Deener

Hey folks, Just wondering what my transmission compatibility range is for my model. From what I gather, I could fit any 3EAT transmission in my vehicle from 1983-1994. Is this correct? I had been hearing some 'whinning' from it when I got up to about 60kmph and then on the highway this morning, I heard a pop/thud and it got weird on me. Like it had a broken gear. When I came to a stop it wouldn't engage until I had the rpms up and even then I could hear scraping/grinding noises when it was engaged. Neutral won't roll properly either...so I am looking for another transmission and I need to know what I can put in, in case I can't find an exact match. Dean

I think that will be my next attempt, as General Disorder has explained. If I can get the diff side pin out with the punches I buy, then I can see the axle coming out. I won't be able to try until next weekend, again but I will keep you all posted. Once again, and I am sure you must hear it over and over...thank you all so much!!

Yes, GLoyale...I had the shock bolt off and the lower arm down...up and down, as low as it would go, in several different positions with the hub end pin out. I had a jack in between the arm and the body to move it as well. I think Bratman is right. It must be rusted on because no matter how much force I used (big pry bar, hammer, c-clamp) it didn't even budge in any position. I kept shinning the light through the pinhole to see if it moved and no luck whatsoever. At this point I am willing to try anything, including dropping the diff. Will I have to get an alignment if I don't get the bolts back on the diff in the same position? I think I saw a post about that. Thanks guys. Dean

Ok, I think I get it. So would it make sense to knock out a pin from the other side axle so I don't warp the other side?

I think that might be my only option at this point. I would have tried it but I have never taken it down. I was just kinda scared of breaking something...after all I am still learning. Cool news about the grass shield. Thanks Bratman.

Well, I spent 10 hours on Saturday trying to get my rear axle off of the spline. And its still there. I think that the two pieces have become one because I had the wrecking bar on it, smacking it with a hammer, lower shock bolt off, and a jack pressing down for clearance (I even tried different heights). I even put a C-clamp on and hit it around...it will not move and I destroyed the clamp. The torch idea is in the back of my mind but I will have to buy a fire extinguisher first. I could only get the tire side dritf pin out of the axle...could that be it? If so is a 3/16 punch the correct one? Also, I damaged the softer piece of metal on the wheel end of the axle...the part that is kind of a cup that snugs up and rotates over the inside of where the bearing is...does that mean I have to get a whole new axle too? The one positive note is that I successfully replaced my brake shoes during the process, which turned out to be really easy and self adjusting. Dean

I can't remember what plug types they were. I think Bosch actually if I remember the package correctly. NAPA up here has some brake shoes for 50 bucks for a full set. I am in the middle of attempting my first wheel bearing job and I am noticing too much wear on the shoes so they will get replaced first, conversions at a later date. BTW - with a disc conversion like that do you not have to balance the pressure distribution somehow or does it do it on its own?

Amazing. You people are great. I will update you all on my progress when I get back at it tomorrow. This is my daily driver, I live in Vancouver BC, so we don't get much salt, with the exception of this years snow accumulations and so far all of the nuts and bolts have been fairly easy to remove.

Ok, that sounds do-able, thanks a bunch!! I can't believe how fast you reply to these questions...it's outstanding.

Thats what I thought. Which pin? The one I couldn't get out?

Well...I did run into an issue. I got the hub off, then I got the drum off but I could not figure out what to next...? I tried punching out the axle pin that is closest to the wheel in hopes to take off the axle but it doesn't look like it comes off that way. Then I tried to punch out the other axle pin and no way...I need the right punch to get that one out. Am I going down the right road here..? It seems as though I do have to remove that axle to get at the beasring assembly. Dean

Thats what I needed to hear. Thanks a bunch!!

Hello everyone. I have seen dozens of posts about wheel bearings and I have most of my info, but I am wondering if I will need to get a hub tamer kit if I want to replace rear wheel bearings on my 88 GL 4x4 Wagon or if I can get away with out it (and not have to mess with brake lines or an alignment)? Side note - there is a great post here that is a photo essay on how to do the fronts: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76491&highlight=%27rear+wheel+bearing%27 Dean

Thanks a bunch!!

