PoorManzImpreza

just one thing..you need to press the bearings outer race from that ej knuckle...hope it works out with your project.. Kaz

when I had my engine apart and got it back together I had clatter from hell and it was taking for ever to go away..so after waiting a half hour for it 2 go away, I revved the engine up 2 3k and held it there for 12 minutes and each minute they got quieter and quieter until the clatter vanished completely...

I'd be interested in knowing where and why the harness failed..if I recall XT harnesses run under the carpet to the ECU in the trunk..this isn't the 1st wire failure of an xt..check for moisture and corrosion.. Kaz

lol still laughing... :burnout: Kaz

1st I shift @ 6k, second 5-6k 3rd well erm 5k and um 4th same if I have enough road.. spirited driving: until the valves float lol Kaz

Turbo and NA connecting rod bearings are different. Main bearings are the same going right through ea81-ea82. I do agree however that aftermarket bearings listed for both turbo and n/a might be as good as the oe turbo bearings.. I don't know this as fast so..who knows? Anyone know where I can get .25mm over clevite 77 rod bearings from?Rockauto lists std..good site btw has mucho subaru stuff Kaz

thanks for your comments, normally I'd agree with you but this is a distinction across all L-series and XTs irregardless of year between turbo and N/A this can't be attributed to lot differences so u see my concern...anyway I'm hoping I can find something aftermarket that might be even cheaper than the n/a bearings, cuz they ain't cheap either...I know I know I'm cheaping out..meh 250 is the same price as what I got the entire engine for..

They share all dimensions and tolerances but they are not made of the same material.. The turbo crank shaft is also a different part number..and the euro turbo crankshaft is even different than usdm..So I'm a bit concerned about just slapping the NA bearings in and calling it done..one does not want to go back into a freshly build block anytime soon, afterall Kaz

Hey Guys 'n' Gals, Any recommendations for good aftermarket main and con. rod bearings for turbo block? I can't figure why genuine turbo con. rod bearings are so arse expensive! turbo 12108AA090: MSRP $250.00 wtf? NA 12108AA000: MSRP $92.00 I mean I know they need to be stronger but damn... Kaz

'L-series' is the official factory name for any ea82 body car from 85-94 It's trade name was 'Leone' in most countries around the world.. Kaz

XT and XT6 share driveline pick-up point compatibility with rx/gl/gl loyale range xt6 front end is different to allow the er27, but everything suspension and drivline related will bolt between the cars, even the er27 with some 'adjustments'... Body wise that is where it stops..don't think a single piece of xt sheetmetal will bolt and function on a gl/dl/rx/loyale/leone/L-series

they also make the world famous defi guages that cost more than our cars..and STILL make the stock subaru instraments.. Kaz

hydraulic clutch it is pull type like all factory subaru turbo trannys in the ej lineup except the most current wrx.. it also uses its own slave cylinder so make sure it is provided with your box if u choose 2 go 6 speed What you will need is the following: Ring and pinion for your r160 rear diff to match 6 speed front, u might luck ut and have a legacy with a 3.9:1 ratio in your rear diff already, that is the most common final drive for 6 speeds but not the only final drive so keep that in mind Shift Linkage from 6 speed 6 speed clutch, pressure plate, shifter fork, slave cylinder and flywheel 6 speed gearbox crossmember 6 speed front axles..depending on what year you get your 6 speed from your legacy axles might work drive shaft from an AUTOMATIC Legacy if u get a DCCD 6 speed you will have to use the aftermarket neetronics or equiv. controller to control the center diff lockup, as DCCD uses STI ABS components to fuction correctly and I have no idea how compatible that is with legacy stuff and even if it is it will require extensive custom wiring oh and 6 speed gearbox, of course HTH Kaz

6 speed shares most of it's major fit dimensions with 4eat so technically it could be shoe-horned into any vehicle a 4eat could.. Kaz

Just on a note.. I have a DL wagon as well I have a bud who owns a wrx and when he got the car he flushed the PS system and put in fancy expensive PS fluid after a bit he'd complain that after spirited driving he'd lose Power assistance to different degrees..when he mentioned this to me he hadn't mentioned that he'd filled up on ps fluid.. He finally did, so I told him you know FSM specs atf dexron III as correct Power steering fluid for our cars so he has his mechanic (why is it that most new gen owners don't work on their own cars? lol) flush the system and install ATF. The problem dissappeared..

:lol: so...how about translating..some BGD to human english translation would be good.. and lol enough playing with dipsticks, guys (and girls, tsk tsk Connie)..cars don't swing that way.. Kaz :burnout:

lol I was wondering how long it'd take 2 post this over here.. Can't we unban Bgd and just flag all his posts as comedy? Kaz

sooo...thought I'd be the first to say this..ej257 swap? nothing like a free car... Kaz

just one lil nit pick...WAY 2 much grease... Kaz

:slobber: OMFG Pure subaru Sex On Wheels! :burnout: Kaz

I don't think your gonna find anything better than crossbred's kit.. however I e-mail'd crossbred to enquire on the cost of JUST the adapter boss that allows both the centering and fitment of the ej backing plate to the ea trailing arm and the cost quoted is: $375.00 AUD!! :eek: right..well at least the ej rear disc fits like a condom on the xt6 hub.. Kaz

I haven't stopped laughin...dunno if this has been posted or who did it but http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nP5e662kEsQ

umm Will your math don't add up..if a wrx has a 3.7 front diff and a 3.545 rear diff then that results in an aprox 1:1.04 center not a 1:1.1..a 3.9:1 front and 3.545:1 rear DOES however result in a 1:1.1 center..unless my math is wrong...so either the wrx doesn't have a 1:1.1 center or the rear final drive isn't 3.545 or the front diff isn't 3.7... I've widely read that the USDM wrx has 3.9:1 front 1:1.1 center and 3.545 rear before '06

oe man myself wix if oe is out of stock... Kaz

If you had 17" wheels '04 sti brembo fronts would bolt on...the back would bolt on with a shoe and bracket kit from god speed racing out of UK as the drum section of sti e-brake is a bigger diameter, either that or a custom rotor that is available via aftermarket, tho' u'd still need a bracket to adapt the caliper... that would be about your biggest factory part upgrade u could put on your RS.. Kaz