PoorManzImpreza

converting the car to power windows and locks is fairly straight forward..just need to grab the complete door harness for each door and rear gate (wagon), complete under carpet harness for the door locks and windows grab the power window control unit under the drivers seat (RHD) you will need to unrap the door and window harness from the body harness if the source car has a 4eat auto transmission as some of the wiring is sometimes wrapped with the harness that goes to the 4eat TCU..look under the dash by the driver kick panel and u'll see a connector with a fat white wire and a smaller green wire with white stripe. One side of this connecter feeds back to the power window control unit and the other goes up to the dash harness/fuse box this is the main power feed to the power windows (white wire) and ignition control wire (green/white wire{your wire colours may differ}).. In my car the dash side of this connector was already there..so I just had to plug it in (go figure.. ;-) the doors I had to run power from the batt. and protect it with a 20 amp fuse hardware wise is fairly simple just unbolt the power winders/regulators after removing the glass from the parts car and replace the manual winders/regulators in your car you'll also need the white roller things that holds the glass in position as it goes up and down..four of them per glass.. the door lock solenoids are held in with two screws and the control rod is held in place by a plastic clip getting these off is fairly easy..don't snap the plastic retension clips you need them for your car.. my upgrade wasn't as easy as I converted from a left hand source car to my right hand drive car.. the electrical switches for the windows will mount in the same place as in the source car when you remove your DL panels you'll notice that the cutout for the switch is there you just have to cut it out.. while you have the harness out of the parts car complete hook it up to its new power souces in your car and to the associated hardware from the parts car. Verify that everything is working. If you see sluggish performance of the window motors dissassemble the switches and clean the contacts check all connections in the affected winder circuit and make sure you have good continuity..the door lock solenoids seldom go bad but test to be sure.... wrap the any part of the harness you had to open in electrical tape and if you had 2 cut any wires use solder and heatshrink tubing to cover the repaired joint.. Once you have everything working it's time to install everything in your car..since you stripped it from the parts car you should know where everything should go..you don't have to remove your carpet but you do have to remove the plastic trim that covers the mount points for the carpet and peal it back.. let me know if you run into any problems... This took me about a 5 days to do working from 4pm to 6pm on evenings..but it should be much faster for you as you don't have to convert from LHD to RHD like I did but I smile everytime it rains and I don't have to lean over and roll up a window while driving..

Idle shouldn't drop at all it should increase.. glad you found what I was talking about in my earlier post. ok this vacuum diaphram can be adjusted just loosen the 8mm nut on the threaded shaft at the back of it and with the ac on adjust the threaded shaft with a screw driver. As you adjust it it'll increase or decrease the idle. Adjust so that your engine idles at about 1000-1200 rpm with ac on and in gear if it is an auto..this ensures that your compressor is spinning at the correct speed and that the extra load of the compressor doesn't cause your engine to lug when moving off..

why does richening idle mixture make it go away?

ok here's my theory..nothing electrical might be wrong with the car..your problem might be that your engine isn't idling up when you turn on your ac (ac small switch on and blower fan turned to 1-4) if your idle up solenoid and vacuum diaphram (carb. model) isn't functioning then when your ac turns on the engine idle will drop from it's normal 700-800 rpm to maybe 300-400 rpm..the alternator will NOT be operating fast enough to supply the correct voltage and current and the blower fan and electric radiator fan will only be adding to the load..if this is combined with a batt. that doesn't have all six cells inside of it functioning correctly you could easily replicate all your symptoms..If your car is carberetted I'd chech to see if the vacuum hose hasn't slipped out of the idle up diaphram mounted on the intake manifold next to the throttle linkage...and if it is that it is actually working and the solenoid that opens it to manifold vacuum is working as well..if it is EFI check the FICD solenoid on the throttle body it is behind the throttle body with respect to the engine...HTH..

man that engine looks SWEET! how did u fix your tps issues?

Hey Gannon, Could you possibly take pictures of the engine wiring harness routing for me? Since your car is RHD..and most of the cars on here are lefties

It has to do with your idle air fuel mixture, how well your exhaust flows and size of the economizer in the carb (I'm assuming carburetion)..you can usually illiminate it by running a Cat LOL seriousely adjusting idle air fuel a little bit rich sometimes helps..This is classic with a bigger exhaust..I'll quote a site that says it better than I could: "In general, backfiring on deceleration (as opposed to acceleration) is generally caused by a lean condition in the pilot circuit. What happens is that the mixture leans out enough to where is fails to ignite consistently. This, in turn allows some un-burnt fuel to get into the exhaust pipes. Then when the engine does fire, these un-burnt gasses are ignited in the exhaust pipe, causing the backfire. Newer carbs have an 'enricher circuit' which cuts in on deceleration to help this problem. Earlier carbs do not have this. I would say check the pilot circuits, and set them a bit richer. It is hard to do this right without some equipment to test where you are. Aftermarket pipes often increase backfiring, probably because they make the bike run leaner."

