Deener

Yup. The parts stores don't carry them and the black link at the dealer here in Vancouver was 6.50 plus tax. Not to mention they don't stock them so if you need one it would have to be ordered.

Well for some reason, with the engine upside down on the stand (oil pan up) it was binding during install. The binding was fairly noticeable when tensioning and releasing the longest bolt, like I could feel the pump being crooked/not on correctly as I applied light tension to that particular bolt near the end of it's thread. I spun the engine around, right side up, and then the pump went on perfectly...twice. Hard to say why but it's on there now and spinning just fine. Thanks for the input everyone.

Cool, thanks for the input guys. I am 'pumped' to get this one going... Dean

I watched from the bottom (its on an engine stand) to make sure the mickey mouse gasket sealed properly when putting the bolts in. The O-ring stayed in it's place too. The shaft seal went on easily and without any trouble when I took it apart. It really didn't make sense to me why it would bind up after being tightened. The oil pumps are the same between 93 and 94, correct? I have an extra pump to try. Doubt its debris becuase I have cleaned the whole block and the pump profusely in and out with solvent and air. I even slipped an old timing belt around it and tried to turn it...its wedged in there pretty good. I'll just try again tonight and report back.

93 Loyale SPFI, NON TURBO As I was assembling the oil pump with a new gasket, shaft seal and a ring last night I found that the gear/spindle refused to turn as soon as I had tightened the bolts down. It would spin fine just before the last quarter turn but after that it wouldn't. The shaft has a little in and out play and thats normal, but shouldn't the gear/spindle still turn once the 5 bolts are tight? I am convinced that it should spin. The pump lines up nicely and the bolts go on smooth and it seems to mate to the block perfectly but after I tigthen the bolts down to snug, the spindle will NOT turn. What could I be doing wrong? I tried a few times over last night with no luck. Any thoughts?

Depends on how dirty it is. I use a heavy duty engine degreaser for the thick dirt (like what gathers on the cross member) and then usually some carb cleaner for the not-so-caked-on stuff. A flathead screwdriver as a scraper, lots of rags/towels, various wire brushes and a bunch of patience. When most of the dirt/carbon is gone I put a brass wire wheels in my drill chuck for the last little polish. A decent solvent will help too. Good luck, Dean

It has a 5 spd tranny. Unsure of the internal condition. The clutch, TOB, pilot bearing and FW were pretty done for though. Gimme a call for deets if you like. Dean

The only time I have seen the black one snap is when I put the battery cables on backwards. It snapped right away, without starting the car (weird old battery couldn't tell + from -). However, I obtained another proper black link from the dealer and stuffed it in there before going anywhere. Doubtful that helps you any.

One thing you can do on your own is clean it up and monitor it. Once you start identifying parts and the suspect 'leakers' you can target the points where it is likely to leak - oil pan, valve covers, oil pump o-ring, oil pump shaft seal, oil pump mickey mouse gasket, crank seal, cam seals, cam case to head mating surface...to name a few. Oh yeah...and the oil filter is one to watch for too - I had that once and the location of the leak blows the oil onto the exhaust when you are driving...free smoke show for the people you pass!!! If you can't pull the engine and fully service it, then just clean it up as best as you can then watch it to see where it leaks from over the next while. Maybe start it and have a friend push the throttle for you while you watch. Once the leak location is established, research the part and what it takes to service/replace any gaskets or rings/mating surfaces.

Funny, I just found an engine over the weekend so I drove out and pulled it. The local JY's have not been keeping anything older than Legacy's so finding an EA82 was pretty lucky. The cylinders look really good, no scuffs or dings or anything. I have both engines down to their blocks as I gather gaskets and rings and all for the swap. I am guessing that some debris must have ended up in that cylinder because the damage is right on the bottom, perhaps then it toasted the ring(s) on the piston creating the huge blowby. I don't believe that the ding in the wall is enough to be leaking that much compression on its own (40-50psi dry, then 150 wet) and perhaps it's just another symptom of the underlying issue. I plan on tearing the old one down to get a full post mortem and I will post some pics when it's apart. Dean

+1 to Miles Fox and timing belt check/replacement. My 88GL had slop in the belts and ran like cr@p untikl I changed them out. Obviously check all of the stuff you changed too. You mention that it runs for a 'little while' then dies - how long/short is that? Can you feather the throttle and keep it alive? How about with your foot to thtr floor? If its only a couple of seconds that it stays alive without touching the pedal - did you have your air box open for anything? Check to make sure all of the PCV hoses are together and the air box is tightened down with the clamps. The MAF could be dirty too, giver a shot with carb cleaner. I know firsthand that if they get soiled, they will allow the car to start but then it will die pretty much right away. Lastly blast a bunch of carb cleaner around your vaccum points. If you hear the RPM increase when you hit the right spot, you have found a vaccum leak.

Yeah sorry - SPFI, non-turbo, wagon, on demand 4wd, 5spd, and handsome. Cool, thanks a bunch for the info. Those part numbers are for the .25mm bore? Hold on...if I use bigger pistons, wouldn't I need to use different head gaskets then too? Like slightly bigger? I can see the head mating surface side being fine since it is flat around there but won't the gasket 'cylinder holes' need a larger circumference too...?

