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Just to clarify: LCD = Liquid Crystal Display, LED = Light Emitting Diode. I just read the codes out on my '93 SPFI Loyale, so I hope this helps. Connect the read (White) connectors under your hood and return to the passenger compartment. You are looking for a hole with an LED in it, not an LCD. When you are looking at the mounted ECU (under the dash) it's going to be on the the side that points towards the driver (my LED is red, I'm not sure if all of them are this color). You will have to remove a few screws & plastic clips to get the panel that's directly under the steering wheel off. There will probably be a black plastic hose/duct that is attached to it, that's for your A/C / heater - leave it attached and let the whole panel dangle. To actually count the flashing on the LED, I had to get on my knees, outside of the car and lean under the steering wheel, while turning the ignition to the "on" position (do not start). Count the number of long and short flashes from the LED from the ECU under the dash and check it against this list: http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ I have a bad EGR valve/solenoid, so the code, looked something like this: "_ _ _ ...." which translates to "34"

Even with sources like AllData and such, they still say the connectors are under the dash. They even have a pretty diagram telling you where the connectors AREN'T in our Loyales.

Try inside the distributor How do you know it's bad?

I had a silver 83 GL turbo wagon that had a three speed automatic/push button 4wd that came from Montana It leaked an obscene amount of oil, rust galore and the transmission quit working in the higher gears and reverse. Just email the sell and ask what transmission it has/condition of the body/etc

If you are trying to remove just the lock cylinder, usually you need the key in it (this was the case on my '86 Aries). Turn the key until it comes out. Also, make sure you unhook the battery so it doesn't try to start edit: I tried searching my mitchell dvd and I came up empty, so I tried autozone's repair section:

Here's the starting circuit for your brat: I have others if you need them :] Edit: As you can see, there should be an accessories and run position on the ignition switch. Have you thought about just replacing the ignition switch and/or cylinder? They don't look to be too much at parts stores.

Nice! I paid $300 for my '93 Loyale (plus an additional $300 for alt/battery/general stuff to get it road ready) and my paint and body isn't nearly as nice.

Tried rockauto.com? I've found some parts for my '93 Loyale on craigslist and eBay.

I owned an 83 GL turbo wagon and it was pretty fun until it started leaking oil from every possible crevice. I had to chase breaking/blown hoses and rubber all over that engine for about a year (curse that right angle bypass hose). It was a three speed and eventually reverse stopped working and I had to manually shift the car between the gears most of the time. I finally gave up and donated it to a local junk yard :/ It was super rusty and didn't have a working heater, so I wasn't too sad to see it go. Now, I own a 93 Loyale with a five speed manual. After much reading and seeing tons of old subaru's on Craigslist with bad automatic transmissions - I'll never own an older sub with a three speed again Manuals seem to last as long as the engines. I think you'll be able to track down the fuel issue easier than fixing the turbo'd car and like it a lot more. Will the turbo really help that much in the mountains? I mean - how fast do you plan to drive around up there? Hah.

I'm still new here, but I thought I'd help out a fellow USMB'r. I have a Chilton's for my 93 Loyale but I bought a "repair cd" off ebay that has all kinds of excellent info. Here's another wire diagram for your stereo: http://www.pixogen.net/usmb/images/Subaru-Loyale-Radio-Wiring.gif (I wasn't going to resize it, so just click the link)