stupid question but is the car idling up when you turn on the ac? tach should sit at just about 1100-1200 rpm with ac on and funtioning correctly..

only the impreza clutch DISC is the same not clutch kit which includes disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing..

ea82 timing belts require tensioning to be correctly installed..

one issue MilesFox may have overlooked is if the transmission is a 3at or a 4eat ie a three speed or a 4 speed..if it is a 4 speed the transmission won't shift correctly without a signal from the TPS which is sent to the 4eat ECU from the engine harness to body harness connectors by the ignition coil, splicing in on the body side of the harness..if it is a 3at then the swap takes place as Miles described..if it is a 4eat I'd swap it out for a 5 speed (semi big job) or 3at (if u have 2..) or consider acquiring the right parts to bring your current engine back 2 turbo spec..

my turbo engine sourced from an '88 has no egr as well..this vehicle seemed 2 be a CDM vehicle so I guess maybe the cannucks got diff. stuff

another vote for gates I've seen oem sub belts made by gates..subie part # and all..

*potential hijack, but almost on topic* So while we're on the topic of pondering ea81 parts in ea82 engines has anyone considered carbed ea81 pistons in ea82T?..same bore/stroke..8.7:1 compression..seems mighty boost friendly..and lord knows that extra point in compression we could use..think they are strong enough? do ea81 rods have 2 be used? *end potential hijack*

according to FSM one is for fuel return two is fuel supply three is for evap.. what year is the engine? any idea? if your making a loom/harness for this engine I'd strongly advize acquireing a copy of the engine controll schematic for that year..there are some FSM scans in PDF format from an 89' car that'll be a huge help in doing whatu want..

sweet mother of SUB...that is perfect..lovely lovely subaru

well lol it all depends.. u can get them off easily with the closed end of a combination wrench (17mm if I recall)..well one of em anyway to get the other one one out (2 bushings per leading rod) u need 2 detach the lower control arm/leading rod assembly from the car..it would seem easier just 2 detach the leading rod from the lower control arm and it might be if u've got the right tools..I couldn't get em apart easily in the car the problem lies in the low head height bolts used to hold the assembly together..just couldn't seem to keep the backup wrench in place while applying the torque 2 get 'em apart...so I just removed the assembly..u'll notice when u get the new bushings that the old ones barely look like the new ones..pay attention to the direction the old bushings come out as the new ones go in the same way with the sides that have the cross on them facing each other with the mount bracket in between them..now hold the leading rod/control arm assembly in place with the new bushings so that the leading rod is in the almost exact center of the bushing on the side that has the plate and the nut you might have to rotate the assembly along the leading rod axis to do this..u'll see why as u tighten down the nut compressing the bushings in place as if not centered u'll squeeze part of the bushing between the plate and where the plate seats on the leading rod when fully tightened..after the bushings are fully compressed and the plate seats, mount the inner control arm mount back 2 the chassis and torque the leading rod nut 2 specification while pushing up on the control arm so u'll actually have enough room 2 fit your torque wrench on the nut..once torqued slip the ball joint back into the knuckle then raise the car by the lower control arm so you can remount the sway bar ( the sway bar bolt won't line up otherwise..tighten balljoint pinch nut, inner control arm mount nut and bolt and sway bar nut and bolt 2 torque specs..install wheel repeat on ther side of car lower car off jack stands get realigned if required enjoy the new responsiveness of your steering..untill the cheap rubber wears out again.. hoped that made sense..doesn't take long if your not figuring out your rump roast from your elbow lol good luck

not hijacking but wagon rear calipers have bigger pistons than xt6 calipers FYI... there is an ea82 wagon in aussieland that has subaru 4 pot calipers and discs on the front and 2 pot calipers and discs on the back.. sourced from a JDM wrx..these are the black calipers with subaru written in white as stock..the guy had painted em red like evo brembos once u go 5 bolt this becomes possible..2 run 2pot in the rear u gotta adapt the leading and trailing e-brake shoes and backing plate from the same parts car u sourced the brakes from to the stock ea82 hub. With some drilling and spacers it will bolt 2 the same 3 holes the stock ea82 caliper mount/backing plate mount 2..then u gotta figure out how 2 route cables to the ebrake levers..the front is bolt on if your using 'GC8' sourced 5 bolt stuff which will bolt onto xt6 lower control arms which if 4wd will bolt to any ea82 front suspension mounts..u gotta use the ea82 top hat on the impreza strut.. oh and these brakes require 17" wheels or special 16s 2 run.. the rear xt6 5 bolt hub bolts to the ea82 spindle..if u keep stock brakes u need the xt6 backing plate/caliper mount as the xt6 rotors are bigger in diameter thus the caliper mount is further out..fyi stock for stock u should notice better braking JUST upgrading to xt6 5 bolt hardware because of the bigger rear discs..I think the front is bigger as well but I have not had this confirmed.. I HIGHLY recommend anyone running 4 wheel disc brakes to upgrade to a 90-93 legacy 15/16th or 1" master cylinder for non ABS cars this is bolt in for ea82 cars. This will make your braking far more consistant and more progressive with effort and I find my car stops better in everyway..it will also put you in good stead for running fixed 4 and 2 pot calipers (the 1" MC anyway..) there is a 1 1/16" MC for abs cars but this will require additional hardware to bolt to the ea82 brake lines..