Hey, thanks WJM. Ok, lets say I get the block shredded/grated/bored out a little, I'd have to find a set of pistons and rings to match the new size, correct? Are such pistons easy to come by?

Well, I was just a little worried that I'd mess something up and shorten it's life in the process, but you are right - I might as well do a full rebuild. I pulled the engine last night and I noticed a scrape on the cylinder wall right near the top...does this mean I should get a new sleeve pounded in there? It's a little scuffed, and I can feel the bump with my finger but I can still see the cross hatching all the way down the cylinder, so the issue appears to only affect that 'ring-ish' part of the sleeve (not sure what that ring piece is called). I will attempt a ring job, but I doubt I'd be able to pull off and ram a a sleeve in by myself - machine shop once it's all apart I guess? You can see the torched bottom part of the piston where the junk was getting past. Here's the pics...

Basically find and identify those two sensors (FSM will help you locate them and it can be found on here somewhere too), and solder/tape in the resistors. The resistors that you put in are just going to take place of the sensors - so the ECU will think that the sensor is working because it is getting a proper ohm reading from the resistors and it will stop spitting codes. I just bend the male wires back enough to expose the contact point, then stuff the resistor wires in there - one in each side, then put a little drop of solder on them and wrap them up with electrical tape. Works every time. Search here for a FSM, it will help you identify the sensors, but they are right under the intake, passenger side and just to the right of the thermostat housing.

Thanks grossgary, I will rip it apart again and snap some pics of the cylinder when its on the stand.

93 Loyale Low compression on one cylinder + valve job = higher compression, but still not enough. I am kicking myself for not doing this earlier, ahem...before the valve job, but I ran a wet compresssion test and the wet results went WAY up: 50 - dry 150 - wet This is the one that has a serious blowby issue (chased it as a suspected blocked cat for a while). Since I am a little hard pressed to find another block around here to just dump into this machine I am wondering how difficult it would be to service the block/cylinder myself? It's just the number 3 cylinder that is wrecked, the rest are fine at 150 psi and the vehicle has really low KM. I don't mind buying tools to tackle this or even taking it to a machine shop (they are getting to know me now). I have heard that you don't have to crack the case to get the pistons out, and you need to make a tool for their removal but would I need any special tools aside from maybe a ring press and a honing tool? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Dean

Follow the big black can with the three hoses coming off of it that is at the front of the car, passenger side. That is the purge can and its hoses run right to its solenoid. The EGR sensor is right there as well (beside and kind of behind it it I think), one has a black connector and the other one has a white electrical connector (IIRC). Search around here some more for the codes you are getting, there are ways to 'trick' the sensors (egr and purge) using 5w 33ohm resistors in place of the sensors, I have done it and it works - thanks to GD. You may have to plug a couple of vac lines but thats about it. Not sure what your junkyard options are like where you are at, but the ones around here won't carry anything older than a Legacy, so the 25 cent resistors were exponentially cheaper than the dealership price for a replacement sensor. Alternately the CTS needs to be wired properly and the failures I have had were right under the rubber, right where that sensor meets the metal. So if the resistance across both sensor terminals is zero, check that the metal under the rubber is still intact.

Rob, I am so sorry to hear of your misfortune. It sounds like this happened right near Loon Lake. Glad to hear your cat made it though. It sounds like a hollywood movie...you know...the pet always manages to survive despite incredible cirumstances (Old Yeller is the exception). Stop by on your way through next time and show me the battle wounds. Dean

Speaking of lawnmowers, how handy would it be to have a 'pull start' option? Lawnmower sound...check your exhaust gaskets/studs (right where they meet at the heads). If the gaskets are toast or you have a loose or missing bolt, the sound will be similar to a lawnmower. The nuts should be a 14mm deep socket if they are the originals. Holes...yes they will do that too but you might be able to quieten it down a bit by securing the studs/nuts to the heads. Proceed with caution though...you don't want to strip the studs or the nuts.

I had the tapping sound appear when I did the HGs on one and had accidentally mixed the lifters up during reassembly. The tapping went away after I had ran a flush through the crankcase though. I have read somewhere here that lifter tapping noises can come from air getting in there somehow. You don't have any leaks though, do you ? Maybe a cam carrier o-ring is squarshed?

Sorry, not sure how I missed that. Keep us posted on your findings.

Fair enough, it would take a decent distance for it to snap from being weakened merely by fluids. In my experience (albeit limited) the drivers side tends to snap easier than the passenger...but...Qman...how did you know it was his drivers side that keeps going? I don't see that specific info in this post.

+1 for fluids shortening belt life. Another thing to check would be the power steering pump for leaks - its right above the belts and when it leaks it will drip straight onto the passenger side belt if you don't have the timing belt covers on. I have seen two belts go out like that when the PS fitting (17mm into 19mm piece right up front) was cross threaded and leaking.

I know from experience that if your fluid is black instead of gold, then you can expect some trouble. My front diff started a high pitch whining when it was on it's way out. It was a very distinct sound - like that of a remote control car...not sure if that helps you much though.