PoorManzImpreza

Thats a one way valve and vacuum reservoir for the HIVAC vent controls as they are vacuum operated. It just needs a vacuum source from the engine. Under its bracket are the ac and main radiator cooling fan relays I'm glad you got your swap running it looks good and you have a nice clean car to work with ej power belongs in an ea chassis ;-) HTH Kaz

got one of these in my back yard if anyone wants more detailed pics lemme know.. Kaz

Russ, what spc part did you use for the radius/leading rod? Kaz

some gc 4eat axles might do the trick.. Kaz

awesome news Dave where did you mount the G sensor? Kaz

everything the linkage, how well the 4eat driveshaft fits, pics of the fit from the engine bay.. Kaz

more pictures! Kaz

Which dccd controller did you choose? I have experience with Spiider's (dccdpro) controller, FYI. I had forgotten you had a willwood kit on the front. This is so awesome man! How do you like the short JDM gears? (I'm assuming it's jdm since you mentioned RHD linkage) Has it made the car feel slower? Kaz

Saw it on Nasioc and rushed over here. Man I knew it would fit..totally awesome! Lovely that subaru made it match the general size of 4eat! Dave is my Hero! Now Brembos? Bigger turbo? ej257? I assume no dccd? :slobber::slobber: Kaz

awesome my friend awesome.. Kaz

Will the wrx calipers and brackets work with the xt6 knuckles? we needs to know Kaz

OMG...:slobber::slobber: yes 4eat is the same overall size as a six speed I'm betting that with xt6 and six speed crossmember parts one could bolt a six speed into an 87+ ea82...but damn.. into a brat? Holy fabrication batman! Gonna be totally amazing. I can't wait:burnout: Kaz

From what I've seen you need full-time 4wd ea hardware if you want to do ea to ej output shaft gear swapping. What most people don't realize, (but I'm sure Gloyale has realized it) is that an awd ej and fulltime 4wd ea driven shaft assembly is two distinct shafts: an output shaft that has the gears pressed onto it and drives the center diff and a pinion shaft that is supported by bearings inside the output shaft that is driven by one side of the center diff. The pinion shaft spins freely inside the output shaft. This is why part-time 4wd driven gear sets can't be pressed onto full-time/awd outpt shafts. HTH Kaz

I've rebuild a couple power steering racks and what they don't tell ya is you need a press to get the rack assembly back together..it was the only way I could get the new inner seal to go into its seat. The pinion shaft was easy with sockets and a press as well. The grease I used was a crc extreme pressure marine grease was red, thick and nasty. So far so good..zero leaks now, would go through a quart of atf in a month before. hth Kaz

This is why I love USMB Kaz

Glad to see your making progress on this Russ, I know how it is to have zero time for the things you love to do. What modifications to the xt6 crossmember do you have to do? I was under the impression that one simply had to swap the center section of the ej mount with the center section of the XT6 mount and it bolted right in..? anyway hang in there I'm looking forward to updates as they come. Kaz

ditto

If you have a 90 legacy then your engine would most likely be an ej22. All n/a legacy have a push type clutch while turbo vehicles, for the most part, have pull type clutches. This means that a 2003 wrx clutch KIT will NOT fit a n/a 90 legacy. If your car is AWD and it's just the clutch DISK then that might work using your stock flywheel and pressure plate, but be warned the wrx clutch disc is 5mm bigger in diameter than the standard N/A clutch disk; 230mm vs 225mm. HTH Kaz

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97074

page 2: hmm again: what IS Kaz up to?: more: More ball joint goodness: hmm the third: PoorManz Solution?: XT6 rear hub in Legacy H6 rear brake disc: upside down you turn me..: Legacy front hub/knuckle next to XT6 rear hub: and for fun wrx disc on legacy hub: WRX rotor next to L-series rotor: L-series rotor doing inappropriate things to WRX rotor: Phew..again.. Kaz

So there have been many questions concerning what fits what so I've begged my sister to borrow her digital camera so I can take these pictures: Tie rod ends from left to right; Impreza/legacy late model, legacy/impreza early model, L-series(ea82), and finally ea81: Same, sideways: ea81 rod end installed in legacy steering knuckle/hub: L-series rod end held in legacy knuckle: legacy rod end in legacy knuckle: Impreza rod end in legacy knuckle: ea81 rod end in L-series knuckle: ea81 rod end in l-series knuckle up close: Rusty L-series rod end in brand new L-series knuckle: Same up close: legacy/Impreza/XT6 ball joint next to L-series ball joint: Same, side by side: legacy and L-series knuckled ball joint hole: L-series ball joint is too small to 'satisfy' Legacy knuckle (every subaru enthusiast must prove his/her commitment in blood): This is just wrong lol...: Legacy and L-series knuckles like ebony and ivory side by side with balljoints..harmony: Legacy balljoint in L-series Conrol Arm: L-series ball-joint in the correct location: What's that thing in the legacy knuckle?: hmmm: page 1...

wow can't edit my original post..ain't that grand?:-\ Kaz

will do...pity the new server didn't keep the photos.. Kaz

I typed a nice long paragraph and lost it to crappy 'net.. :-\ Anyway, just to clarify: 4wd EA car with ER/XT6 rear hub unaltered EJ backing plate, handbrake setup, rotor and caliper. Rguyver used an r180 setup on his brat, for those that don't know the r180 STI setup has bigger diff, axles and hubs thus the backing plate centering hole is bigger than r160. The r180 hole is bigger than the bolt pattern for EA/ER hubs thus rguyver simply welded a ring inside the r180 backing plate with the ea pattern drilled into it and bolted the assembly up. R160 backing plate center hole is a hair over 10mm larger in diameter than the ea/er mounting hole, thus the ea holes have to be drilled into the ej r160 backing plate. Th ej backing plate fits flush to the EA hub/trailing arm, there is no spacer between them. What I have done is simply made a ring with ea inner diameter and ejr160 outer diameter that makes up the difference in diameter as well as a plate that sits outside the ej backing plate. These are the full dimensions of what I fabricated minus one alteration I did when I actually went to put averything together and forgot that I needed to make room for the movement of the lever that controls the handbrake shoes: There were a few things I wanted to acheive: Reversibilty: If at some point I ever dump my car and went ej any alteration I did to the r160 backing plate couldn't prevent it from being returned to an ej car Safety: Must be as safe as stock No welding Must be able to fabricate with simple electrical/hand tools (...who was I foolin'?) No unblocked holes in the ej backing plate: This explains the unusual shape of the adaptor plate Must be compatible with an ABS backing plate, crossbred kit is NOT (no you still can't mount and ej abs sensor) and finally Must be freely availible to all who are as insane as I am:lol: The prototype is made of 6mm aluminium. I will update here with the actual method and more pics (Please, Sis, can I borrow your camera again?) as well as complete DXF files and DWG for those that desire to do the smart thing and take the damn design to their nearest cnc water/laser/3 axis machine and have it do in seconds what I did with my hands a jig saw a drill press and a bench grinder.. damn anyone actually gonna read all that? Kaz

Much much more to come, but here are my teaser pics of 2003 JDM wrx twin piston (two pot) brakes on my 1989 'L-series' using my custom and hand fabricated (HIGHLY recommend having them machined!) adaptor plates: Kaz