PoorManzImpreza

Hey out there down unda I dunno about your specific question, I'd guess yes more fuel, but I dunno if that's cause the full time traction encourages one to floor the gas more or not ;-) I'm interested in some pics of that dual port dual carb engine you got in there..We definetely didn't get them accross the pond and through the canal here in Barbados..sorry for jacking the thread.. I now return you to your regularly scheduled topic..

Actually Barbados is classified as 'second world' or 'developing nation' We take our subs seriously down here be they 2wd 4wd or 3.5wd like mine :-) EJ to 'L-series'...Please use the EJ tranny..alteration to the drive shaft is like nothing 2 most machine shops..and we managed to rig up the shift linkage quite easily on the EJ18 conversion but I'll admit we were only dealing with a fwd tranny.. hmm having really scoped out my LHD parts car I got no idea how Corkey rigged up the hydraulic clutch MC on UltimateRX.. it is bloody easy on RHD cars..I hope someone else attempts this conversion..our poor abused 20 year old cars deserve a good 16valve heart

Carb EJ engines could be had in any SOHC version..the DOHC versions don't have the casting in the right hand side head for the distributor..some SOHC EJs that came EFI had a plug in the head where the disti went some had no hole at all..I never found out whether they had the camshaft with a gear to actually run the disti or not on the efi models..obviously one needs an intake that supports the hitachi carb.. When we did the carb EJ18 it was about as easy as putting another carbed ea82 in there..I should say that we only got EJ18s carburetted anything bigger was efi..strangely only the legacy DL wagons were carbed with a 5speed but the same EJ18 GL wagon had spfi and the ej20 and ej22 cars were MPFI with the 2.2 being labeled Legacy GX and being the only one standard with AWD..

So..this is telling me I really need to hunt down that ea82T that was missing from my GL-10 parts car.... Man oh man stock wrx power from an ea82T... ahh...*continues to dream..*

y'know..I've never heard of a bearing failure on our stock hubs that wasn't related to seal failure and/or grease breakdown...in otherwords our hubs are a$$ strong. I've never seen a hub that uses bearings that big outside of a truck..I keep looking at our cars and I gotta say it took one major pot hole to mess up a ball joint on the family impreza, but I've beaten my car to $#!@ and back on 50 series tires and every front end link is as solid as the day they got redone about 2 years ago..I'm considering getting my pugs widened at the machine shop to restore stock offset, thus allowing me to go up to possibly 245 series rubber..My next step is then some 11x20mm rotors 'adjusted' to mount on the stock hubs with an adapter plate stepping the caliper mount out to the new disc..then 11x10mm rotors once again 'adjusted' to fit on the back..added to that will be the legacy MC @ 1" bore to improve brake feel and performance..for pads; EBC green stuff 'adjusted' with a roll pin to allow the E-brake to function within spec. That should give me extremely good stopping power for our 2600+ lb cars.. I'll let you guys know how it goes.. I know I'd want to put sti stuff on my car but I know our puny MC would feel like mush and fluid volume would be insufficient. I dunno if the sti MC designed to work with abs will integrate easily with our setup without the ABS..I know for sure the legacy part mounts right up so I'd consider that a serious must on that setup..highest bore legacy MC is 1 1/16".. ahh sti...

yeh I've been trying to figure out for ages if the hub and the disc are two pieces like the front xt6 hub or one piece with the wheel studs presses into sorta like the 4wd EA drums...

yeh mine doesn't have any control unit on the power locks, but subaru did one or two things differently between the ordinary ea82 powered cars and the Loyale..Glad I could help

or intall 'em like I did:brow:

