PoorManzImpreza

I took my steering knuckle out the car.. removed the bearing side seals, then beat the old bearings out with a chisel (yes a chisel), don't damage that spacer between the two bearings when you do it! Got new sealed bearings the same size as the stock unsealed bearings, positioned the steering knuckle on a piece of wood ontop of a concrete base (read: kitchen step) with the inside of the knuckle facing up, borrowed a nice LARGE socket about a mm outside diameter smaller than the bearings outside diameter got my BFH lined everything up and firmly tapped the bearing in with the socket and hammer until it was firmly seated. I then flipped the knuckle over on it's uneaven side put the spacer back in and repeated the tapping procedure until seated..very easy..and with sealed bearing you don't have to get new seals..Repeat on otherside, install into car and drive..got 20k on the new bearings..

LOL man I've always loved your mutant subs..

get a balljoint puller..please..you'll save yourself much frustration..

higher power, hydraulic lifters, bigger carb, ea82 accessory compatibility, ea81 valves, ea81/82 bell housing compatibility, bigger intake manifold...Late model ea71s were made for 'L-series' 85-94 body style..what guys call ea82 body style on here..

bump

my only advice would be slap some 205/50R15 if your a street sorta guy or higher profile if your not but get your car aligned WITH the pugs on it.. Makes a big difference to how the car will handle IMHO rubbing issues only happen if you put 400lb or so in the back and then let the car go airbourne.. lol don't ask how I know this

LMAO we all need to advance our timing a little..

hey guys got a question, are wagon rear disc brakes bigger in piston than sedan and xt? I know they are for drum brakes..

2wd rear dampers have a higher perch than 4wd..putting 2wd shocks on 4wd swing arms will lift the car higher..the bracket where the lower shock mount is bolted to the swing arm is higher to clear the outer cv joint..

Wow..looks amazing..

What Qman said..My default DL steering wheel came off with a good tug (2 guys tugging) but the GL-10 column I have in now...that required me to break out the puller...

I'll just chime in here briefly.. My brother in law drives a '98 corolla GT has a 20valve 4a-ge not bad..I noticed that the rear discs are actually BIGGER in diameter than the front..when we put new brake bads on it we put TRD pads on the back and some semi metallic stuff on the front..car stops VERY well with almost zero forward squat..other toyotas with drums on the back squat horribly and some even lift in the rear..the lesson here is that more stopping power in the back causes less squat which in turn allows the rear discs to contribute more to stopping the car..for the power levels that some of us are making (read: Will) the stock brakes even with nice pads isn't really up to the task..we REALLY need bigger discs..I also HIGHLY recommend a bigger MC..I'm working on some custom rear discs and a modified front disc from another car..I'm aiming for a bolt on setup..as soon as it's done I'll post pics..Bigger is better than slotted..

Finally..some FMIC action can't wait to see how it turns out

LOL auto?? at least 60% loss get thee a 5 speed!

Y'know..we some broke guys..but damn if we don't seem to get along better than some of the new gen folk... I dunno about you guys but I respect any car that a guy could have two of, one being a street/autox racer and the other being a lifted mud crawling offroad monster and both of 'em essentially being the same car with minor adjustments..show me any other car that can do that at the price but an old gen sub..Respect Due to our 11-20 year old rusted out, banged up, 100k+ subs! And as B. A. from the A-team would say "pity da foo'" who can't see the fun.. Will, I don't think you'll ever get the type of respect you get right here in USMB from any of the newgen fanboys..

ok guys 30% loss....this means that crank hp =100% and wheel hp=30% less than crank or 70% so 70% of the crank HP is getting to the ground..or (wheelhp)/(crankhp)=70/100 or whp/chp=0.7 thus we get Will's equation of chp=whp/.7 or chp=whp*1.429 is correct (to 3 decimal places) assuming 30% loss..chp=whp*1.3 assumes approx 23% loss which doesn't correspond to the loss in a typical subaru AWD/full-time 4wd train...LOL isn't math FUN!