those bishings don't seem to last..it could be the tropical conditions down here but I replaced mine with genuine FHI parts about 2 years ago and I can see cracks in the rubber already and sloppiness in the steering..u notice this most when u move off from a stop with full left or right steering lock you'll feel one of the wheels move differently to the other..when I 1st put the new bushings in it was wonderfull..need some stiffer more enduring bushings in that location..

OMG talk about digging up old topics lol I went the ea82 carbed route..redrilled my 1600 flywheel to 1800 bolt pattern..and about 5 months after that found an ea82 4wd flywheel AND an ea82 fwd flywheel...time heals all wounds I'm now preparing to move on to turbo ea82 and EFI.. still have that dual hitachi SRX manifold tho'...

Damn... Pugs make a sub look sooo good...needs some sawsall and some flares that match the bodykit like an evo 5 ;-)

well all I can tell you is this kit they sent DOES NOT fit the calipers from this GL-10 the rubber piston seal is too small so is the dust boot you have 2 stretch the piston seal to get it to fit around the piston I've NEVER seen a piston seal that was that tight around the caliper piston outside the caliper. The dust boot didn't even fill the grove in the piston where it's supposed 2 seat, the piston seal didn't fill the groove in the caliper body it is about 3-4mm 2 small in diameter..you can't even force it to fit as it's well near impossible 2 stretch the piston seal in it's caliper groove while pushing the piston in ..the seal blocks the piston and there is no room 2 stick anything in there 2 stretch it open..this is the wrong part..this isn't suprising to me as drum equiped vehicles have different sized wheel cylinders between sedans and wagons (with the wagon being bigger) I have verified that this is true as well for disc equiped vehicles check your local dealers parts book and you'll see that this is true..even 1stsubaruparts.com has two listings for this overhall kit what I think happened is they have the smaller kit coressponding to the 'bigger' vehicle and vice-versa instead of how it should be..I'd take pictures but unfortunately I had 2 reassemble the %$#ing calipers with the leaky seals cause I need my car..these calipers were only worked on 2 change pads they are the stock gl-10 calipers labelled tokico (hitachi) model 7T... I wish I had written down the correct part numbers when I looked through the part books..then I'da known it was the wrong part before I opened the kit...still PISSED:mad:

my 2 cents..I always remove the bottom bolts before the top otherwise the weight of the engine makes the bottom bolts harder to remove..this won't help you acquire the second elbow joint required in one arm to access the nut nearest the turbo..lol others have already suggested means of doing that tho' ;-)

the car will run fine without the clutch fan as long as you don't run the AC it will get HOT if u run the AC without it..FYI cars not equiped with AC only came with the electric fan..

So I order a rebuild kit for my rear calipers sourced from a GL-10 parts car from 1stsubaruparts.com (local dealer doesn't have it, costly to order) I tell them the car is an 88 wagon (which it was) so I know I'll get the right part..so they tell me they gotta order it from Japan so it'll take a while..meh I can live with that..then they tell me it'll cost 50 bucks to ship to Barbados..WTF?? how does something that can fit in an envelope cost 50 bucks to ship anywhere on this planet?? Anyway I ask if they can ship it to a skybox in Miami and they say 'yes' around 4 bucks..priority mail..so I place the order fine now I just gotta wait... ffwd a month and my parts arrive! yay! working back brakes! so I jack up my car remove the wheels take off a back caliper, take it apart and hold the parts next to the rebuild kit..wrong @#@!ing kit it is 2 small!! WTF? so I take the part number insert it into 1stsubaruparts.com's part lookup and sure enough it matches up to an 88 wagon,coupe etc...but it is the WRONG part! Now only thing I can figure is they mixed up which kit is bigger and which is smaller needless to say I AM PISSED! :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: btw part number for the kit they sent is: 725191120