PoorManzImpreza

Late model ea71 engines have the same carb bolt pattern as ea82 carbs.. early ea71s didn't ea8x manifolds will not bolt to ea71, ea8x is wider ie longer stroke late model ea71 and ea82 carbs are almost the same on the outside jdm equipped vehicles may have differed, but our caribbean market vehicles are damn close to jdm.. late model ea71 got fancy hydraulic lifters, ea81 valves, starter on the left (with respect to driver) bell housing and if fit into L-series cars had coolent passages and thermostat housing placement so it can mate to an 'ea82' (L-sereis) radiator..they also got a bump in power with an almost SRX camshaft..

this was really easy with the rack out of the car.. lol I happened to be upgrading from manual to power steering at the time, but what GD informed you is spot on..If I were doing it with the rack mounted on the car I'd lift the entire front end then tern the wheel so the rack is exposed nice and good. This should make it easier to work on..good luck if the flat spots designed to allow a wrench to get in there to untie the rods is in a funky position..should still be doable.. Kaz

I thought it had been determined that impreza/legacy aftermarket steering wheel hubs were mechanically compatible with L-series (ea82) cars?

Whatu mean backwards? It's yall's cars that are backwards Wheel looks good though

swapping the crossmember is very simple I'd highly recommend doing that.. Kaz

lacking any further information, I'd say it was the dropping resistor for the 4eat transmission ECU..every sub with a 4eat that I've seen has had a single resistor just like that mounted somewhere... HTH Kaz

Power flow in an AWD and Fulltime 4WD box goes like this: lets assume 5th gear as in the above posted picture from the FSM 1 flywheel to clutch disk 2 clutch to input shaft 3 input shaft to dual-range gear set, if dual range 4 input shaft to 5th gear set 5 5th gear set to output shaft 6 output shaft to pinion shaft of center diff. 7 spider gear of center diff to one to one gear driving input to rear prop. shaft prop shaft to rear diff 7 spider gear of center diff to drive pinion of front diff 8 front diff spiders to left and right front half shafts 8 rear diff spiders to left and right rear half shafts I've used the same number to denote events that happen simultaneously under ideal grip conditions What confuses many people is that the front diff pinion shaft passes right through the main output shaft of the gear set thus at a casual glance it looks just like the output shaft/pinion drive combo of a part time or FWD gear box, the output shaft of the gear set rides on roller bearings on the front drive pinion shaft and this is it's only path of contact between the two other than through the center diff. Now because the front drive section of a full time box has more drag resistance because the output shaft is literally rotating around it on bearings and the front diff as well. If one puts it in gear and turns the input shaft by hand the torque will go the path of least resistance which is usually out the rear stub shaft, what you will notice is that if the front stubs aren't turning and the rear stub is turning that it will be turning twice as fast as the gear ratios say it should, proof that the torque is going through a differential with one spider not rotating.. hope that clears it all up..forgive me for errors; it's late, Kaz

Pin 13 is what I have as well WGDS is located with the resister pack bracket sorta behind it

My GL-10 Parts wagon had an 18mm rear bar on it (entire rear subframe now on my DL wagon)..think that might have been related to it having air suspension..

the biggest issues are fuel supply and ignition..you'll need to use the carb fuel pump the ignition requires using the carb distributor you'll notice that it'll plug right up to th MPFI ignition coil and strangely work just the same.. the power to the coil should be spliced to automatic choke on carb as well it is black with two white stipes..this isn't complete there is more but I'm in a hurry..

The PUG wheels have a lower offset than stock thus they stick out further..I like mine lol 205/50ZR15 kumho ecstaMX on the front and 205/50r15 kumho ecsta 712 on the back..

Nay

I had a similar problem with a carb I had turned out the idle jet had a blockage..stripped carb removed idle jet (PITA! I hate brass) cleaned it in carb cleaner, cleaned out all passages and jets..rebuild carb with fresh gaskets and new accel. pump. put carb back on purred like a kitten..drove for a week same thing happened again..was very pissed! Repeated the above minus accel. pump reassembled REPLACED FUEL FILTER and relocated it to engine bay..problem solved been running like that for over a year..

I'd do exactly as you suggest: "What i am planning to do is run a shielded wire from the engine bay to the ecu for the knock sensor, the wire for the wastegate duty solenoid, 2 wires to the dash, (in case i ever get an RX instrument cluster so i have oil pressure and boost light.)" as long as both ECUs are four plug you should be ok..

man.. I'd just be happy with an ea82t ;-) awesome...

it's for height control as far as I can tell 'shift up'

they aren't the same, offset is diff by a few mm but they mount up just the same.. car might pull a teeny bit if they are missmatched..that's what happened to a bud who put an ea81 hub I had laying around on his ea82..

