PoorManzImpreza

so so very true..

ej15 is still in production the latest incarnation has dohc heads and makes 10 more BHP than ej16..lol

hmm should work..you'll need ea82 rod ends as ea81 won't fit the ea82 knuckle I have no idea of the length difference, if any, tho' Kaz

Check to make sure nothing got caught in the bell housing and is rattling against the ring gear..had a bud (granted this was a wrx) the metal guard that is bolted to the bottom of the bell housing had bent slightly..so much so that the car was perfectly quiet when it was elevated but when u put it on all four the racket sounded almost exactly like that..bent the bracke straight with a screw driver problem solved.. could be the turbo bearings as others suggest, but I'm not hearing the delay I'd expect to hear after the throttle was closed and the engine idled back down, if the turbo had spun up it'd still be spinning down after the engine returned to idle..this sound is tracking engine rpm almost linearly..

I have pictures of a carbed ej18, distributor and all if you want 2 see em..

looks like RS equipment... Kaz

Nice! We need a 'stop on a dime, nine cents change' smiley... Kaz

very very nice..any reason why you didn't go 3 all the way back? and is that a 5 speed? sweet man just sweet always loved an ea81T Kaz

don't ea81s have a special hieght adjustment bolt on a lever in the middle of the crossmember containing the torstion bars? As far as I know u just go under the car and crank this bolt and it adjusts ride height..

I have ea81 ends bolted to my legacy knuckles compared the two tie rod ends, legacy and ea81, 2 each other they have the same taper, thread pitch etc the ea81s are shorter.. by just about an inch...

ea81 tie rod ends RHS:731320000 and LHS:731320010 cost me 50 bucks and change for both. Bolts up like subaru lego should, rack centering and toe adjustment restored.. no brainer.. Love the brakes Will some pics through the wheel please? :headbang: Kaz

you know..FSM shows exactly how the timing belts must be positioned to get disty installed right everytime...and no I'm not talking about the belt timing marks.. ie the position the cam pulleys are when no 1 is at TDC..and yes if you reinstalled timing belts you could easily position them with the disty 180 degrees off where it was before.. Kaz

looks good Will, very good, Kaz

just remember 86 and earlier cars have many differences to 87 and later cars especially with regards to efi.. Kaz

ea81 tierod ends are much better to use with legacy/xt6 front knuckles on ea8* cars because they are shorter and allow full adjustment of toe and steering center btw xt6 and early legacy share the same tie rod end...31320GA190 RHS and 31320GA200 LHS and ball jount 21067GA050 Legacy/impreza rear discs fit perfectly on XT6 rear hubs but naturally require an adaptor plate to relocate the caliper bracket to fit the larger disc.. I see no reason why reaming out an ea8* lower arm to fit the legacy/xt6 ball joint is any issue, plenty of meat on the boss in the control arm, but if you want bolt up you'll need the xt6 lower arms..they also have the bigger RX tension/compression or leading rod.. If one purchaces crossbredperformance's adapter bosses for the rear backing plate the legacy/impreza backing plate and caliper mount is almost bolt on which means any legacy/impreza rear upgrade would also be an ea8* upgrade as well as the rear handbrake shoe setup.. Also Legacy or impreza knuckles in the front from any year (04 backwards if using sti parts ) means front brake upgrades all the way up to 04 sti brembos...and no adjustment to the shock absorber mount bracket required to fit legacy/impreza struts to xt6 knuckles.. As proved by suberdave, legacy coil-overs for late model legacies with the non impreza 5 link require minor modifications to bolt to ea82 bodies...again as long as you use the legacy/impreza front knuckles.. Kaz

what about the ea82 factory euro oil cooler? got part numbers if you want to check..?

Steve, sounds like you need a surge tank..the gs are causing the intank surge to lose it's fuel so naturally your pump sucks up air and fuel this causes lean condition and fuel starvation and major hesitation..also if your running the stock fuel system feeding the injectors it is known to have bias issues between left and right banks....that's my theory anyway.. hth, Kaz

