PoorManzImpreza

aren't there six books in a fsm set?

hmm.. haynes, bootleg 89' pdf fsm that float around on the 'net, '88 section 6 fsm, 85-90 parts book..

Yeah..modern decks have bridged output amplifiers allowing them to drive speakers at 22 watts rms per channel (don't believe that 45 watts per channel it is peak output @ 10%+ distortion) because the outputs are bridged these decks will at a minimum sound very tinny and at a maximum destroy the output stage if wired to a common ground speaker system, like our old school subs.. My recommendation is to wire fresh wire to the speaker connectors situated under the carpet by where the door harnesses terminate, usually a pink connector, to the back of the head unit, that way the door harnesses remain intact and you don't have a naked wire to pull through the door gromets..I also recommend drawing power directly from the battery to the head unit with a 15 amp fuse in line, then using the existing switched wire to the units ignition inputs, usually a blue wire with a yellow stripe.. just my two cents..

moly grease, but any of the above do fine

I did the above, long belt tensioner has nut and bolt holding the bearing, short belt tensioner has roll pin as there's no room to fit a nut spring washer and flat washer..the bearings aren't peened on; the inner race looks like it is induction welded to the tensioner hub...one needs to get the tensioner pully off the outer race then hack of the outer race and the balls leaving the inner race then cut off the top of shaft beyond 13.5 mm then one needs to mill it down true to 13.5mm. I then drilled out the hole to accept an M10 shaft (I think lol it might have been bigger but I can't recall, anyways it was the closest size to the inside diameter of the replacement bearings inner race coulda been an M12) I then bored out the tensioner pully so the bolt head would clear the hole in the pully I then pressed the new bearing into the pully. Next I slid the bolt through that assembly, you'll notice that the bolt and the inner race aren't a tight fit so I slid a bit of feeler gauge of the right thickness in there, it should be tight enough that you can barely get the feeler gauge cuttings in between the bolt and the inner race, next slide the new assembly into the hole you bored in the tensioner hub and grab a flat washer, spring washer and nut. Coat the threads with thread locking compound and place the flat washer spring washer then nut onto the exposed bolt shaft and tighen it down like your mother's life depended on it..70 lbft or so? If this is the long belt side, your done if this is the short belt tensioner skip the thread locker and torque down, next place the assembly so you can drill a hole through the tensioner hubs shaft perpendicular to its axis so that you avoid interfering with the pully or the tensioner mount plate this must be sized to match a role pin, make sur you are as dead center as possible so u drill through the axis of the bolt as well. Drive a role pin through the hole. Remove the nut and washers and hack off the remainder of the exposed threaded shaft..your done, go mount your rebuild/rebuildable tensioners, mount your timing belts and have fun! I've run about 10k on this setup...

just a correction.. carbed ea81 have 8.7:1 compression carbed ea82 are 9:1, MPFI GT spec ea82 (not MPFI XT, but fwd sadan with MPFI, 5 speed and disc brakes) have 9.7:1 and turbo mpfi ea82 have 7.7:1 compression...

speaking of key stories.. So I get this beautiful (read rusted hulk) '88 GL-10 wagon that had been abandoned by the owner, who brought it to Barbados from canada, because the 4eat tranny had busted the inner shaft. Having found no replacement and being 2 lazy to order the part (or too cheap) from overseas he, instead, left the car by the mechanic who had been doing some engine work on it as well..now fast forward about 6 years where I find said GL-10 peaking out in the bush it was slowly becoming a part of. The engine was missing, the seats were missing but everything else was there, all the glory parts I'd been lusting after since I joined USMB (coincidence? I think not ;-) disc brakes, 18mm rear sway bar, 4wd, power everything, and look! Same interior color as my car! So I rapidly arrange to move it and do, get it mostly stripped of the sweet bits on the outside, then tackle the inside. So finally I get to that nice tilt steering column and I remember it still has the key in the ignition, So I take it out and shove it in my pocket and go about talking the ECU off the column mounts blah blah. So later in the dar I take the key out of my pocket and actually look at it..I musta looked pretty freaky as my jaw fell open..I searched my other pocket for the keys to my DL, worn and copys but still so clear..the keys were identical, every curve and notch matched, in one hand I held my DL key, worn, copied, with 'for nissan and subaru' on the side, and in my other I held the key to the GL-10 nice and in better condition and original with subaru logo, L. E. D. and key number..I'm stunned so I go over to my DL stick the GL-10 key in the door and damn if it doesn't turn better than my copy! So how likely is it that two cars with the same key, sent 2 two different countries would land up sharing parts? Man I was stoked that day

Heater cores usually crap out after about 12 to 13 years..

