SoobieDoo

Sounds great, Scott! I've been meaning to come up and help you out with that fiberglassing or other things too. When's a good time for you? No offense, Jeff, but Scott's closer and we've got other agendas.

Yeah, I figured 18" would be more than enough, even with a screw-up or two, so I've got enough for two cars. I was going to do this myself, tomorrow, but there's no hurry. I still have 13" steelies after all!

I just picked up some perfect stuff for this lift yesterday, but had to buy a 32" piece, so I'll have excess. It's galvanized 2x2, 1/4 wall with rounded corners! It'd be heavy to ship, so I'd chop it up to ship priority flat rate. 'Bout 18" for $15 Mods, you can put this in "for sale" area, if you like, but Jeff has first dibs for posting this awesome thread.

l o l!

Awww, but Jeff, I was hoping we'd wear matching pink "find a cure" shirts, too!!! :lol:

You must be referring to the rear only, right? It would thread in with no nut to back it up. I'll just borrow a P/S bolt to match up the thread size at my hardware store. Could prob use any size for the fronts, eh?

Nice pics, Jeff! What size bolts did'ya use? I'm stoked about doing this lift on my soob.

Very nice! I think this is exactly the route I'm going with mine. Looks like you didn't have to do any trimming/bashing with those 185 14's on the front: how 'bout the rear? Those rear pics of the lift will be great. Do you guys usually have the struts cranked up or down with that lift? :-\

Thank you!!! Know how much time I wasted searching for the wheels page!?!

Yeah, that looks cool. I'd go, if it was in my neck of the woods.

Black, with whitewalls

It was 10F here last night and daytime temps have not been above freezing for days. I have a newly installed and tuned weber with manual choke, 10w-30 in the box. I close the choke 90%, pump it twice, and hold at 1500 rpm for about a minute. Then it would idle all day at 800 rpm! Once I'm driving and see the temp gauge rising, then I fully open the choke. There had been a couple of times, getting used to the manual choke, when I'd left it partially closed too long and the temp would go up to H. I didn't know that a choke could cause overheating, but pretty sure now.

Looks good, man! I didn't notice any trimming...gettin any rubbage?

How many chickens can you fit in a brat, Jeff!?!

I can go Sunday

If you're getting a "newer" one, with the EA82 engine, the electronic choke for a weber won't fit. The power steering pump is too close, so the choke has to be removed. You can rig up a manual choke, though. Works just fine on my car, but it hasn't seen freezing temps yet. I've also heard that those carbs can ice up easily, so SPFI with added elevation thingy may be the way to go. Search for carbs or SPFI under username General Disorder for best info.

The 3m undercoat would not be good for any exterior areas of the car. It is asphalt-based, so it will get sticky in direct sun. If you don't want to use the rubber bumper coat previously mentioned, I'd p/u a can of Rustoleum plastic primer, then topcoat with whatever tough paint that you choose. Don't know about the wheel balance. If you just mean painting them, then no.

That waxoyl sounds like good stuff. I may try that, as Kroil isn't meant for the purpose of undercoating. It's more of a penetrating lube, like pb blaster. Makes sense, with the added paraffin too.

Yeah, I'd say our rust probs here are only better due to the de-icer...but still not good. Maybe you can find a soob from oklahoma or someplace! Ospho wouldn't work at all on a car previously oiled too. Think that i'll scrape off all loose undercoat, double coat of ospho, then oil. I might try some stuff called Kroil. It's supposed to be very good and is advertised as "the oil that creeps!"

They use salt there in maine? I believe WA uses de-icer, but I'm right on a bay also. Still, the rust isn't too bad...yet. Ever used Ospho, or some other phosphoric acid? It's supposed to be painted over, but I've used it on a regular basis to stop rust. Maybe a good app. of that before oiling!?!

Just saying fast compared to a good app. of undercoating. Some people are not very good at regular maintenance, and twice a year may never get done. It does now need to be redone, but the factory undercoating on my car is over 20 years old. I'll be oiling my car!

Oil will be easy and cheap, but needs to be applied regularly, as it will wear off. If you committed to doing that, say with every oil change, that's fine. But...if you know that you won't do that, spend the time and money to undercoat it. That means stripping off all of the factory junk and coating everything really well. I'd still call the rubberized stuff regular maintenance, but you won't have to deal with it once a year. I've heard POR15 is good stuff, but $$$.

Door panels: Unscrew armrest, carefully pry out the plastic pins around the door, pop out the door latch trim, and pull up to remove the whole panel. I just did this on my own '86 GL...should be the same panels. I'd use rubberized undercoating in the wells. It is softer, more flexible than paint. Even epoxy paint can chip when it's hit by a rock at 100+ mph. Stay away from high-heat paint for the wheels. They are a flatter, less durable finish and you won't need 1200 degree resistance. If you are concerned about heat, go with an engine enamel. Aervoe makes them in a durable, gloss finish, good to 350 deg. Personally, I'd use Hammerite for the wheels/bumpers. It's avail in smooth, as well as that funky hammered look, and actually has powdered glass in it. Stuff is slow to cure, but nearly as tough as a powdercoat. Don't forget surface prep! It is key to a good paint job. Clean, dry, de-glossed, and sound (nothing loose). Good luck, and don't forget before/after pics!

Weld...but for future patches, only use Jb where you need some heat resistance. It's good up to 600 degress, but there is much stronger epoxies available now. Superweld has a tensile strength of 7,450 psi, Jb is about 3,950.

You can't lose for 40-80 bucks. If nothing else, the parts are worth more than that. Good find!