pixO

Congrats! I hate tracking down electrical issues because I forget they are easier than they seem. There is always a general process to narrow it down to a single system and then it's just detective work tracing down wires & grounds

Voluntary manslaughter comes to mind though

We have emission testing here? Haha. I'd track down that idle problem...If you google something like "high hc idle emissions" you'll find some sites that list out some things to check/usual suspects: IDLE EMISSIONS A vehicle that has sharply elevated HC or CO emissions at idle will usually have a noticeable misfire and/or rough idle. The most likely causes here would be: Fouled spark plug(s); Shorted spark plug wire(s) or defective plug boot(s); Vacuum leak; EGR valve stuck open; (acting like a huge vacuum leak) Burned exhaust valve; Misadjusted throttle body air/fuel mixture; or Misadjusted carburetor idle mixture. An extremely rich fuel condition can also cause elevated HC and CO at idle, while an extremely lean condition will only cause HC to rise abnormally. A leaky EGR valve can act like a vacuum leak and cause a lean misfire at idle.

Hey.. another Kennewickian! I hope you aren't working outside Try these PDFs: http://www.pixogen.net/usmb/87 GL Axle Shaft Assembly - Service and Repair - Removal and Installation.pdf http://www.pixogen.net/usmb/87 GL Axle Shaft Assembly - Service and Repair - Disassembly and Assembly.pdf edit: I should refresh before posting.. haha.

I've only purchased GM parts and they've been great :]

+1 for 1.6L/EA-71 I checked out some parts sites and they all point to a 1.6L & an EA-71 fits the bill. Which brings up the obvious - just ask for parts that fit a Subaru Standard. Each parts store have automatic interchange part info as aftermarket parts seem to be oh-so generic these days.

Edit.. I knew I posted this before. Just read my post here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=770397&postcount=20

Hey crockettbrat, that's basically what I suggested. If he doesn't have an ammeter, he can test with a multimeter. I decide to skip the "remove a battery cable and check for a draw" part because there's an obvious draw (it drains overnight, just sitting there). We've pretty much covered it, but here's a link to a generic parasitic battery test procedure: wikihow.com

Correct. You want to see what's drawing power from the battery and if the car is running, all kinds of circuits are awake. If your car is running and your alternator is working, it'll be charging the battery and working against your testing

I didn't get it because I've never noticed that switch before haha. I leave my headlights "on" and I never park anywhere with a need for it. Ohhhh well. Thanks for the help. The dash is back together and I plan to install the front door speakers tomorrow.

Get the battery completely charged up and then run through your tests. If you don't have a multimeter, you can get away with a test light to check voltage (though a lot of people hate them with a passion). Another option is to go down to a parts store and see if they can test the alternator on the car. Most can bench test them. I'll warn you though, I bought an alternator from schucks and I diagnosed a problem back to bad diodes and it continually tested fine on the bench. I made them exchange it and I was back in business.

I don't have anything engine-pull specific, but you could try the pull a fuse and check each connection with a multimeter method. Whichever socket has voltage, look at the schematic for that circuit (pull the dome light bulb out). When I first got my '93 Loyale, I had the same problem with a battery drain. After checking the alternator circuit, I moved on the pull-a-fuse method and eventually traced it to the trunk. The drain was a broken ground strap for the module that sits under the third brake light. If you need schematics, I can post them

I hooked everything backup to the dash panel to make sure the HVAC controls were working and I can now adjust where my air comes from The only problem now is that my running lights won't turn off unless I pull fuse 19 for Power Door Locks. I hit the switch on top of the steering column when I took the dash panel out. Hahahaha. Man.. that's a relief.

Here's a Blower Motor Wire Diagram: http://www.pixogen.net/usmb/1993%20Loyale%204WD%20Blower%20Motor%20Wire%20Diagram.pdf I'm not sure what all depends on the black fusible link (other systems would be dead if it were burned out/intermittent), but I'd check that wire for continuity off the car or voltage while on the car & running. Check fuse 1, 2 and 12 for continuity (or a visible inspection at the very least). It looks like there is a relay. It's located under the left side of the dash, behind the instrument cluster:

Thanks Skip. I'm still at work, but I'll look into it when I get home. Being that my setup matches yours at this point, I think I just need to hook a couple things up to confirm there aren't any hose leaks (which could have been why it was messed with to begin with) and then reassemble the dash. <3 USMB

Before I looked into all of this, I had heat & A/C through the main vents only. Adjusting the temperature slider adjusted the temperature without issue and hitting the MAX A/C button appeared to work, though I just roll the windows down. I didn't have any control over where the air was coming from, which wasn't an issue until now because of the inside glass fogging up. I'll do a test before I get the dash back together to see if my car is special or just ghetto-rigged to work partially. Again, thanks for all the helpful advice subiemech85.

