Rust

I have experimented with trying different tires, but I still get a mild rear end wobble when going over 55 mph. Any ideas how to cure this?

Thanxs to this web site I downloaded the wiring diagram. I have checked all wires fuses and connections.....but still haven't located the problem. Both rear lights(including brake lights) and licence plate lights are still not working. Can Anyone shed some light on this (Pun intended):-\

What purpose does the 4 square access pannels inside the bed walls serve, other than gaining access to the exterior trim clips? I'm in the process of cutting up a loyale to fix the cab floor rot, and was thinking of cutting out and putting the side plastic storage cubbies from the loyale rear area and putting them in where the brat access pannels are.

Nice to see it back on the road and in good hands. I'll have to drag race w/ you on the Berlin Turnpike some night in my 77 sedan. Looks great, but I would put the luggage rack back on.....accessories add that extra pop!

Will ea82(fwd) front wheel bearings fit into the knuckle of an ea81(4wd)rear or front? I know I should just buy new ones but I have a set that are ok, and want to save some cash.

I replaced my EA82 filter with a Mazda(FI) one. Fits ok and works fine. I relaced it simply because it was 20 yrs old. When subaru wrote the manual stating "never needs replacement" I don't think they were thinking of people using the cars for 25 yrs or more.

I blew out the speakers in my 86 GL doing the "turn up the radio repair" Time for sme new speakers:lol:

Thanxs for the tips. I'll give the proctucts suggested a try. I also have a decent set of chrome bumbers from an 83 wagon that I might try to modify to fit the brat.

Trying to spruce up my 86 Brat. Any ideas/tips to restore the non-metal parts of the bumpers. The faded grey of the rear bumper end caps, and the front bumper need help. Any ideas of paint or cleaning products that will restore them back to black? any ideas appreciated, thanxs.

Subaru wagon is a-foot at the circle-K.

Built a roof basket for my 86 gl wagon from an old bed frame found at the dump, and old swingset scraps. Works great, build cost=$0.

thanks, appreciate the effort to scan.

When you get the tubes cleared and dried and working properly, I would pour some motor oil down them to nutralize the rust inside the tubes. Not the best solution but eventually they will rust from the inside-out.

Been using Gummout tar/bug remover. It was on sale at Walmart for 2$ a can. Sprayed and soaked for a few days. Works pretty good, got about 75% of the undercoating off of the bug.

I need a wiring diagram for a 77 sedan. The rear lights went out and I'm stumped. If you can scan and post that diagram it would be appreciated.

If you decide to sell the rims off of either of those brats email me. I also have stock gen 1 "smoothie" rims w/ good tires, and 14" pugs w/ fair tires to barter with. Looks like the critters have a nice winter home in your field. Any aircooled VW junk rotting away out there?

Take some old rags/towells soak them w/ kerosene/gas/paint thinner/ or even water... and lay them on the metal pannels in the engine bay for a few days. Then go at it w/ a putty knife....be carful not to scratch the paint. You could also paint the engine bay w/ old motor oil, let it soak in for a few days, and then try scraping. The trick is getting it off w/o scratching/destroying the paint underneath. Now if I only had a trick to remove the asphalt undercoating from my 56 Bug.

you can unbolt the front cross member from the frame rails and drop the whole thing Engine/tranny and slide it out from under the car.

Yes it can. I posted a thread on how to do it in this section of the web sight.

That car is definitely fixable, get it fixed. Keep it as a winter beater and use the coupe in the non-salt driving season. I have 3 registered subie's one for daily beater, one for 4 wheelin, and one for classic cruzin. Variety is the spice of life.

In doing clutch replacement wether removing the engine, or tranny the y-pipe has to be removed. In most cases the bolts connecting the y-pipe to the engine break off, or the theads in the head get stripped. Getting the exaust back on is a headache of drilling, re-tapping, heli-coil, ect...its a hassle.....Until Now! You can do a clutch job w/o removing the exaust. This proceedure was done on a 1993 loyale pushbutton 4wd. Step 1 Disconnect battery. 2. Disconnect clutch cables, and speedo cable, trans grounding wire 3. Unbolt vacuum actuator for 4wd, and push back (you don't need to disconnect vacuum lines or cable) 4. Remove starter(push the actuator to the side and slip down through the bottom of car) 5. remove CV axles from tranny stubs. 6. remove front half of rear wheel drive shaft. 7. remove shifter linkages, and exaust hanger mount. 8. remove tranny mount bar, and rear crossmeber Now for the trick 9. remove the small skid plate under the engine. 10. Fab up an old steet sign, or any thin strong steel. Cut it to the width of the rear mouting holes of the skid plate. Cut it to 3/4 the length of the transmission. Use the skid plate as a template and drill out the 2 mounting holes on one end of your piece of steel. 11. grind off the small lip next to the tranny drain plug. 12. remove drain plug, drain the tranny, stuff a small rag in the hole. 13. Slide your piece of steel over the exaust pipe, under the tranny and bolt it into the rear mounting holes where the skid plate was. 14. A motorcycle jack works best, but a tranny jack could also work. Now you want to support the steel plate, jacking it up so the weight of the tranny is on your steel shelf you just installed. I used a piece of 6x6 landscaping wood and a motorcycle jack. The trick is to jack it up so the plate is resting on the jack, not the exaust pipe. the plate should be just slightly higher than the exaust pipe(a hair higher) You now have a sturdy shelf to slide your tranny onto. (Remember to only have it 3/4 the length of your tranny) 15. Unbolt your 4 tranny bolts from the engine. 16. Wiggle the tranny off the engine. This is why you only make your shelf 3/4 the lenght of the tranny, now you can get a floor jack in under the rear 1/4 of your tranny to help in the wiggle process. Remember not to move your shelf, it should remain stationary. 17. Once you pull it back off the engine, slide the bell housing towards the passenger side, and do your clutch job. 16. Slide the tranny back on the engine, bolt up the 4 bolts, and do steps 1-8 in reverse, Don't forget to top off the tranny w/ new fluid. This worked for me, and no y-pipe re-installation hassles.

I usually unbolt the front bar off the frame (4 bolts) and drop the whole thing (tranny and all) and slide it out from under the car.

I'll try monkeying around with it, my main point is the older the car the more simple it is. The newer the car the more over complicated they make them with more and cheaper parts to fail. I'll take a radio w/ 2 knobs anyday over a radio that you need a degree from MIT to get it to work.

:mad:Why did subaru switch to vacuum lines in 3rd gen subies??? This is my 3rd loyale to have the same problem, no heat to the windshield or the floor. So here comes another winter of cold feet, and wiping the windshield. They all seem to crap out at around 100,000 miles. Time to break out the wire and have to mannually pull the shutter flaps open and closed, yet again.

Can you use a loyale wagon rear wheel wells be used in a brat. The ones in the brat are toast and the shock towers are popped through. I'd like to cut the wheel wells out of a 91 loyal wagon and also use the loyale rear struts. Anyone done this before?