Dissassembly: 1 remove half shaft from car 2 clean axle shaft 3 place in vice with wood lining or equiv. 4 remove inboard DOJ (Double Offset Joint) boot clamps 5 slide boot down the shaft towards the center or cut it off if not re-using 6 using a small flat head screw driver or equiv., remove inner race retaining ring from grove in DOJ housing this is just inside the DOJ housing and prevents the inner race and axle shaft assembly from falling out/being removed from inboard DOJ 7 place a cloth around DOJ and remove the DOJ housing from the remainder of the axle shaft assembly and place it big end up on a flat surface. The cloth is to prevent liquified grease and/or worn ball bearings from falling all over the place (them balls can bounce!) usually if the balls drop out it is considered and indication of a worn DOJ 8 clean as much grease as possible from the inner race and using an outside snap-ring pliers or equiv. remove the snap ring and slide the inner race from the axle shaft splines. Keep parts organized. 9 slide DOJ boot off of axle shaft and disgard or place with other parts preferably in the cloth with the rest of the vile grease if reusing 10 Remove boot clamps from Outboard Joint; BJ (Bell Joint) and slide boot off the shaft. 11 rotate BJ through its range of motion looking for any binding or any sudden stiffening of the joint. If the grease in the joint pours out it's safe to say the joint will be worn, how much depends on how long it's been opperating in this condition. 12 flush all parts with solvent cleaner removing all grease and dirt form the parts 13 inspect all balls and races for pitting, gouging rust or any deformation 14 remove axle from vice and go find a two foot long 2x4 made of very hard wood or equiv. drill a hole about 2" in from one end on the center line. Slip axle shaft through the hole and retighten in in the vice so the BJ is facing down with the wood resting on it. place other end of 2x4 on something strong so the wood is parallel to the floor. Make sure the vice is very tight 15 get BFH (Big you know what Hammer) and strike the 2x4 as close as possible to the BJ side as hard as you can. 16 usually one or all of the following will happen: the BJ will be driven off the axle shaft, the 2x4 will break (damn u strong) or the axle shaft will slip in the jaws of the vice. 17 Sometimes a sacrificial inner race can be placed on the inboard splines with it's retaining c-clip and that used to prevent the axle shaft from sliding out of the vice, slide the shaft down so the inner race is flush with the vice and readjust whatever you had supporting the other end of the 2x4 so it is level and have at it with the BFH, this has worked for me but it could damage the splines so I don't recommend it. 18 If all else fails get your angle grinder and a metal cutting wheel and cut the BJ from the shaft very carefully so you don't damage the axle shaft in any way (I've done this as well) Assembly: 1 acquire new outboarb BJ usually comes in a kit with grease, boot clamps retaining ring, axle nut, boot and cotter pin, if your smart you'll toss the grease, boot and clamps in the bin and go buy a new subaru genuine boot and some hose clamps of the correct size to replace the boot clamps. I've used high strength moly fortified grease texaco brand I can recall now lol and I've used sta-lube (CRC) moly fortified grease as well..had horrible results with the grease that comes with the joints and the boots..this is where you get reliability with rebuilding axles and reasonably priced componenets (read cheapish) I normally use GCK outboard joints. 2 slide boot onto axle shaft from BJ end with big end of boot face out 3 place retaining ring in groove on the axle shaft 4 Inject grease inside the splined inner race of the new BJ until it is filled 5 press grease into the balls and cage of the BJ 6 slide BJ onto axle shaft compressing retaining ring, sometimes you need to give a light tap with BFH to get it to go past the retaining ring. DO NOT hit hard or the BJ will go to far onto the shaft and the retaining ring will miss it's seat in the inner race of the BJ that locks it on the shaft and you'll have $#@ time correcting this 7 if you've used enough grease when the BJ slides onto the axle shaft grease will get squeezed passed the balls and cage of the BJ. 8 squeeze about 2.5 oz of grease into the boot you slid on the shaft earlier and slide the boot towards the BJ and slide it onto the BJ so it fits nicely in the grove 9 make sure the small end is also in its groove on the axle shaft 10 burp air out of the boot by place small flat bit screw driver under lip of boot until the pressure is equalized 11 remove excess grease and place hose clamps over the retaining areas on the boots and tighten down 12 assembly of DOJ is reversal of dissassembly, use new grease and new boot and hose clamps as required..DOJ do ware but not as much as BJ so you might be able to get away with reusing the joint again if DOJ assembly rotates without corresponding rotation of axle shaft the joint is worn, if balls fall out of the cage when removed the joint is worn..GCK also makes DOJs.. 13 place newly rebuilt half shaft back into car, repeat as needed.. Having said all of that do yourself a favor and head down to your local wrecker, PAP etc and find yourself some used Subaru (NTN) half shafts with good boots and tight joints and repack them with grease and new boots and call it done... HTH, Kaz

did the ea82 blow up? or was it just tuning issues? good luck with the ej convo Will

doesn't the VLSD have a special liquid that those plates are immersed in?

man..car porn..yes..open that hood...shake that FMIC..spool that turbo for me.. awesome job...man wish I could feel how she pulls..

like a time machine..very sweet!

Can't forget that one still needs xt6 hubs (or bratgeebah) for the back even if one uses ej stuff for the front, in fact I recommend the ej stuff if you sort out the rear handbrake using honda/240sx calipers or bratgeebah's adaptor plates and more ej stuff, bigger brakes is good!

Installed a set of these on a buds WRX after seeing them in action on another buds STI..They are the best guages I've ever seen..very precise very fast..I should also mention that nippon-seiki make the stock guages in all subarus, well from 85 onwards dunno about ea81s and ea71s but I assume so.. On a late model STI the stock guages actually PERFECTLY match the defi guages including opening and closing ceremonies, red colour and lens shape..you can set a shift light as well... Will is crazy, but not cuz his guages cost more than his car..

according to the FSM XT6 has a 15/16th MC ea82 have a 13/16+1"