Hrm.. I have a mini mag light with an LED upgrade.. haha. Anyway, to make my previous post clearer: FACTORY SETUP: (per this post) Vacuum Hose 1 goes to the servo that controls the Windshield/Defrost servo. Vacuum Hose 2 goes to the servo that controls the Dash/Floor Vents servo. Vacuum Hose 3 goes to the servo that controls the Fresh Air/Recirc servo. MY SETUP Vacuum Hose 1 goes to the servo that controls the Fresh Air/Recirc servo. Vacuum Hose 2 goes to the servo that controls the Windshield/Defrost servo. Vacuum Hose 3 goes to the servo that controls the Dash/Floor Vents servo. One more edit.. haha. I looked at that white writing and it's definitely english. It's marked "352" in an ink pen. :shrug: Either way, it'll all get fixed correctly. This is really a lot of work for a "cheap" commuter car.

I moved it all kinds of directions The panel has white junk yard writing on it on the bottom side & it's been messed with before, so it wasn't very easy. One screw on the bottom left side was almost stripped + the u-nut was toast. (it's been in an accident or two and someone must have hit the dash hard enough to break it, at least that's my thought.) There were 9 screws, sans the two behind the radial switch (it's dark + freezing out... I missed the connector to it), so that wasn't the issue. Either way, I figured out the mystery - some people need to make sure everything works when you put stuff back together Thanks for all the help. I'll be sure to post once I get it all back together tomorrow/this weekend. edit: There are four hoses on the HVAC controller. From top to bottom, it goes 1, 2, 4, 3. There is one last nipple near the bottom of the controller that doesn't have a vacuum hose attached. I noticed that I only have two hoses that run down to this part of the vacuum setup - hoses 2 and 3: The third one, labeled number 1, runs off towards another vacuum servo on the right-side of the dash, behind the glove box. I'm not sure where number 4 goes. Errrrr. That's gotta be the inlet hose, right?

I pulled and pulled and that stupid dash piece would not release from the right-side vent (center vents if you are looking at the entire dash). I could see the tab it was stuck on, it just wouldn't let go. I pulled a bit harder and it finally let go. I removed the two screws to the blower adjuster (radial dial, numbered 1-4) and unplugged all the connectors holding the dash trim in and removed it. My parking/running lights turned on, so I pulled every fuse until they turned off since I didn't plan on finishing up tonight because it's 23 degrees out. I pulled the HVAC controller out and saw three vacuum hoses, labeled 1-3 and some hard plastic/resin lines that pointed downward, so I followed them down to the bottom trim piece that's below the radio. The black vacuum connector that mates to the white one I took a picture of earlier was below the ghetto rigged trim piece and the metal tab holding it in was OUTSIDE the plastic. Obviously, a previous owner had no idea what they were doing when they removed that piece below the radio. I'll update later with a picture or two, but needless to say, I didn't need to tear into my dash :-\ You live and learn I guess. I am becoming more and more familiar with my Loyale.

Thanks, I have access to ALLDATA & Mitchell OnDemand, but some things aren't clearly described & they assume (rightly so) that I have everything hooked up correctly and all parts are accounted for Just to confirm, I'm removing "Visor A" (Listed as #4 - see drawing below): Loyale Exploded Dash: edit: I decided to go out there and try to remove the trim piece that's between the steering wheel and the instrument cluster: I can't seem to get it off after removing all the screws (All 9 of them). It's stuck near the main-level vents on the left and right side. Do I just need to be a little more forceful? I don't want to break it!

I haven't removed anything yet as I just finished up installing rear speakers and the back seat (priorities right.. sound or heat.. haha). It'll get dark before I get off work the next couple of days, so I'll probably end up waiting until the weekend to tear into the dash.

Thanks for the information. I'm sure there are several names for these parts & it probably depends on your background/where you are located in the world Does anyone know if the A/C clutch is supposed to run randomly even when I have the car set to "Heat" or is that a byproduct of missing vacuum lines that runs from the cluster to the two vacuum servos? Also, why would I be missing a vacuum line with "1" on it & what is it meant for since my setup doesn't match the previously quoted post.

Based on your tear down instructions, I'm assuming that the junction block is located on the cluster? Why don't I have a hose with "1" on it? I can't assume it's a feature my car didn't have because a previous owner has already messed with the vacuum lines and graciously removed some parts that I need.

I have a '93 Subaru Loyale. 1.8L SPFI, 5spd manual, 2WD, factory A/C, with some HVAC controller vacuum issues. I only get heat / A/C out of the main dash vents, not the lower or upper/defrost vents. I checked the vacuum canister in the engine compartment, on the passenger-side and there's plenty of vacuum. The hose looks good as well. I traced it back through the body plug and into the cabin. While I was contorted to a very odd shape, I noticed two vacuum servos. For kicks, I manually operated them. Success! The bottom one changed the air to the lower vents and the top one changed the air to the defrost vents. They don't operate when you push different settings on the dash. Vacuum Servos: While I was down there, I noticed a connector with two hoses coming out of it. One was marked 2 and the other was marked 3. I'm pretty sure they route to the dashpots, but it was dark and I couldn't feel my knees anymore I was wondering if mine looks normal, or am I missing some hoses/the mating connector & what is it's purpose? Vacuum Connector: What am I missing/what is the culprit for non-functioning push-button controls. Also, I noticed that the clutch on my A/C turns on randomly even with my heater on (I get plenty of heat, it's just odd that it turns on).. is that a normal subaru/loyale feature?

Hillholders.. love them or hate them. haha.