Rust

It is frustrating, after flushing the motor with risoline,ATF fluid, seafoam, or whatever is on hand I run the thinnest oil I can get, usually 5w30. Good luck, If you ever find the magic cure for the TOD, let us know.

The designers were smoking an extra rich mixture when they layed out the pattern for these door cards. Thats some pretty spectacular classic 70's naugahyde right there.

Looks like "J.B." wrote his initials in blood on the firewall after slicing his finger, then he decided to install a billboard size fan warning sign. Dig the CB radio. If you decide to keep that car invest in some sort of indoor storage, they very quickly turn to crap when left in the elements.

The easiest "trade tree mechanic" trick to test for a bad alternator or generator is to remove the negative battery strap once the car is running. If the the engine dies, you have a bad alternator/generator. If it stays running you probably have a crappy battery or a bad wire somewhere.

Well I have not tried swapping distributors or fuel pump. The stumbling has not been as bad lately. Since I did all the swapping of plugs/coli/wires/ect.. it now primarilly stumbles when accelerating from 1-3 gears. 4-5 gears not so much. It also stumbles on de-acceleration in 5th gear going down hills(but no back fire.) Basically it is running beter than before, but not as good as I would like it, but also not so bad that I have to fix it. Its doing it's job of running like a bear (but with a splinter in it's paw) Unless it gets worse I will keep on driving it. Perhaps there was/is a clog somewhere in my fuel line that is slowly workingh its way free.

my old 1985 brat had it, my 86 and 87 brats do not.

Mine usually fall off on thier own thanks to all the free salt the state throws on the roads, saves $ on sawzall blades. The only expense is replacing the speakers in the stereo after blowing them up to cover up exhaust noise. Give it an extra romp for me when your tooling through a residential area after the bars close. Be loud, Be proud !

The engine idles normally. I will check the intake gaskets. I'm leaning towards the fuel pump as the culprit. while it is virtually brand new (less than 6 months) it is a generic el'cheapo unit designed for a ford f-150. Perhaps the quality inspector at the factory in mexico, or whatever 3rd world country this part was made in, was out back having a siesta when this turd was dropped in a box for shipment to the USA. Or the 5 yr old child assembling it, stuck his chewing gum inside it.

I love how all the early subaru rear licence plate light covers are broken. Subaru should have installed a warning label "NOT A TRUNK HANDLE" . I also love how you west coast guys note inner fender lip paint bubbling as a rust issue. If that car lived on the east coast it would be a scaley pile of driveway chips right now. Great car, keep it going.

Well so far I have swapped out the following parts: Coil plug wires plugs fuel filter cap/rotor Air Control Valve I have also checked the timming, and done experiments running it a litte advanced, and a little retarded. End result..................still running like poo. Stumbling on acceleration, stumbling at cruising speeds. When swapping the plugs they all looked pretty clean, so I dont think one of the cylinders is bad. So what is left that could be bad, Vacuum leak? bad distributor?

take the wheel off and look for clean/shiney metal on your brake caliper. That will show where the rub is. My guess is a sticking caliper.

Nothing runs like a Deere

Oh wait, here you go.

Looks like you need the optional loyale post hole digger, and paint your car john deere green.

It depends on what your definition of trashed is. If the carpet has huge holes, I would replace it with some alternative carpeting material. If it is stained/soiled a little elbow grease can go a long way. I was able to re-use my carpet by just scrubbing/cleaning it really thouroughly. If after cleaning it , it is still discolored you could dye it.

This topic should be stickied, I agree w/ GD whatever you do it's a crapshoot. I have 3 ea82 cars that see regular use. They have all had the TOD at some point. My biggest success is feeding the engine a seafoam/ATF/risoline cocktail. On 1 of my cars the TOD has not returned after a cocktail flush (this car at 60,000). Another car it has come back after 15,000 miles, but after another cocktail flush it went away (this car is at 170,000) and the third car it it comes back on a pretty regular basis. This car has also had a new oil pump and seal as well as the cocktail treatment. The TOD came back quiker after the pump/seal replacement, than with the cocktail flush. This car usually requires a cocktail flush every other oil change to keep the TOD at bay. (this car is at 300,000) Bottom line the older the engine the more the TOD is going to be a regular issue. My personal opinion the cocktail flush is just as effective as a seal/pump replacement. I would not replace the pump/seal unless there was a pressure issue. I have spent a whole saturday replacing an oil pump only to have the TOD soon return, v.s. spending around 45 min, to do the cocktail flush and have the TOD stay away for much longer.