our carbed EJs are almost exactly like a carbed ea in terms of electrical wiring. The disty has vacuum and speed advance..requires no computer..

ahh late model ea71 sounds familiar..Had one of them in my wagon I tried every small change power booster..open element air filter, advanced timing (12-14 degrees BTDC seemed safe on our gas) cut cat out, higher energy coil..it did make a good difference especially the open element filter and the advanced timing...But the biggest power booster I made to my car was tossing out the pushrod ea71 in favor of an ea82..I lost that nice low end torque of the pushrod engine..not too much but a loss still, but gained MUCHO MUCHO in the upper end..rev it to the redline (ok I know you don't have a tachometer..LOL) at gear change real easy and delivers power all the way..something an ea71 just can't do...

I have added a fuel filter close to the carb as I've had the experience of replacing the stock filter and still having gunk in the fuel line caused by the ancient filter that had started to dissintigrate..so even after replacing the filter in the stock location I had to take the carb apart *AGAIN* to clean it... so I just added a filter close to the carb..problem solved

the stock bolts are M10x1mm and 30mm long grade 12 hardness 14mm heads with integral washers but that's for ea82..I'm not sure if ea81 is the same I think it is but not sure..

part #: 26401AA201

Well I thought its about time I posted about this..I recently upgraded to rear discs on my wagon and after the usual pains of bleeding, I had better overall stopping power but my brake pedal felt well..nasty..lots of pedal travel that it never needed and vagueness..bleh but it stopped well enough..So while getting some parts at the dealer I looked up in the legacy parts book to see what the biggest MC ofered was hmmm 1 1/16" but only on ABS cars..so only two brake lines hookin up...scratch that..1" nice.. non ABS cars, even had a three line one for 5 speed legacys with a hill holder.. perfect! So I asked if I could take a look at a brand new ea82 MC and compare it to a brand new legacy MC..and it was a perfect match to the ea82 mount.. So the bad news.. "Oh we don't have the 1" in stock, biggest is 15/16".." bleh now get this guys the 15/16" legacy MC was cheaper than our ea82 MC!! that might only be true down here but who knows... Second bad news "We only got the MC for automatic cars in stock.." hmmm so only four line hook up no three line..but there I am with xmas gift money burning a hole in my wallet so I go ahead and buy it.. Mount and connection issues: 1. Problem: The break fluid level sender has a diff connector than our ea82 cars expect. Solution: I can cut off legacy connector strip wires and splice on ea82 connector..hmm even easier I can remove the legacy sending unit from the bottom of the fluid reservoir and slip the ea82 sending unit in its place..perfect fit problem solved. 2. Problem: The extra brake line fitting on the bottom..I simply used an extra M10x1mm bolt I had knocking around cut it so its shank was about 6mm long then crabbed a copper washer off of a front caliper banjo bolt cleaned it up and then bolted it onto the MC with a little teflon sealant just to be safe..problem solved. the rest of the installation was common to any ea82 manual transmission car. WOW! Firm high brake pedal! more effort yes but the car stops SO much better this made a huge difference to how my car stops and how the pedal feels..For any person out there with rear discs I must inform you that as far as I'm concerned this is now a manditory modification..and get this it seemed, and I admit this isn't objective, that it was easier to bleed!

Will, did you perform the install on your rear lines as well?

I use Dexron III castrol ATF in my PS pump..I also converted from manual to PS and I had a bud turn my steering wheel back and forth back and forth while I poored the fluid in till the fluid stopped dropping as it was poored into the strainer..I had the front wheels off the ground while I did this..then when it was full I had him keep turning lock to lock untill no more air bubbles came up..

the more paranoid guys down here add some extra metal to the clips that hold the pads in the torque plate and also drill the pad for a roll pin to lock the caliper piston in place like the stock pads have..only rattling after that is when the caliper pins are worn (or ball joints or tie-rods or rod ends or... )