PoorManzImpreza

He's posting in the right section..some ea82T didn't have EGR and his 90 Loyale turbo is one of them..

EGR Pipe...

5th injector is to homologate (sp?) early generation antilag in the rally cars.. when you put the rally ecu in or custom management the antilag activates and keeps the lovely but laggy vf22 or such spooled when you take your foot off the gas..in this way you didn't have to alter the sequential injection map to perform the function..

yeh the 1st fitment picture is how they fit..I've never seen that type from the dealer..

Unless Loyale's differ from 85-89 dl/gl/gl-10/rxs in rear supension design, according to FSM rear alignment IS adjustable both camber and Toe..those same three bolts that hold the inner and outer trailing arms to each other are where the alignment can be adjusted..according to FSM the relative angle between the center lines of the two arms controls camber and to a lesser degree toe adjustment..toe is more affected by the relative position front 2 back between the two arms..both adjustments affect each other so this adjustment is best done on a laser rack..there is a ghetto way of doing the back but I hesitate to mention it..

yeh I rev my carbed ea82 all the way to 6.5k and past if I'm overtaking..sub engines love to rev they just need the air to do it..heard of ea82ts making power to 8k, but those are just whisperings on this board..

yeah upon further looksie it looks like the bolt snapped off two threads in on the threaded section of the bolt which means that it snapped just below the block surface..typical really..I've access to a drill press and yes the engine is out of the car..I've drilled hard steel before by hand and by the drill press and if you use machine oil liberally you can drill it so it doesn't even dull the bit (it helps to use a really good bit designed for hard metals). Any reason why I can't just make the jump to 12x1mm? 11x1mm Pitch is VERY hard to find where I live...

Yes..so I get a nice 17mm inpact socket and go about getting the heads on my turbo engine (ea82T) off all bolts break loose, took a long breaker bar and some grunt, except one which snapped $%&!@#$ :banghead: So I continue on and remove the head.. Cause of frozen head bolt? Blown head gasket leaking coolant into cylinder bore and head bolt..add that to engine sitting in that state for who knows how long..end result rust! So I'll have to drill the bolt out as it broke almost level with the block surface.. So should I drill and tap a 12mm?? Also both head gaskets were blown at exactly the same place on the gasket..I found this interesting..

all you have to do to get MS to idle correctly with our stock AAV is to richen the mixture it's actually quite nice not having to set up a real IAC valve our subs already have a perfectly functional one that requires no programing except a lil extra fuel..

only book that shows u how to correctly position the distributor after installing new timing belts is the FSM..u can find a link to it somewhere abouts..even tho' it is for an 89 car that part of it is identical..it shows how the cam sprocket should be positioned to get number one at tdc without removing plugs etc..

"Suspect #6 I love this one. Here we have a sensor plugged into the crankcase just in front of the flywheel ( CAS? ) and some previous rump roast-clown just CUT THE WIRES. This one I'm *quite* curious about. If it is the CAS, that could explain a lot of the problems." Knock sensor.. Very important! your car is an 85-86 MY so I'm not sure where the rest of the harness is/goes. In 87 onwards it's just one wire that goes into the engine harness.. Kaz

hmm all our 90-93 ej18 legacies are carbed..fyi..I posted pics of a carbed ej18 sitting in an L-series about a little over a years back...I'll e-mail the pics to any who would like to see this..

might be the conector that powers the idle solenoid/purge solenoid ;-)

I tend to throw away the O ring that fits on the water pipe and use the subaru part (pn: 8069 27010) when I use a non subaru water pump..I've found that they don't last as long and I've seen 4 cases where that failed while the pump didn't..just my 411.. oh and yes two different lengths for the timing belts.. man that gck halfshaft looks good...

Just an awesome write-up and adventure.. Kaz

I run a Legacy 15/16" MC in my 'ea82' bolted right up only thing I had to do was plug one of the brake line holes as they only had the part for an automatic in stock at the time.. one trimmed 10mm w 1mm pitch and one copper banjo washer later and I was done the rest bolted in with no other modifications.. I'm using stock brake booster.. Oh it's a 90-93 legacy part BTW, Legacy MC can be had up to 1 1/16" in bore but you only get that bore with ABS and how the lines hook up seems to be different..I seem to recall that 1" was the largest bore to be had non ABS..I woulda gotten that if it had been in stock.. HTH, Kaz

