pixO

Congrats! I hate tracking down electrical issues because I forget they are easier than they seem. There is always a general process to narrow it down to a single system and then it's just detective work tracing down wires & grounds

Voluntary manslaughter comes to mind though

We have emission testing here? Haha. I'd track down that idle problem...If you google something like "high hc idle emissions" you'll find some sites that list out some things to check/usual suspects: IDLE EMISSIONS A vehicle that has sharply elevated HC or CO emissions at idle will usually have a noticeable misfire and/or rough idle. The most likely causes here would be: Fouled spark plug(s); Shorted spark plug wire(s) or defective plug boot(s); Vacuum leak; EGR valve stuck open; (acting like a huge vacuum leak) Burned exhaust valve; Misadjusted throttle body air/fuel mixture; or Misadjusted carburetor idle mixture. An extremely rich fuel condition can also cause elevated HC and CO at idle, while an extremely lean condition will only cause HC to rise abnormally. A leaky EGR valve can act like a vacuum leak and cause a lean misfire at idle.

Hey.. another Kennewickian! I hope you aren't working outside Try these PDFs: http://www.pixogen.net/usmb/87 GL Axle Shaft Assembly - Service and Repair - Removal and Installation.pdf http://www.pixogen.net/usmb/87 GL Axle Shaft Assembly - Service and Repair - Disassembly and Assembly.pdf edit: I should refresh before posting.. haha.

I've only purchased GM parts and they've been great :]

+1 for 1.6L/EA-71 I checked out some parts sites and they all point to a 1.6L & an EA-71 fits the bill. Which brings up the obvious - just ask for parts that fit a Subaru Standard. Each parts store have automatic interchange part info as aftermarket parts seem to be oh-so generic these days.

Edit.. I knew I posted this before. Just read my post here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=770397&postcount=20

Hey crockettbrat, that's basically what I suggested. If he doesn't have an ammeter, he can test with a multimeter. I decide to skip the "remove a battery cable and check for a draw" part because there's an obvious draw (it drains overnight, just sitting there). We've pretty much covered it, but here's a link to a generic parasitic battery test procedure: wikihow.com

Correct. You want to see what's drawing power from the battery and if the car is running, all kinds of circuits are awake. If your car is running and your alternator is working, it'll be charging the battery and working against your testing

I didn't get it because I've never noticed that switch before haha. I leave my headlights "on" and I never park anywhere with a need for it. Ohhhh well. Thanks for the help. The dash is back together and I plan to install the front door speakers tomorrow.

Get the battery completely charged up and then run through your tests. If you don't have a multimeter, you can get away with a test light to check voltage (though a lot of people hate them with a passion). Another option is to go down to a parts store and see if they can test the alternator on the car. Most can bench test them. I'll warn you though, I bought an alternator from schucks and I diagnosed a problem back to bad diodes and it continually tested fine on the bench. I made them exchange it and I was back in business.

I don't have anything engine-pull specific, but you could try the pull a fuse and check each connection with a multimeter method. Whichever socket has voltage, look at the schematic for that circuit (pull the dome light bulb out). When I first got my '93 Loyale, I had the same problem with a battery drain. After checking the alternator circuit, I moved on the pull-a-fuse method and eventually traced it to the trunk. The drain was a broken ground strap for the module that sits under the third brake light. If you need schematics, I can post them

I hooked everything backup to the dash panel to make sure the HVAC controls were working and I can now adjust where my air comes from The only problem now is that my running lights won't turn off unless I pull fuse 19 for Power Door Locks. I hit the switch on top of the steering column when I took the dash panel out. Hahahaha. Man.. that's a relief.

Here's a Blower Motor Wire Diagram: http://www.pixogen.net/usmb/1993%20Loyale%204WD%20Blower%20Motor%20Wire%20Diagram.pdf I'm not sure what all depends on the black fusible link (other systems would be dead if it were burned out/intermittent), but I'd check that wire for continuity off the car or voltage while on the car & running. Check fuse 1, 2 and 12 for continuity (or a visible inspection at the very least). It looks like there is a relay. It's located under the left side of the dash, behind the instrument cluster:

Thanks Skip. I'm still at work, but I'll look into it when I get home. Being that my setup matches yours at this point, I think I just need to hook a couple things up to confirm there aren't any hose leaks (which could have been why it was messed with to begin with) and then reassemble the dash. <3 USMB