, I guess I could save the transmission, and then reinstall it with a different torque converter and engine....?

the pawn shop is the way to go. i picked up a junky little ryobi sawzall at a pawn shop last year for 30-40 bucks. the battery was toast so i picked up two new batteries and its been working great ever since.

thanks for the tips on the ej22's...I saw that one in Craigslist as well. I've been trying to buy an engine from Subex off this forum but I'm a little more concerned at this point that I will not be able to get the engine out.

to take out the spark plugs and suck out the fuel when you let fuel go into your cylinder while changing fuel injectors...see the hole in the block? This is an update to a thread I posted last year, although last year I thought it was the intake manifold and was less concerned. I have a question related to this problem...I cannot get the engine out. It is seized up, and I cannot turn the crankshaft to get to the bolts in the torque converter service hole. I have taken the spark plugs out, filled the cylinders will PB blaster. It will not turn. I thought it was starting to turn the other day, so I gave it a pull and broke the bolt head off of the crankshaft. I then tried using a giant pipe wrench to turn the crankshaft sprocket gear and it broke off. I can still get a grip on the slick bare crankshaft but do y'all think it is possible that whatever happened to cause the block to explode like that jammed something up inside so much that I will never be able to turn the crankshaft? Any suggestions?

thanks--

so if i put a 95 2.2 in a 90, and plan on using the old intake manifold and sensors from the 90 model engine, my speedo should still read the same?

yesterday i could swear I removed two bolts from the exhaust manifold on the 90 ej22. maybe i'm not remembering correctly. it was a long day. thanks for your input 360. i will look again.

The 90 is dual. I finally talked to the guy selling the 95 ej22..he says its dual but has a three bolt pattern. My 90 only has two bolts.

i just noticed subieman posted this about a similar question: "The intake manifold may be able to be swapped over to the "new block, but depending of the port layout of the heads, you may not be able to. The exhaust ports chaned in 1995. the earlier EJ22's had dual exhaust ports feeding the Y pipe headers. Post-95 EJ22's had single port headers. a bit of cutting, flaring and welding may let you adapt the headers." Why would I need to change over the intake manifold? I guess I will need to look at the 95 EJ22 to see if it has dual exhaust ports, as my 90 does.

thanks for the input john. yes, they are both automatics.

So I blew up my pristine 1990 EJ22 with less than 100k through a very, very stupid 3 second mistake which I posted on this forum about a year ago. I have finally pulled the engine, and will post pics of the destruction soon. Subaru engines this old aren't easy come by on a Texas island, but I have found a 1995 2.2 liter up in Dallas. I do not have time for rebuilds, modifications, etc. Can anyone tell me--Will I be able to drop the 1995 engine in, no problem? Are all bolt positions/wiring the same? Thanks in advance for any feedback.

What is a JL Cleansweep option? I was just thinking about this issue a couple of days ago. I have a 2005 outback and the radio and a/c controls all fit into and behind a single panel. Outfitting this thing with an aftermarket radio does not appear to be an option. There's no aux jack, and no tape deck. I would be interested in learning how a satellite radio adapter would work for this car.

I didn't notice it on my test drives. Of course, I am used to older cars with problems and this newer car is like a dream-ride compared to anything else I've driven in a while. I'm starting to think this car is just LOUD at idle. It performs very well and smooth at high RPMs. It does seem to idle at low RPM's for a 4 cylinder though..idles at about 500 RPMs, sometimes less with the a/c kicks on. Like I said, that 2002ish baja sounded just like my car. The weird diesel-ish knock occurs at any time, whether the car is cold or not. From what I have read, the piston slap subaru problem should not be an issue with this year model. The "knock" is not so loud that it would be easily noticeable at first. That's why I didn't notice it before I bought the car. Overall though, the car perform like new.

The oil looks fine. It is still under their 30 day warranty so I am going to take it in to see if they'll give it a tune-up. The "diesel" sound is not really audible from outside the car, it is only when I am in the car that I hear a low, knocking sound like a diesel. However, outside the car, the engine noise just seems to be quite a bit louder than a car of this age should have. By the way I was next to a 2002ish Subaru Baja the other day at the gas station and it also sounded really loud at idle. Not like loud exhaust, but loud ENGINE noise. Could this be a Subaru characteristic?