97subaruGT

$1000, didn't have the time to deal with this for weeks.

Well, by retiring I meant I sold it for chump change to another guy to deal with. Sorry man, no parts

Well, I finally retired my 97 Legacy after 120,000 faithful miles (total around 180,000). With lifter knock, oil leak, break job and body dents, I decided it's time to move on. I'm switching to a 2006 Accord V6, hope it works out for me as well the the Legacy.

Does anyone have a carfax account? Vin # 1N4BA41E16C833553 much appreciated

Yup, it's the factory door lock system Put the key in the ignition, turn to to the ON position and press the button under the dash. If you got an aftermarket security system, u can unplug the factory system. it's a 5x5 box in the foot well, near the foot rest.

Change the ignition coil. I had a similar issue with Cylinder 2 on humid days. Spend 80 bucks, it takes 10 mins to bolt on. After the fact, i noticed that cylinder 2 plug wire had a lead that retracted into the rubber housing. Maybe I pulled on the wire too hard and the tip backed in so there was not clean contact between the coil and the wire. Check for that too.

The fuse for the lighter is blown and the circuit is forwarded to the fan. Replace the fuse.

Umm.i think around 40 or so

I had a similar issue on my 97 Legacy. More than likely, your AC system is overcharged. Once I bled some pressure off, it went back to normal.

I'm running 3 different tire brands on my 97Legacy with no problems. I did have an issue when 3 tires were fairly new and the 4th was very old, i was getting a vibration. If tires are roughly the same size, i've had no issues.

Does your dash cigarette lighter work? When mine blew, the circuit was forwarded to the fans and that kept them on all the time...

Is it a factory alarm? On my 97, there's a black box about 10 inches above the left foot rest pad, under the dash. It's a black square box around 5 inches across mounted on the left side of the firewall, under the dash. THere should be 2 connectors going into the top of the unit, one with 1/2 dozen wires and one with about dozen or so. Disconnect the big jack and that should disable it. It's been a while since i disabled mine cuz it's was making the flashers blink after a dead battery.

Had a similar issue on my 97 Legacy. Turned out it needed new Ignition Coil / Wires. It would stumble only when cold for the first few mins when it was still partly humid in the engine bay. Once it warmed up, the water evaporated and everything was fine. The stumble also went away once the engine was revved. When I was replacing Ignition Coil ($100 at dealer), I noticed that Cylinder 2 wire had its lead retract into the the rubber sleeve. Looked like I pulled on it too hard and the lead retracted. Well, anyway, once that was replaced, back to normal. I would check those parts to make sure.

97 Legacy, 165,000 miles, original HG. Was running a bit hot last week but turned out to be an air bubble in the system. Burped it and back to normal.

I've got similar issues with my 97Legacy. When warm, the engine cranks and turns over but doesn't start. If I wait a few mins (3 to 15) it will start up normal but it did throw a "Crankshaft Position Sensor Fault" code. Any ideas where it's located and how much to replace it?

It's your factory remote door lock system. Under the dashboard, middle of the driver's side, there should a be a bunch of wires with one kinda separate with a small black button on it. Insert the key in to ignition, turn it to ON position and press the button. That will reset the factory system. If you can't find the button, on the left of the footwell, toward top left there is a small (5x5) black box should be mounted on the "wall". There are two thick wires with wide jacks running to it. If you don't use your factory door lock system, pull those two wires and the clicking will stop.

Had a similar condition on my 97 Legacy. Was a combination of wires/Ignition coil. Once replaced...all is back in order Total spent ~ $150.00

My DEH-7200 did the same thing. The installer at Circuit City said there is not way for the aftermarket unit to differentiate between radio and CD so it's alway's on if the head unit is on..

I had a similar thing happen to me. The plastic slider piece that goes along the bolt cracked. I got a new one from the dealer for a few bucks and a new nut for like 25 cents. It all comes separate so don't buy a whole new tensioner if they try to sell it to you. Good luck.

In general, is it a bad idea to go from synthetic oil to regular mineral oil on a 40K mile engine? This is regarding a 2000 Altima, btw. Thanks

Thanks for the help everyone. I'll try some cleaning, etc...and bring it in if the problems persists. Thanx again

Hey guys and gals. 97 Legacy, 160k miles. I'm getting a vibration in the steering column and pedals when I hit the brakes. I replaced my pads about 16K miles ago and at the time, got new front rotors. The shop said my rear rotors were still ok. Does this mean now I need rear rotors? Anyone have a part number so at least on ebay I can find something that fits? At the dealer, they're around $90 each..a bit pricey but not bad since the shop wanted to sell me the front rotors for $150 each...ouch!! I went to the dealer and got 2 for a total of $150. Any ideas on diagnosis would be appreciated. So far, I have no squeal and no other brake problems...braking power does not seem to be less than before. Front rotors are very smooth. Rear are not as smooth but no glaring defects either. Any way to tell if the rotor is warped? THanks.

Check the CV boots, especially on the passenger side. The grease splatters on the exhaust and stink whole lot.

Anyone know if I can use a '98 Forester ignition coil (part # 22433AA370) in a 97 Legacy 2.5 (part # 22433AA370)? 1stsubaruparts has AA370 as a coil for my car but the dealer said that it's a different part. Thanks

1. Engine shake - i get the same thing in my 97 Legacy. It's most noticeable between 60-75 mph. I think there is a TSB out from Subaru to fix this - install a dampener on a front transaxle. 2. Removing the headlamp unit - Unclip the front grill - the little clips on top and slide it out. There is a screw behind the grill you'll need to unscrew and 2 screws on top of the headlamp that mount to the frame. Unplug the headlight and corner/turning signals. You can slide the headlight unit out but watch out on the left side, there is a stud that is inserted into the fender/frame so you may need to wiggle the headlight out with a little force to get it to come out. Good luck.