PoorManzImpreza

you know you coulda just removed the roll pin from the pulley and the outer belt drive sprocket and rotated the crank pulley to the correct position..to match your timing specs.. 70 ftlb of torque is MUCH Much more than is needed to keep the pulley from spinning..or am I missing something..?

what about third party exedy/diakin clutch...since exedy makes the stock clutch anyway...

I thought I'd give this an extra bump and give yall an interesting fact..did you guys know our stock gl-10 (barbados) had 140 BHP and a stock oil cooler?

oh man...the things I see on USMB hey that rhymes..

Keep bleeding and do yourself a favour and I know this goes against all documentation, but bleed with your engine ON as in with booster...really made the difference for me..It freaking MOVED the fluid and it seems that's what it needed..damn brake system in manual subs be complex.. hill holder and all that..it seems you need to really get the fluid moving in order to get all the air outta the lines...this was told to me by an 'old skool' mechanic who's been working on subs since the 70s...

What will you do to make the pugs fit under your fenders..mine stick out front and back, front more than the back..the pug offset is extreme...

Don't want the ecsta 712s? they handle very well I'm interested in how your gonna handle flaring your fenders, or trimming them for the pug rims as there's no way in hell they'll fit with your ride lowered like that...but I'm sure you know that Car is shaping up really well Will, almost makes me wish I wasn't in tropical paradise LOL Are you leaving the body kit black?

subGSR not related to subject, but you might find this of interest when communicating with this side of the net... http://www.webenet.com/internetglossary.htm

I would like to recommend the use of sealed bearings..they come pre greased with the correct grease in most cases and you no longer need the inner and outer seals..unless your paranoid like me If I remember the original NSK bearing designation was 6207M I believe the sealed variant with metal seals would be 6207M.2ZR or something like that or you can ask your bearing supplier for the sealed version...If your unsure about grease the metal seals can be easily removed and the original grease flushed with laquer thinners (or similar solvent) and your grease of choice forced in there and the seals snapped back in..

Has anyone actually performed this swap in there ea81/82?? What did you observe? considering doing it myself..

hmm those look like stock ea81 heads with bosses welded to 'em and the stock port stopped up..any industrious guys out there could replicate that...

lol man just seeing those springs makes my back hurt ;-) Let us know how she handles did you ever make any toe corrections?

yup lol you like my friends paint job? btw this was a true ghetto swap engine isn't *quite* sitting the way it should lol

bump pics added guys

as an owner of a late model ea71 (1989) I am wondering what ea81 manifold bolted to it...ea71 manifolds are shorter than ea81 manifolds lol what you might have been thinking is ea82 carbed/spfi and ea81 as they swap quite well and have been the basis of a couple spfi ea81 and a turbo spfi ea81... now the late model (post 1985) ea71s may have had the same carb bolt pattern as ea81/82 carbs but I dunno for sure I'll find out soon enough when my 'new' ea82 engine replaces my good old ea71... as for the jets I'd leave the ea81/2 jets in place...

hey guys wondering if anyone has had this problem..driving along today and all of a sudden my turn signals stop working nothing no left nor right no dash indicator nada..get home after using hand signals (ughh) and chk the bulbs everything checks out as I suspected it would..then I remember 2 try the hazard lights everything works fine flashers clicking all bulbs working..I'm thinking my turn signal switch is busted..btw the head lights still work fine...any ideas?

I know the SRX had dual carbs a hotter cam rear discs 9.5:1 compression bigger ea81 valves, but most late ea71s had the bigger valves..but other than that the manifolds are a direct swap between ea71s..It's a puny manifold and the carbs are tiny..so be warned..

Will, The three bolts that hold the inner arm to the outer arm need to be undone and the bolt holes slotted so you can bolt the inner arm further back with respect to the outer arm..MARK the inner/outer arm posistions Before you start as that'll be your only reference as to how far you move the parts relative to each other and you'll also want to make sure you move the inner arm as parallel as possible to your original position to keep your camber where it is and also so you'll toe evenly on both sides the same amount...BTW the relative ANGLE of the centerlines looking from the side of the car between inner and outer arms adjusts camber..but each adjustment will affect the other..so adjusting toe affects camber etc. Slotting the outer arm holes and keeping parallel to your original position will help to minimize camber change as you adjust toe.. I hope that helps and I dunno if you'll be able to remove enough toe this way but it is the easiest solution...also the outer arm has elasticity to it so keep that in mind if you choose to cut and lengthen it....

If so I'll take pics tomorrow swap took exactly one evening and the next day..I only wish it was in my car! details ea82 engine crossmember adjusted holes ea82 coil and sensor harness (oil pressure, temp etc) ej fwd 5speed tranny ej DOJ on ea82 shaft and outer ea front tranny crossmember adjusted to fit ;-) ej power steering lines mated to ea rack ac compressor on block but inactive carb looks like more modern ea82 hitachi (not the crappy feedback and emission crippled one you guys get ;-)..looks simpler and a bit bigger even though air filter opening is the same size... ea82 fuel pump and lines, carb fed with full pressure no return line although I think that isn't wise... car burns rubber in 4th...and the power is on from way down low right up beyond red line.. engine came out of a '90 or '91 legacy DL and since there was a lonely carbed ea82 engine sitting all forlorn and lonely I took it and will give it a good home anyone got an ea82 flywheel they wanna send on extended vacation in the tropics? pics @ http://photos.yahoo.com/xionprince/

Everytime I see that Brat I lose the ability to communicate logically my undieing enthusiasm towards the fun of Subaru...:burnout:

I'll tell you this my car came from Japan with ONLY PCV and Cat, but heh now it doesn't even have those..but then I'm in a different country;)

if I had climbing gear and a crane to haul it up the 50-100' depth these gullies average in depth..also assuming the shell wasn't crushed by its own mass when it hit bottom...I'll try to investigate and see if I locate it and if it is still in reasonable enough shape to salvage the parts I need..but what sucks even more is I had already lossened all the bolts holding everything in place and had em screwed in finger tight all except the carrier bearing..that was all I had to undo to drop the entire drive line back from the car..and my muffler guy dumps it..bleh..

LOL when things get scrapped here it usually means the guy took the truck to the nearest gully and heaved the scrap over the edge illegally...

lol Will in order for us (me) to be suitibly jealous/lusty over them parts I need to actually be able to see 'em ;-) lil flash next time please? but just based on what I've figured you have already here you go: :slobber:

So guys..my future 4wd parts source got carted to the scrap yard and boy am I unscrewed lol I was *this* close lol think 'Mint condition RX' in place of 4wd and that'll probably give you an approximation of my state of mind.. ARGH!! ah well the quest continues