I've personally noticed a good improvement in braking consistancy and performance by swapping my 13/16+1" MC for a 15/16" Legacy MC.. also for the 1st time *gasp* I'll have to disagree with GD on the SS lines..our flex lines do indeed swell under normal braking remember with a brake booster there is over a thousand PSI in these lines, anything that can give your car more consistant braking is good and SS lines DEF. do this.. Our brakes are pathetically small in stock form, I have gotten mine hot enough to make the rotors glow all pretty red.. Upgrade paths should at least include better pads and better tires..up front I run EBC green stuff 90-93 non turbo Legacy pads and in the rear EBC green stuff Civic Si pads *adjusted* to fit the stock calipers.. I run lockheed dot4 fluid and all four calipers have been freshly rebuild when the legacy MC was installed. I have Kumho EcstaMX tires in the front 220 treadware and Kumho ecsta 712 in the rear mounted on 15" pugs. SS lines were acquired off a 90's corolla that had been wrecked, TRD part in the front and another front set was used in the rear after 'machining' the stock flare nut mount at the rear caliper smooth so I could use the banjo fitting. The rear lines fit from the 1st soft line junction right back to the caliper so the section of pipe between the two softlines was removed with the old softlines.. *edit* oh and these cars could really use a MC brace.. I'm workin' on that....

yeh.. better mention that these are our standard headlights down here in Barbados for L-series.. so getting them is pretty easy..

yup I figured this out when I got a rebuild kit for my drums (when I had them) and the parts guy asked me if I had a SW or a sedan I said wagon and asked him why..sedan used 11/16" wheel cyl. and wagon uses 3/4" so figuring that the same is true for rear discs I ordered the part from 1stsubaru for a wagon and they shipped it, I strip off a rear caliper take everything apart only to go WTF? sent me the wrong rebuild kit..2 small..so I go to local dealer grab the parts book and sure enough they sent me the wrong part..it seems their parts database has the wrong parts number associated with wagons..so fair warning for those buying kits..and I couldn't return it cuz I'm not exactly local lol.. if one looks under the back of an ea82 where the fuel lines enter the body of the car you'll see the 'g load sensing' proprtioning valve..

mine as well!

just by the way..all ea82s have a valve that varies pressure to the rear brake assemblies based on vehicle load. 'g load sensing valve' as its termed...I dunno how much it varies pressure by..but it does seem to differ from model/year and whether the car is 4wd or 2wd..

the front: xt6 lower control arm with ball joint and 'leading rod' xt6 hub rotor and caliper. if xt6 doesn't have air suspension (highly unlikely, but it has happened) the entire lower control arm, hub, housing halfshaft, strut and brakes can be removed as one assembly.. the front can also use legacy/impreza hub, housing, strut, brake and axle but MUST use XT6 lower control arm, the strut must be dissassembled and the ea82 spring can be used with its top hat on the impreza/legacy damper, or the impreza legacy spring can be cut (with sawzall so u won't heat up the spring and destroy it's tempering) to desired ride hieght and the ea82 tophat used..If you want to use the impreza/legacy tophat the three strut mounting holes in the ea82 chassis must be adjusted outwards to support the larger diameter of the impreza/legacy strut top stud bolt pattern. if the impreza/legacy brakes are used an alternate means of parking brake must be found. If you need to use impreza/legacy dampers on the xt6 housing you may need to adjust the mounting flange of the damper to fit the housing.. the rear: Requires the xt6 hub, backing plate, caliper and rotor, the strut assembly is of the same design as ea82 rears and as such is NOT required for conversion.. notes: there is some confusion over some xt6 having a 14mm bolt or a 17mm bolt securing the lower control arm to the subframe so be warned if u get the 17mm assemply you will need to drill out the hole in your ea82 so the 17mm bolt can pass (I'm using 17mm to represent the bolt head not the shaft as is metric standard notation) if the xt6 lower control arm/leading rod assembly can't be used the ea82 control arm can bea reamed out at a machine shop to fit the xt6/impreza/legacy ball joint.. HTH Kaz

Sounds like you need another car... ej powered rx and ea82t powered wagon? Unless you trashed the wagon..

Yes actually I think the HLA will be the problem at 8-9k rpm..once you get stiffer springs in there the valve springs won't be the cause of float.. 8k isn't that high and lets not forget rally prepped ea82s ran to 7500rpm with approx 12psi of boost.. but they had shim adjusted mechanically locked HLAs in there..I just think the HLA relief system will cause them to lose pressure at that rpm..maybe not, but we'll find out if Will does what he likes to do..

that'd be your purge control solenoid..