PoorManzImpreza

What happened? Was loving this build. Kaz

There is play in those three holes that control the rear alignment both camber and toe.. Caboobaroo (Russ) is the resident EA alignment expert.. HTH Kaz

wow almost done! can we get a closer look at your tranny mount to give pre 87.5 model ppl some ej tranny swap inspiration? also what was the part number on that momo steering wheel hub? Kaz

MY GOD...... :burnout: I'm just stunned by how good this build is coming along.. fyi from all that I've researched the AWIC pump should be on the lowest side; ie near the bottom feed of the radiator.. I'm really looking forward to seeing this run.. Kaz

looks like it came from the factory with DCCD Kaz

:slobber::slobber::slobber::slobber::slobber:.... This is my dream project.. absolutly AMAZING...just AMAZING.... I have the same brakes on my 89 wagon, you'll love them! I look forward to seeing this in action. Kaz

Actually its ej20 that has the same bore as ea82/81 but no other dimension will match; not wrist pin diameter nor position.. Hth Kaz

Crap that's bad news.. Kaz

+1

Rob, Awesome finally dumped the ea82..looking good so far only seen that kinda camshaft damage in a hit car.. Lol my conversion is slower than Russ right now lol But I'm gonna b a couple steps behind suberdave..his will b an sti l-series wagon mine will b a jdm wrx l-series wagon (but with more rust).. Anyway it looks good, keep us posted Kaz

:slobber::slobber: and w00d! awesome Dave my MoFo hero.. Kaz

There are many brands but none as good as the OE NTN, your best bet is to find some ej axles with the right spline count on the shaft (22 BTW) and knock the outers off usually anything marked 82 is the business. I've used outers from GCK, GLO, Shibumi there are MANY manufacturers, If they manufacture a complete axle they usually have the Bell Joint (outer) seperately. HTH Kaz

'Tex, How do u like the Ksports? Kaz

yeah the pipe trick is hit or miss sometimes it just doesn't do the trick but u can still cut the outer jount off with an angle grinder..just have to be very careful not to cut the splines...I've had more success with oem NTN axles using the pipe trick and variants and less success with rebuilds/aftermarket. I have seen outboard joints in many spline varieties, three variations for ea/er cars with oe stamps of 82, 87, 95 and 100. In ej cars the numbering conventions are generally the same, but it gets complicated as there are now fine splined and coarse splined versions, for example gd wrx axles even though the shaft looks nice and fat the actual joints are in the 82 size but are completely incompatible with anything sized 82 in ea/er 'cuz there are fine splined and ea/er is coarse splined. I took two of my axle shafts to an aftermarket parts supplier here, one shaft was out of a 4wd 4eat ea82 turbo car, the other was out of a carbed ea82 auto fwd the turbo car had 95 on the joints and 25 spline inboard DOJs. The fwd car had 82 on the joints and had 23 spline DOJs. My parts store had BOTH types of outboard EJ joints in stock Pics: fwd on top turbo below turbo on left: some ej GD wrx on top 4eat Legacy below, you can see both are fine splined and you can also see the variation in axle diameter on the gd axle: Now connecting this on topic most ea81 axles are the 82 coarse spline variety.. I build custom axles using ea82 fwd inboard and shaft and ej outers the same can be done with ea81 parts.. This is what the guys in aussieland have been doing for years.. HTH Kaz

If your car is awd (it should be) you require parts from an awd car, same for 2wd requiring parts from a 2wd. The easiest way to do the swap is to exchange the rear knuckle assemblies from the rear disc equiped car. This is the assembly that the trailing arm lateral links and strut bolts to. Leave the ebrake cables hooked up to the knuckle assemblies and disconnect them at the e-brake handle. Be carefull of the long bolt that secures the knuckle assembly to the two lateral links, this bolt has a habit of being rusted in place in salt prone areas. I know you can swap the gc parts onto a gd car but I dunno if the ebrake cables are the same length so you might want to stick with a parts car that shares the same chassis. You will also require the soft brake line bolted between the body hard line and the caliper... It is an easy swap with the right tools.. Just be methodical and ensure you are getting good parts from your donor car..nothing like doing a swap like this and finding out the donor car had bad bearings.. I would also consider grabbing the front brakes from your donor as well. Braking is a carefully balanced system and the rs front brakes will b bigger than yours. You'll need the front calipers and front rotors. Ensure that whatever wheels you have will clear the rs brakes by test fitting them on the donor befor swapping.. HTH Kaz

...and when you get board of the VF ;-) http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1934499 Kaz

hmm I guess that explains why the crossbred kit has spacers that fit on the rack to prevent just this event..good to know.. thanks for clarifying Kaz

is that with full lock to lock as in it interferes when the vehicle is on the ground at ride height and you turn the wheel full lock? Kaz

Glad to see your making progress Russ this will be awesome when done! Kaz

The ej205 is an obd2 motor, thus it has way more wiring than an obd1 motor..the mass aiflow sensor is NOT integrated into the throttle body, the IAC is though. there are two major types of ej205: the 99-2001 version (gc chassis) and the post 2001 (gd chassis). Since you describe coil on plug I'll assume it's a post 2001 205. The MAF sensor is located in the intake tract just after the air filter box. This swap is still very doable but you NEED the 205 wiring diagram as well as the rx diagrams which are both available online via FSM downloads(there are partial 89 manuals lurking as well as full 88xt manuals and full 2004 STi FSM google does wonders)..What year RX is it? Are you using the RX gearbox? If yes, I'd reconsider as I don't think any ea clutch is gonna hold up unless you have it custom build. Be methodical and take pictures label everything and trim carefully. I advise a solder joint then rtv then heatshrink tubing for all wire junctions it is time consuming but it will save you from wiring gremlins in the long run and make your joints last as long as the wire. Good luck and let us know how it goes HTH Kaz

more like: :slobber::slobber: Kaz

Very sweet! Love how stock it looks outside Kaz

Ok my 2 cents if you have the means please do yourself a favor and go 5 lug with Legacy/Impreza knuckles on the front it opens up a world of suspension options. Check out suberdave's GL-10 @ http://www.suberdave.com/subaru/Leone/index.htm for an example. Evan the stuff 'Chux was working on in his suspension thread was related to the back of the car as his car was 5 lugged. Whatever options you choose Good luck and happy Handling with your project. Kaz

Not 100% relevant, but I have a legacy 15/16th Master on my ea82. While this was fantastic on the stock disc all around car I have since upgraded to FHI 4 pot fronts and 2 pot rears with steel braided lines. To my surprise this setup was actually quite nice. I did notice when compared to the car the brakes came from (JDM 2003/2004 WRX) that it required more effort in my car for the same stopping power but when you give it the effort boy does it haul the MUCH lighter ea82 to stop..9 cents change anyone? It isn't perfect. I would love to add the bigger 1 1/16th MC and booster but the only RHD cars that had it in 4 port config were those Legacies and very early imprezas with ABS. Of course ABS subarus from that era are scarce in Barbados. You guys have it lucky just go find yourself an SVX 1 1/16 MC and Legacy booster and your done.. Kaz

yeh Mine looks like this but missing the oil pressure and batt voltage guages, but making up for it by having a speedo that stops @ 220 kph Kaz