88 GL Wagon - 4x4 Ha ha...uh...I just broke off a lug nut. Yes, brilliant and a first. I am just wondering if anyone knows if I shoud go buy a new hub, or if the bolts can be changed easily? (I have yet to go get a 36 mm socket/breaker bar so I don't know whats in there yet.) Also, are there any compatibility rules when searching for a replacement-any particular years/models that will work? I was investigating a sound...loosey-goosey wheel bearing at the back so I will be replacing that as well and from what I've read here, the wheel bearing can be done without a hub tamer or a press. Hope you are all well. Dean

Yep, thats right on front of the inside of the engine. We have record snow right now and I am the only one getting around. Ha. When the shops open up, i'll get a new sending unit. Thanks a bunch Skip! yer awesome.

Awesome, thanks fellas. I will replace the sendning unit as well. I just went out and double checked and it must be the gauge. or the sending unit. SHe's purring nicely. Whew...thanks a bunch. I was thinking that I was about to do my first engine overhaul. Dean

FYI - I found that if you include single quotes, you can search the word oil. Which has promted me to say that I don't hear any ticking, and the gauge doesn't go up when I start the car.

Hi folks, I woke up up this morning and drove about 2 blocks and then my check engine light came on. The light went off after about 5 minutes but I noticed that my oil gauge is sitting at 0. Dipstick level is great. I tried searching this forum but the word 'oil' can't be searched as it is too common. Its a 88 GL wagon 4x4. I am going to start by putting on a new filter and if I can, take off the pan to search for debris, but can anyone suggest what else I should look for? Dean

Thanks Skip. Yes, It's an automatic, with the best red button on the stick that was ever invented. (on demand 4 wheel) I'll do a search on how to do the tranny fluid flush. I would assume there's a some kind of plug. I think it is an SPFI. I honestly don't know how to tell the difference between EA81 and EA82. Is there an easy way? I think mine is an EA82. Most of the same car years/models I see here list that as their engine type. As far as acquiring OEM parts goes...is there a Vancouver BC favorite shop or do I have to bow to the dealer?

That was a fast reply. Yes, I did the fuel filter...I just forgot to mention it. I have read a bit on this site about using OEM T-stats. I honestly don't know what type I bought, as I got it from a small local dealer here in Vancouver (Vancouver Auto Parts). I had him confirm the open/close values for me that I found in my Haynes manual. You are right, I should have got a rotor as well. I wasn't trying to save 5 bucks....I am just an aspiring backyard mechanic. I just took advice from someone that I shouldn't have about the rotor.

Hello All, I would firstly like to thank all of you for answering some of my issues in the past. You have helped me through some tough issues and your advice is invaluable to me. I have an 88 GL Wagon 4x4 and I want to keep it going as long as I can. This is my first Subaru and also my first 4 wheel drive. I am just wondering if there is anything outside of standard tune up/maintenance procedures that I should be aware of to keep my car sliding effortlessly through the snow, sideways, uphill, as I pass all the people with their jaws on their laps? I am not an idiot driver, I am just remarking on how much control is available in the slippy stuff. Heres what I have done so far: Plugs Dist Cap (rotor was good) Oil/Filter Air Filter Front Brakes (debating about swapping the back shoes for discs) Battery Alternator CV Axles (front) Thermostat/Flush Any suggestions are appreciated. Cheers, Dean

WOOOOO HOOOOOOOO! I was pulling out my hair looking for every electrical connection that I could get my hands on, looking for burnt stuff etc and I realized that the green wire from the stereo was touching metal. I taped it up, put in another fuse (didn't blow this time) and before I started it, I checked this thread. Ha...coincidence? I ran back ouside (I happen to have a few people over who heard me cheer) fired it up and drove the victory lap! That worked. Thank you all so much for helping out. You guys are amazing. Dean

Hi Bill, I tested the HT wire(I believe that's what it's called), the thick one on center/top of the coil that goes directly to the distributor. El-no-spark-o. I had an odd post here that told me to check fuse #5...well it's a horn/hazard fuse and it was blown. I put another one in it's place and it exploded as the points made conact. If it has something to do with my issue then I'll be shocked...well hopefully not shocked but amazed.

Just checked fuse # 5...it is labelled horn/emerg...it's blown. Put in another..it blew on contact...?I don't understand how the horn is supposed to be part of it all.