SoobieDoo

I just ran into this situation : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68357&highlight=obd* My harness and ECU were taken from a different car than the engine, so the harness has three plugs at the battery, and the engine harness has two. It's extra work that I wasn't prepared for, but I can put a 3-plug harness on the engine, just so long as it really is a '94 and OBDI. How many plugs are there for the OBDII's, and is there another way to identify the engine? Thanks, ~E

Not a runner yet, but much closer. Aftermarket fuel pump added, cooling system, intake, power steering lines bent and connected, throttle cable, etc. Now I just need to bolt up the exhaust, wire the alternator, and connect the harness.

Made some progress today I actually started the EJ swap two days ago, but only had a couple of hours after work to help Scott prepare the shop and start disconnecting stuff. Today was the first of three days off to get 'er done. The EJ is now bolted in and radiator all hooked up! Many thanks to Scott!!! The shop and tools, knowledge, and he helped out a lot, installing the clutch and milling the flywheel on the spot. Tomorrow will get a new fuel pump, plug in the ECU and harness, hook up everything else, and hopefully test fire.

Nice finds!!! I'm glad to see you're putting a DR in...it always strikes me funny when those 20+ yr old parts are put in a newer car. Get a clue Subaru!

Love those white gauges...I've not seen them before, having never been in a OB.

This thing is so heavily modified that you can only call it a wheeler. Subaru body, engine, and tranny+ Nissan suspension, t-case, and frame= Fuji H.I. crawler.

It didn't make any sense to me why subaru would label each plug but not identify them, until I downloaded the full FSM and saw the missing pages. I was starting to wonder if I'd get any important questions answered, since the ammo box fiasco, so thanks for clearing that up man!

Lookin good John! That PS will be a nice upgrade too.

bump... Guess I'll just have a fat harness, as the FSM doesn't really identify any of the plugs. I'm now onto stripping the fuse box out, is it fine to eliminate all of that wiring?

I likes the turn signals....jk, sweet ride man!!!

Nevermind...figured it out meself. I could use some input on what can be eliminated from the center firewall harness. I'll only be using the ac pump for onboard air , so that wiring can go...anything else?

Thanks Gloyale, I think that's what I'll do. Made some progress on the harness today. It's slow work, especially since nothing was marked, but it's a start. I started on the dash side wiring, and got all the plugs marked except for those that pass through the center firewall and instrument cluster. Those sections are still intact, but I have been cutting some cruise wires going into the firewall. I'm assuming at this point that everything there will be plugged into the engine, so is it a safe bet that I can just use process of elimination there to thin it out? I also have no clue how to identify the needed wires for the cluster. Any thoughts? ~Eric

...OK, I could probably paint that for you on your rig

Cool, so if the gauge wires are independent of the ECU anyway, then location of the comp. should be the only difference. I'm using your write-up, Chux, so I'm hoping for that zero failure rate as well.

It may not be the easiest, or best idea...but I like it. Considering that Rob's old sedan has never even had the ECU enclosed in the spare tire area, I think mine will be fine in the can. No snorkel, though. I'll just leave the lid cracked for ventilation and shut it up watertight for serious swimmin'. The biggest benefit may be no wiring through the firewall and no pulling the instrument cluster!?! Correct me if I'm wrong, but all the instrument wiring is already in the engine comp.

I picked up the bulk of what I need for the EJ swap today. '94 EJ22, complete harness with relays, ECU, header, & air box: Legacy seats need some cleaning and one tear to patch. Will be far better than my broken-down ones that are puking foam on the carpet: computer case, fan not included: Now the real fun begins!!!

33's.......more

How involved would it be to take out the original ECU? I know the fuel pump will no longer be used, but will I be into a lot more splicing and wiring for the original harness? I could use that space in the engine comp. anyway...for a air tank!

Yeah, even properly designed the snorkel will at least pull in dust. Maybe if the vent tube was filtered like the intake, but then it may trap too much heat? I saw that, very nice work scoobyclimbs! A vent into the cabin would be the cleanest, as long as its large enough. :-\

I don't intend to cross rivers, but $__t happens off road. I think my idea would hold water...or not!!!

My only complaint is that you weren't fast enough...I printed it yesterday. :-\

That sounds like a major PITA! You would have to completely submerge the car to have water go in the snorkel. Some moisture will get in from rain, but should blow right by the bypass for the ammo box.

Don't sweat the paint, man. That stuff is water-based marking paint. Probably wouldn't hold up to 2 weeks of rain in your yard, let alone on a car. My bad if that's traffic paint, but the nozzle looks wrong. I'd scrub it all off with some scotchbrite and head back to walmart for the good stuff.

I have and will search for most questions on the swap, but figured that I'd start this thread for the oddballs. Full build here:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95517&highlight=trail+wagon I don't even have the parts, yet, but will very soon and I already have questions. First off, I'd like to stick the ECU in an ammo box in the spare tire area. I've already got the stock ecu in the way, so the engine comp. is fine, but I want it waterproofed. The swap alone is a big step, having no disty, so I may as well go full bore. The last thing I want to do is take a fully waterproof ammo box, then ventilate it. Heat is a problemo, you say...why not vent the box into a snorkel? The question I have now, is how to combat the vacuum? I figured that a larger pipe or hose should work fine...say 1-1/2 to 2" would be smaller diameter than the snorkel and easy to tie in. BUT, would the heat draw out from the "ram flow effect" of the snorkel, or would vacuum just keep it in? I'd like to try this out, but with the EJ swap coming fast, will prob just install a bulkhead fitting in the can that I can tie into later. Thanks, and wish me luck! ~Eric