Rust

[attach]9065[/attach] [attach]9066[/attach] Winter beater.

http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/classicamx/jeep-sub/jeep-sub.htm Happy reading.

thanxs for the tip. Looked like I might be able to access it through the trunk. Right now just running the car and not filling up more than 5 gallons at a time. I guess the big trick now will be getting that hose off w/o getting any rust/dirt/crap falling into the tank.

Southern New England, where rust is plentyful and vintage jap cars are not. I'll post more pics after the upgrades. P.S. I plan on driving this in the winter. Rust and salt doesn't scare me.

Picked up a 1986 4dr sedan for parts. Runs so good I may just use if for a while...but if you fill it more than half a tank of gas, it leaks gas at the filler neck. Can you swap the filler neck hose without dropping the whole tank?

New to the stable 1979 4wd. Soon to come set of flat spoke jackmans and a westfalia roof rack.

1.Brush guard/push bar or square type front bumper(with the grill overrider bar) for a gen 1 car (4wd). I plan on building my own, but if I could find the factory option one, I'll take it. 2. Gold carpet for a gen 1 wagon, original floor mats would also be cool.

I agree running thinner oil/additives does not solve the problem. After I replaced the oil pump seal last year it continued to tick, then I started running the synthetic 10/30 w/ risoline. It went away after that but here it is a year later and the tick is back. I replaced the cam O rings a few years back. Since my cam seals and oil pump seals are (relatively) new I think the clog is in the lifter seats/buckets. I guess I was hoping to find magic in a can (seafoam/gunk/marvel/ect) to clean out the clogs. But I know I am going to have to tear appart the heads to fix it.

Replaced the oil pump seal last year and have been running synthetic 10w30 plus a qrt of Risoline at every oil change. Valve tick went away but it is comming back intermittently. Temp and oil pressure is good. Thinking of flushing the entire engine with seafoam or Gunk motor flush. Any other ideas......????? I don't think tho oil pump or seal is the problem, maybee the pick up tube in the pan is clogged or something else is blocking the oil from getting to the heads....???? Any suggestions or ideas?

Can you use a pump assembly with a domed end(DCJ306-15 ea81) in a ea71 carb (DCJ306-8). The 306-8 pump has a flat end with a small cup for the ball. If no.... any tricks to replacing the leather cups without destroying them in the process. The 306-15 pump also has a spring behind the leather cup, the 306-8 does not.

1977 DL 2dr sedan EA71 3spd Auto. Bone Stock except for loyale alternator, GL rally wheels, and vw headlight eyebrows. "The Silver Bullet" There is vintage jap metal rolling in the hills of the quiet corner!

There are 2 dipsticks for your trans. The front one(near the engine dipstick) gets filled w/ gear oil. the back one (drivers side) gets filled w/ the red auto tranny fluid. Sounds like someone filled it incorrectly. My 77DL 3speed auto had the wrong fluid in the rear, drained it, flushed it, re-topped it....runs great.

Experiencing hard starts and running like crap on rainy days. Runs fine after warm-up. Before I spring for new spark plug wires and dizzy cap, is there any wires/connections comming off the coil or elsewhere that I should explore first? i just don't want to throw new plugs/cap/wires at it only to have it still have hard starts on rainy mornings. Any feed-back or ideas appreciated. This problem only happens in rainy weather.

liquid nails worked for me.

my check engine light has been on for the past 3 yrs on my 93 loyale. The car runs fine and I've passed emissions twice. My 86gl has the check engine light flashing for the past 6 yrs. I should investigate but I'm too busy fixing other stuff that I know is broken.

I have a dealer key chain and gift box, and a gen 1 trailer hitch. I also had a leone/loyale bug deflector. Don't know if it was manufactured by subaru, probably not. Unfortunately it got smashed when I hit a deer. On the lookout for the Brat snow plow package, and an original subaru brush guard wench.

Can a 1993 loyale heater core be repaced w/o removing the dash? The heat works but its not great.

Yes GSP is junk. but I still couldn't wrap my head around the fact that 2 brand new axle assembelies could be junk right out of the box. The common sense of me thought it must be the bearings or something else. Today I re-booted an old axle, and replaced the second brand new axle. Car runs great now. I have had good luck with other afermarket CV shafts, glad I didn't have to replace the bearings.

pre ea81 motors the fuel pump runs off current from the generator. There is a proceedure for bypassing that system so it runs off the ignition. I would hotwire the pump to the battery to check if it is good first. If it runs good off the hotwire then there is probably an issue w/ the current supply from the generator.

pluged in another ignition, problem fixed.

yes, I'm experienced in replacing axles, yes the washer was installed correctly. I too thought I didn't torque the nut enough, but I re-torqued it twice and the noise persists. the axles are gsp brand. I guess i will swap out the bearings next. I don't understand why the cvaxle would make noise if the bearings were bad? Usually when bearings go bad you hear a louder constant noise. the noise I am getting is from the cv axles and it is intermittent and not too loud. Thanxs for the feedback

Regular use fleet When one is down I use another. 1993 loyale 4wd wagon Registered/running(sometimes) 1986 GL auto Wagon (Green Machine aka Frankenstien)Registered/running(sometimes) 1985 Brat Registed/Running 1977 DL 2Dr Sedan(the silver bullet) Registered/running(non salt months) 1987 Brat Yard Truck (wood getter) not registered. Project Cars 1979 4wd wagon(running) 1979 4wd wagon(may run but mainly for parts) 1978 GL Fast Back Coupe (running but needs extensive metal work) Parts Cars 1983 fwd wagon(could run w/ a lot of work) 1991 loyale(pretty much a shell at this point) 1985 Brat Non Subaru Cars 1973 VW Bug Registered/Running 1966 VW Westfalia Camper Registered Running 2001 Harley Davidson Nightrain Registered Running Non-subaru Projects 1956 VW Bug 1959 VW Bug 1959 VW Van 1967 VW Van 1973 VW Westfalia 1981 Harley Davidson Sporster Shovel Head. Needless to say I have an addictive personality. VW's are my Heroin, Subarus are my Crack, and Harley's are my Alcohol. Being a big fan of the flat 4 design Subaru beats VW in my opinion. More reliable and more power than the vw design.

1993 EA82 4WD Pushbutton tranny. So I have tried 2 brand new axle assemblies on the passenges side front wheel. I still get a rumbling/rattle noise comming from the CV joint. No wheel wobble or clicking, but a low pitch clunking. Noise doesnt matte if I'm turnng or going straight. Prior to my replacing the axle on that side I had a major rattling causing the stick shifter to rock back and forth. That issue is resolved with a new axle but I'm still geting this low pitch clunking. So either my wheel bearings are shot or my stub axle bearings are shot. I've torqued and checked all the suspension stuff X3 thinking that was te issue. Any ideas what to do next?

EA82 Auto tranny SPFI. So I'm driving along hit my turn signal and the entire electrical system cuts out. Only electrical things working are the emergency flashers and the interior light......everything else completly dead. All fuses are fine, even the ones in the engine bay. I assume some major ground wire for the entire harness has come loose. Any ideas where to look first?

looks like the original yellow was sprayed over by grey primer. You could try some graffiti remover or easy off oven cleaner to rub off that primer. Sweet coupe!