..and the 87+ ea82 ecus have a socket for an extra ROM chip and a serial interface of some kind..

If the HLA (Hydraulic Lash Adjusters) have collapsed, which can happen when an ea82 is taken apart, then the rockers will be loose until the HLAs pump up on engine restart..This took me about 12 Minutes @ 1300-2500 rpm until they were fully pumped up using a freshly rebuild oil pump..your results may be different, especially with the delta cam, but good luck on the build

Yes it does make sense and what you say agrees with my parts book, but it still doesn't help me determine which cam might work best..I only have cam specifications for 1989..so I don't know what differences the 85-85 cams had vs the later year cams..or specifically the '88 turbo cams..I noticed the specs for the delta cams that some run around here have increased overlap vs the later model turbo cams..hmmm...

I have currently in my car a carbed ea82 circa 1985-86, rebuild from the ground up about 5 years ago, resealed when I got it a year ago, el-cheapo seals were used in rebuild, but was assured genuine rings bearings and headgaskets were used..anyway it was cheap and was removed running strong.. so anyway getting to the point about cams.. this carbed block pulls cleanly to 6000+ rpm with no problems whatsoever, granted I'm running an open element filter and my exhaust is far from stock.. Now my buds completely stock carbed '88 car seems to fall flat at about 5k or so.. I noticed that in 85-86 the carbed and turbo blocks shared the same camshafts.. My question is, finally.. In my 88 turbo engine should I use stock 88 camshafts or throw in the 85-86 cams?

So my 2 cents.. My exhaust guy He drives an L-series wagon just like mine he has a carbed ej18 in it, my car has a carbed ea82 in it My car has stock ea71 headers going for about 8-10 inches then mated to 1 7/8 that merge offset unequal length like stock into a y pipe then into 2" out through custom straight through eliptical barrel resonator to custom phart can at the back My muffler guy has stock ej18 collector mated to 1 7/8 merged equal length into a y pipe then 2" through straight through center resonator into phart can at the back.. My car sounds like a subaru and his sounds like a toyota so much so that people ask him if he swapped a 20 valve 4age into his 'roo.. It is the unequal length headers and ONLY the unequal length headers that give subaru flat fours their distinctive sound.. the pulses from left and right head combine into a larger pulse, because of the delay of one pulse taking longer to get to the merge, so in effect two pulses merge into a larger single pulse so instead of the engine sounding brum_brum_brum_brum_brum_brum it sounds BRUM_____BRUM_____BRUM_____BRUM as you accelerate the pulses in the headers lengthen and the sound alters slightly as it does when the engine revs higher.. Harleys sound different because their firing order is messed up because of the angle between the pistons and how much of a crank rotation it takes for each piston to rotate twice to top dead center relative to when the last firing takes place..

FSM says it best..it is a learning system..it's constantly advancing timing and adjusting boost..Having taken appart an 88' ECU they are complex..what I find interesting is room for a second ROM chip..Unisia Jecs now a subsidiary of Hitachi was doing interesting things and still is from what wrx ECUs can do..many a rex driver has noticed their car getting faster over time..

ok to convert from carb to a ea82 turbo you need: Engine crossmember from turbo car, the crossmember has a concave indentation that allows clearance fot the turbo up exhaust pipe Engine Downpipe, will bolt to carb exhaust at the first flange with the springs Fuel pump and wires ECU ECU and engine wiring harness, which is integrated with front wire harness, which plugs into ecu and dash and body harnesses, so basically you need the entire dash/engine harness to make it easy, else you need to extract the engine to ecu harness from the front harness and the dash harness. Air flow sensor fuel pump and ignition relays, mounted next to ECU under steering column Fuel tank, EFI fuel tank has build in surge tank, but u might be able to get away with using your carbed tank fuel filter and fuel lines.. (carbed fuel line could be used as well) probably missed a few items.. if you want to convert your carbed motor to EFI and leave the turbo out you need: the above, but only the heads and intake complete from the turbo engine, a method of sealing the oil and coolant lines that goto the turbo must be devised you'd need to mount an o2 bung to your carbed exhaust.. which brings me to a good point, even in Barbados where our old school subarus didn't even have evap emissions control, egr etc the car had a cat. so I'm a bit confused that germany's carbed vehicles didn't..I've seen the euro s[ec parts book and the exhaust looks the same as ours...Oh and By the way euro spec turbo cars had 140hp and a factory oil cooler.. forgive any typos.. but if the one cat isn't enough, why not just add the cat from the turbo car?

So your saying grease is optional?