PoorManzImpreza

sorry lol '88 gl-10 turbo..it's next to the wastegate/boost switch/injector resistors bracket and is bolted on two sides of the shock tower (front and inside) so it's bracket is 90 degrees.. when I took it off my parts car it wasn't hooked up as the engine wasn't in the car..

no one knows what it is?? *BUMP*

hey guys what is that box next to the boost switch/wastegate solenoid/injector resisters assembly on the right shock tower? it has some vacuum hoses hooked up to it, has some kind of motor on it..I'm guessing it provides vacuum to the AC vents when the car is on boost, but I'm not sure...

FHI made carburetted ej18s as well if, they're available in UK...unless your heart is set on EFI

turbo is oil lubricated and watercooled FYI

if it is a hitachi it will have the hitachi logo on the cap..

sounds like you DO have the disk in backwards..the pressure plate CAN be bolted down with the clutch in backwards the pressure plate spring will look wrong but sometimes not wrong enough to really notice when your tired and it's late..with the clutch in backwards the clutch hub will rub on the flywheel bolts and make very nasty sounds..to verify pop your hood and see if you can move the clutch fork towards the firewall by hand..this a sure sign that the pressure plate is past the release point and something is preventing it from engaging properly, usually the clutch disk in backwards..

Believe it or not the metal sealed bearings those seals are very removable..they seal by surface tension of the grease inside which gives you some idea of the thickness of grease one should be using.. my recommendation if one is rebuilding those idler pulleys get the correct bearing with metal seals take a seal off and flush out the crappy grease that they come with install some good moly grease in there snap the seal back on press bearing into pulley w 32mm socket and BFH or hydraulic press if you've got it..the reason I recommend the metal seals is you can get em out without busting them to repack the bearing and the plastic seals deteriorate after a while..lol with a teeny bit of machining, timing belt tensioners can be made rebuildable..but that's for a later date.. oh and the reason you might be having a hard time injecting into the plastic seals is because they are typically backed by metal..

man that car is soooo fixable..if you'd seen some of the unibodies the body guys down here have straightened out...most important step after straightening is cutting out the parts of the metal where the metal dented in at the bend, usually the point of impact but not always, and replacing it with good sheet metal and or good piece from another car weld that in replace lights radiator etc and the car is as good and strong as new..

Damn that looks factory!

..they probably reamed out the ea81 lower control arm balljoint seat so the xt6/legacy/impreza ball joint could fit in it..thus the steering knuckle/front strut/fivebolt hub setup could be used with an ea81 top hat or just drill the three holes for the impreza/lagacy/xt6 top hat..this part I'm not 100% sure of but if the ea81 axle shaft fits into an impreza/xt6/legacy outer cv joint a custom axle could easily be assembled...I have no idea if the loss of width between xt6 and ea81 body styles could simply be accomodated by the movement of the DOJ without the inner race bottoming out in the cup..if that was the case one could simply use xt6/legacy/impreza axles with an ej tranny or a turbo ea82 style tranny...the back hubs are the same as the ea82 fivebolt upgrade..

yeh I run 29-30 PSI on the fron and 28 PSI on the back.. sorry if this offends but 40 psi is almost insane.. I did that once 'cause the tire pumps pressure gauge was faulty and the car handled and road like turd..not recommended IMHO

Remember Will it took you running 9.5:1 compression and boost to mess up anything piston related on the gl-10 and you were running the older engine management on the 85-86 cars..and if on your current setup you didn't put a hole in a piston running as lean as stock ecu does up high at 15 psi I don't think the pistons are that much of an issue.. my thoughts would be bigger turbo TD04L or so, bigger injectors for sure and of course the most important mod IMHO is full engine management MS&EDIS seems likely..although none of those running it on ea82Ts have posted any numbers.. and I'm putting a vote in for a higher o/p fuel pump.. still I'm very impressed with those numbers from the lil engine that could.. :burnout:

A whispered voice increases in intensity exponentially with every turbo wagon I see. It tells me those unalterable words, those seeds of obsession. I hear that voice creeping from my subconscious to my daily awareness. Slowly it is becoming a shout... You Must Run BOOST! You Must Run BOOST! You Must Run BOOST! You Must Run BOOST! And now after seeing your wagon, dude it is screaming my head off! Awesome job man, very sweet ride...