They are fed constant power via a 20 amp fuse and they work on a master switch which sends power to all the lock solenoids that are basically connected in parallel. They are switched on the hot side by sending 12 volts to one of two wires depending on whether the solenoid is to be locked or unlocked. There is a third wire that sends a signal back to the dash that tells the driver if the doors are locked or not, and of course the ground wire which is also in parallel with all the lock solenoids. The most dificult thing in our systems for adding keyless entry is that the master switch on the drivers door is just that; an ordinary switch. There is no solenoid on that door lock..What could be done is, if your in a Left Hand Drive vehicle one could acquire the solenoid from the passenger side of a RHD subaru of the same body style that will bolt to the mounts in your door and use the keyless entry as a master instead of the default switch..or you could bend a mirror image to your passenger front door of the steel rod that links the lock solenoid to the lock mechanism and go scavange a lock solenoid from a parts car and hook your bent steel rod up to it.. hope that helped

thanks guys.. Will try to tweak the horn if not I'll rip the horns off my parts car before it goes 2 the junk yard..

Yeh I had observed a while back that the discs were compatible, but our problem isn't the disc its the pressure plate..and while it is possible to machine the flywheel to accept the ej pressure plate I dunno how this will effect the ring gear as it won't be mounted on much material and whether the flyweel would have 2 be shimmed in order for the ej pressure plate 2 make contact with the throw-out bearing on the release fork 2 maintain correct stroke..

Have you guys ever had one horn just give out? I noticed one night after about a week of heavy rain that my right side horn suddenly came on all by itself..It wasn't at its full volume and it was sorta crackly. I went out side in the rain and gave the horn a honk..both horns came on loud and clear and the phantom honk dissappeared..so about a month or so later my car was down for a week or two while the ea71 went out and the ea82 went in. After that I've only had my left horn..only wires I troubled in that area were the wires for the temp sensor and the electric fan..bleh.. any ideas guys?

lol title says it all.. any good semi metallic or such pads available for our rear calipers?

I might add that while all the stock disty curves might help you get your car tuned to run and run reasonably well..MS&EDIS opens up far FAR more tuning and power possibilities that disty based ignition curves ever could... Strongly consider EDIS based ignition..even 88+ ECUs adandoned any kind of mechanical or vacuum advancement and simply used the distributor as a crank angle sensor and to place spark on the correct plug all advance/retard was done by ECU and knock control unit..

LOL ok Let me clear this up..the valve in the pics is a carb fuel bowl vent valve what it does is catch the fuel bowl vapors from the carb and vent them to atmosphere it also prevents raw fuel from escaping the fuel bowl of the carb through the float valve.. Correct hook up is middle connector to fuel bowl on top of carb top connector to intake vacuum source bottom connector to a rubber hose that goes to the left frame rail where the support plate for the engine crossmember mounts you know that hole there in the middle of the plate that goes straight through the frame rail and out the bottom of the engine crossmember... My advice is DO NOT remove it unless you want raw fuel vapor in your engine compartment and in some cases liquid fuel.. the reason why most y'all US of A guys don't recognize it is because up north nearly all the ea82 "L-series" cars had evap emissions control (with evap line charcoal canister vapor seperator and purge solenoid) and that valve didn't exist as far as I know..

The Bluebird used the same piston seal and dust cap as our cars, thus it is the same diameter... I fit the bluebird seals on the subaru piston while I was at the Nissan dealer perfect fit/match... good luck

So imagine how rare an 88 FT4wd 4eat GL-10 wagon with pimp interior is in a Country where 4wd is rare and most wagons are 1.6 DL fwd...like mine WAS

Possible further doner..late model, I think 99 and up, Honda Accord..at least its an Accord down here might be something 'acura' up North..yeh our integra is called a 'Honda Integra' and one can speacial order a type-r but we don't care about crappy hondas we just want brake parts ;-)I gotta chk this out at their parts dept. but visually it looks the same or as close as the nissan parts..def. a tokico part..

I'm trying to figure out what is the difference between locking the rear wheels vs locking the front wheels in a 'locked center diff' arrangement..as far as I can see it amounts to the same thing.....

Woulda helped if I'd actually have checked the mail thanks for the info.. didn't think they would differ by that much..hmmm..

*bump* Just a lil reminder...

run thicker oil

Mucho thanks:)

*bump*

hmm sounds good.. I got a question, why don't you guys call 'ea82' cars 'L-Series' like the rest of the world?