New timing belts valve cover gaskets oil pan gasket cam seals oil pump gasket alt and fan belts clutch kit and flywheel ( Already have a line on these..Thanks KingBobDole) throw-out bearing water pump? cam shaft housing to cylinder head O ring? Front and rear crank shaft seals? Timing belt tensioners? Oil filter? (and oil) radiator cap? (always a good idea if it's never been replaced) Oil pickup O ring? Hydraulic lash adjuster relief springs? Head gaskets? (if you wanna risk breaking an intake manifold bolt, been there done that ;-) O2 sensor? Pilot bearing? Cap and rotor? Timing belt cover seals? (Connie should run Bucky's belts naked! ;-) water pipe O ring? water pump gasket? Fuel filter? damn and I haven't even started on anything not on the engine.. Missing anything..?

According to FSM injectors are 2-3 Ohms in resistance and each injector resister has a value of 5.8-6.5 Ohms...I could actually measure them..there sitting less than 2 feet away..ok..I'll measure them..each resister measures 6-6.1 Ohms according to my mutimeter ok so assuming supply voltage of 13.8 volts nominal and combined resistance of 8 ohms (and we'll use the low side of the tolerance so we predict maximum current). Now we've neglected the transiter resistance in the circuit that is the return path to earth in the injector control circuit, so the actual current draw will be slightly less..We'll also ignore any reactive components as nothing in the engine switches fast enough (outside the ECU) for them to be of consequence..So using V=IR where R is combined resistance and V is supply voltage we get a current flow in the circuit of 13.8/8 or 1.725 A..now recall that each driving transister in an ea82 87+ ECU actually drives two injectors at a time in parallel so total current sink per drive transister is 3.45 A...hmm..each injector dissipates 5.95 Watts... HTH

umm remove resister pack, hook red wire from fusible link directly to all four red wires at resister pack connector..that'll send 12V directly to injectors...should be fine as long as current through high impedance injectors is the same or lower than current through low impedance in series with injector resistors..and signal slue rates aren't affected by extra inductance... I thought DSM injectors were low impedance tho'.. I haven't actually calculated current draw per injector in stock setup tho'

agreed 100% stick 1.5 feet long header pipes on the heads at least..

...I prey Bucky lives forever..

that looks awesome... :slobber:

iac shares power from fuel pump relay..usually a nice sky blue wire..

Great fan of the come-a-long am I..Works splendidly, however remind me next time 2 drain the fluids from the engine.. and damn bet a /6 head weighs more than a dry sub engine..

I'm in agreement..front is ugly..hasn't subaru figured it out yet? they shoulda stuck two turbos on that H6 put a nasty hood scoop on it and got rid of that alfa romeo grill..put 500 horses to the floor and then slapped that on the public..then we'd have seen dust in the wind..

I can confirm that carb'd '90 Legacys with fwd five speed called Legacy DL had 23 spline joints..this I know cause said carb'd ej18 was placed in a buds L-series with its fwd transmission and the stock L series DL axles slid right onto it..I've posted pics of this car in the past on the older generation board..

HOLY... that thing a turbo or a black hole?

*sigh*..Naru I meant no offence to your comments, and take none from yours..afterall this is USMB not NASIOC.. What I was simply pointing out is that Subaru only equiped vehicles with EGR when they had to reduce emissions..By that I neither confirmed nor denied whether it could improve or not; throttling losses, NOx emissions etc..All I implied was that since I had not seen such a subaru, be it ea63, ea71, ea81, ea82, ea82T, ej16 MPFI, ej18 carbed, ej18 spfi, ej22, ej22T, ej20g, ej207 powered, nor any JDM import, that was equiped with EGR where I live in Barbados and that we have no emissions restrictions whatsoever, that the system might just have only been installed as an emissions control device in areas where emissions control is an issue..I'll have a lawyer review my comments so as not to offend those with feather-light sensibilities

May I mention that I've never even SEEN a subaru engine outside my haynes manual and fsm that even had EGR? Even my ea82t engine w/ MPFI has no EGR provisions..so umm def not a requirement at all; total emissions control device.. We should all be forgiven for typos, even when they lead to debates like this..

very slick, and an awesome pic of how to hook up the wategate solenoid and boost switch

My car is like you describe yours; '..this valve have 2 connction points, one up and one down, the upper is connecting to the fuel lines, the down is not conecting to no where..' So is EVERY carburetted L-series imported to Barbados (my home) by our local dealer, what you describe is NORMAL.. this is how the car came from the factory if it didn't have evaporative emissions (charcoal canister).. Do not be concerned by this in the slightest..

if by broken you mean it just had a hose hooked to it, but not connected to anything else that is how it came from the factory in L-series cars without evaporative emissions...ie there's nothing wrong with your cars fuel plumbing

LOL mine is NOT so stealth..looks good though :-)btw, why didn't you use MDF?