umm so are EFI and carb fuel tanks a different part #? that will REALLY suck as the EFI fuel tank on my parts car went with it to the great crusher in the sky...

so no one here has taken apart a power rack, have you? Here's a hint if you've got dexron in your boots your rack is leaking..the geared section of a PS rack is seperated from the hydraulic section so NO dexron(ps fluid) does NOT lubricate the gears in the rack or pinion it will only even get near those gears if the seals in the hydraulic section are shot..the rack and pinion require a nice heavy grease to lubricate them..so to answer your question yes you can run a PS rack like a manual rack rout the lines together and remove the PS pump (running it empty will screw it up FAST) and grease the rack... but hey that's more work than replacing the rack... If it were me I'd get a parts rack get seal kits A and B for PS rack and reseal that rack, replace tie-rods (as you'll have to take 'em off to get the rack apart) get some whiteline rack bushings and replace that rack with a 'like new' rack..but that's just me...

did you adjust your hand brake?

it's the cover for the oil seperator..you'll notice a PCV hose plugs into it just behind the engine bell housing..OEM gasket is cheap but I don't see why a good high temp rtv sealant shouldn't do the trick..

ok here's my list of parts I've acquired to convert the car in my signature to 'turbo' 1 1988 ea82 MPFI turbo engine with all sensors and engine harness intact 1 LHD GL-10 turbo xmember (I can't use this as my car is RHD but I took it off the parts car anyway) 1 MPFI turbo ECU P/N 22611AA630 three GL-10 fuel lines {main, return and EVAP}(only one needed really to work as a fuel return; carb fuel return is tiny. Carb main fuel line looks the same diameter and material as gl-10 supply line, just happens to enter the engine bay in the stock gl-10 evap line position) 1 turbo downpipe with O2 sensor 1 MPFI fuel pump and lines from tank to underbody where main lines hook up 1 complete wire harness off of an RHD 88+ L-series GT (MPFI, 9.7:1 compression, FWD) almost the same as a turbo harness 1 MAF sensor and air hose to inlet housing on turbo Pressure switches, drop resistors and various misc bits bolted around the shock towers critical for the conversion 1 turbo engine schematic from FSM for 88+ vehicles umm evap canister if you want evap, vapour seperator is already in the carb car (at least it is in mine even though the car came from FHI with no evap provisions on the carb) OK the crossmember cannot be beat to accomodate a turbo up pipe it really is that different, the sway bar mount points and steering rack mount points are made of completely diff. sheet metal welded in to make the dip for the up pipe...solution heh you'll never believe this guys.. Yes you can get an L-series turbo xmember that is RHD OR you can go waaay back in 1985-86 L-series cars and gab the motor mount brackets from the stock ea71 varient that are sloted to fit both the ea82 and ea71 engines, then go grab some 88+ ea71 motor mounts and bolt em up to the brackets (Might require a lil 'adjustment' with grinder) and bolt the assembly up to turbo motor..suddenly the up pipe has room with the teeniest bit of persuasion the ea71 mount combination lets the engine sit higher on the xmember and don't worry the bonnet still closes.. You could build spacers if you wanted.. I've probably left out a few things but you get the idea:brow:

Get the gl-10 Column if you can and the variable speed intermitant wiper box..you'll simply need to splice the gl-10 horn wire into the DL harness (green wire with black stripe) replace the intermitant wiper unit with the gl-10 one, install steering column and voila you have gl-10 steering wheel with tilt adjustment and variable speed intermitant wipers...all other electrical connectors are plug and play..hope that made sense..

As regards to your TD04 mount I believe most guys use what's been termed an 'up a little further' pipe that shifts the td04 up and angles it back.. I believe Garner has an example of this on his TD04 ea82t powered Brat with pictures..

Man Will your having some $#!tty luck with your ride of late.. There some bolts that hold up the sunroof in gl-10s that have a thread cut in them that actually varies in diameter so it scrapes the threads it is screwed into harder than a normally cut screw..these are what I used to bolt my cam gears in place..they screw in tight and are the perfect length (slightly longer than stock but not long enough to bottom out) When you see one you'll see what I'm talking about..

So Will, Your telling me I should really get cracking on the ea82T I have sitting in my back veranda then? I still can't believe I found one down here..

did you bleed with the engine on? if not please do..

Hey will did you have loose roof supports braces in your gl-10 wagon?