Rust

My 1977 Sedan

The general rule of thumb for dialing in a motor as I know it is the following order. 1. set valves(make sure engine is cold) 2. set timming 3. set carb.

It is easier to pull or simply tip the motor forward to do the job. However if you are an ultimate cheapskate(like me) and don't want to buy New radiator fluid and new y-pipe gaskets it can be done w/o removing the engine or y-pipe. I fabbed up a piece of flat sheet metal and bolted it to the enginge guard to act as a shelf to slide the tranny off of the motor.

Judging by the corrosion on your battery terminals, I'd clean that up and all your other connections to the starter. You may also need a new battery. Sweet ride...drive it until the wheels fall off.

Seems worth a try. The way I view the issue is that the control arms need to be pushed out about an inch to reduce the positive camber. Lowering the whole assembly may do it.

http://providence.craigslist.org/cto/2930872863.html Not something you see 4sale too often. Did someone cut the roof out?

Not sure if I want to cut and lengthen my control arms, I'll probably end up ruining them. What about using control arms from a EA81 era gen 2 car? I'm realy hesitant about making mods because aside from the tire wear issue the front end is super tight and straight. The car rolls down the highway at 75mph with no wobble or drifting issues, the allignment is nuts on. I do have an ample supply of tires and rims, I guess for now I'll just keep rotating them.

Well I'm about to mount another set of front tires (again) from too much pos camber wear. I noticed there are 2 adjuster nuts on the strut tower(right below the spring cup bottom) Looked it up in the manual and they are identified as ride height adjusters. Since the sping bottom cup/plate is sittig right on top of the nuts, it looks like the only adjustment is up(compressing the springs up). I need to lower the car to move more towardz zero camber. Anyone have experience with these adjuster nuts? How can I make the front end lower to get rid of this pos camber chewwing up my tires?

Looks like you found a couple of Honda Z's also. Love the side pipes on that blue one!

I recently did a oil pump seal replacement 2 months ago on a ea82 with only 55,000 miles. Unfortunately It did not fix the valve tick issues. The following did work for me. Did this about a month ago. 1. Drained all the oil. 2. Filled the engine with 1 qrt 10w30 oil 2 qrts ATF 1/2 can seafoam. 3. let engine idle for 1/2 hour (tick went away after 20 min.) 3. drained the pan refilled it w/ 10/w30. 4. let it idle for another 15 min. Then drained the pan again. 5. refilled the engine with a new oil filter and 10/w30. That was about 2,500 miles ago and the tick hasn't returned, yet. Kinda wish I had done this first before spending an afternoon wrenching in a new set of seals. But new seals are important.

http://pdfrepairmanual.com/ heres the link to the website.

Found a cool web site that might help others. They also have one for servicing a 4wd ea82 tranny http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/joecamel90/2010-05-25_215749_belt.pdf These instructions are better than the haynes manuals. Happy wrenching!

I replaced one of the rear tires, and it has settled down a bit. Still getting some vibrations around 60mph, but not as violent as before. Checked the whole car for loose susspension bolts/parts ect. everything fine. I've noticed the shakes are more dominant when car is maintaining speed or deceleration. When the car is under load(going up hill grades) shakes are less. Definitely have some steering wheel vibration. Going to try a different set of front wheels next. Bad ball joints???? How can you test them to see if they are bad?

I'll probably try swapping the rear tires tonight. Hopefully that will fix it.

My 1986 ea82 3speed auto fwd wagon has some bad vibrations going over 55mph. The front cv joints are good and the wheel bearings were replaced fairly recently. I think it is from the rear end. The rear struts are old and not that great. Could bad rear struts cause car vibrations/shakes? Any ideas?

Yeah I'd rather not tear into the dashboard, I'll probably end up running my own guage......less work than chasing down a loose wire.

Can't get my dashboard oil pressure guage to work. Tried swapping out different sender units....no luck. I have a few generic sender units in my parts bin, can that be used or does it have to be subaru only? I'm used to not even having a guage on my loyale, so I guess I can live without it. Any other ideas?

So it sold for $225 more than his craigslist price. He probably could have squeezed a little more out of it if he put a little more effort into cleaning it up. A little armorall goes a long way. Note to future flippers of this car if your going to take a pic of the odometer, at least wipe away the dust on the screen first. In any event nice base start for a restoration, congrats to the new owner.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-/140711437177?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item20c30e2379#v4-47 That didn't take long.

I know there is supposed to be a certain ammount of pos. camber, but I can slip a credit card under the inner tread on both front wheels????. It is literally riding on the outer tread edge, and I'm chewing up tires like crazy. I'll look again at the bushings of the lower arm. I'm thinking about putting some fabbed up shims in the ball joint mount to the lower arm to get it to sit straighter up. Its either that or compress the front springs to get in to sit straighter. P.S. toe in is fine, and it rolls straighter than most subarus I own.

It is stock, no lift. I'm thinking maybe it had the wrong ball joints put on it???. Both front tires are leaning out (pos. camber). I actually blew out a tire the other day from it riding on the outer half of the tread. Nothing looks bent, and the car has never been hit, and both front wheels are out of camber. No shimmy or shakes on the highway either. I'm stumped.

Can camber be adjusted on the front wheels for a 1979 4wd wagon? I have some positive camber issues(Both tires are wearing on the outer tread). I haven't measured for toe-in, but the wear marks don't look like this is the issue. I have a new set of meats and i'd like to get it sorted out before mounting them. Any ideas?