kirbykirb

Well, woot. I was bored so I did the tranny show your code trick and found out you don't have to do the 12mph requirement on it. It responded with 23/24/25 error codes inclding Soelnoid C. I have a transmission waititng to be picked up locally in tampa from Ace Auto's. thanks john! And I found a nice shop to do the swap cheaply I should have my subie back on the road sat, yay! :banana: Thanks guys..even though some of you ran away

Hmm...well my car is down and school starts in a week. yay dealer wants 540$ if they were to do a tranny swap.. should I just bite the bullet and have my car towed to the dealer so they can "properly" inspect everything/diagnostic? I'd assume they know best because it's the dealer.. this way I shall know what the exact problem is with the car too..and get a nice quote. Hmm... not sure what to do either..the transmissions near me that I can pick up won't fit my car, and the ones online that will are easily over 800$. What do you guys think I should do now? I really do suspect the transmission, and I'm pretty positive it's not a broken flex plate (Car has no trouble starting at all.) The axle is fine imo because when the tranny wants to work, it'd move both axles. I really want this fixed in less then 8 days.

Alright, will do! I'm asking because theres a company selling replacement transmissions which they say are imported from japan. Not that I care where they came from-- Just, thought I'd ask to make sure!

Hmmm, I've been talking to some sellers and some have TZ102Z1, I know you said earlier that 2 must be for me otherwise it won't work. Does that apply for these ones too? thanks! And, yes I have.

I love you <3 Thanks thanks for the help!

So, On the transmission TZ102Z2 has to much to fit in my car, correct? The one in my car this second is a Tz102z2ABA-CH. It seems like 2.2 will fit my 2.5 So far I got TZ102Z2ABA = 96 outback (2.2L) TZ102Z2ABA = 96 outback (2.5L)..... same trans. TZ102Z2CBA = 97 outback TZ102Z2CAA = 97 legacy LSi TZ102Z2CCA = 97 legacy GT TZ102Z2DBA = 98 outback (early 99) TZ102Z2DCA = 98 legacy GT TZ102ZABAA + 96 legacy (all 2.2L cars except outback TZ102ZACAA + 97 legacy (2.2L) TZ102ZACAA + 98 legacy (2.2L)........... which all fit, correct?

I did!

Well, then how am I doing it wrong? after this first happened the car had been running for a good 10mins, and prior to it a good 30mins. when I finally got it home I checked the ATF fluid and noticed it was over the "upper level." It's bright red, and dosen't smell burnt.. Isn't that corrrect procedure to check ATF fluid?

Alright, so it would be best to get a new transmission and swap it in. Alright, thats not as bad as hearing the transmission and Axle! When I'm buying a transmission..what should be includes? I understand the torque converter + the transmission piece itself and also a warranty. Anything else? Also, I do have the torque bind issue..would it be possible that when I replace the transmission--could I solve this issue as well? And if how?? Thanks

I'm not driving the car, I can't it won't move for more then a block without the transmission cutting out. I'm not driving it out of my community area, I only drove it around today because I wanted to see if I reset the battery would help. As for shipping costs, I do have friends in FedEx which entails me to ship any package any weight in the USA for 5$ so I don't care about shipping the parts.. I do understand buying an eBay part is not the smartest thing to do, but I'm not necessarily looking for a rebuild on my transmission (to expensive) and if I go to any shop, I bet they'd just pull the transmission out of another car and say it was new, charge 3k+ and etc. I just got the car a month ago. So, I won't be getting what I paid for it back in if I sold it as is now, and I do want to keep the car for a few years (atleast 2/3 more. and I don't mind pouring some money into it.) Error codes that I know of: 11, 27, 51, 52, has ABS light on. OBD2 codes = p0500 VSS problem and P1101 NPS problem. The At oil temp light flashes 16 times, which means a serious problem, and not the Transmission overheating. When I first got the car, I experienced torque bind issues, and was informed it was alright to drive on it, that the car "won't die on me". So, thats why I've been driving it and saving a bit to spend on fixing it. Miles on the car as of now is almost 123K, it's like 122,935 but I've had it when it just turned 121'ish. Turning has been alright as long as I was over 20mph, otherwise, like parking was a bit hard (the car would shudder) but steering was fine. Gas Mileage was a bit affected if I was lucky I'd get 21/22mpg, but right before this happened I was getting barley 18. The car only stalled out once, it happened after I was backing out of my driveway (which is a small hill, if I put the car into neutral, it would roll on itself.) but when I put it into R, it would shudder violently, and pretty much if I press gas, the rpm shot high but it wouldn't translate to make the car drive, then the car shook violently and died, and warning lights came on. I moved the key to the off position, then back into the on position and it was fine, and I went around 30miles on it that evening and came back home and it was fine. Then, I left the car overnight at my friends house..and when I got back into it..accelerating felt a bit weird/loose..but I didn't pay much to it. Then maybe 20mins later I was pulling out of the parking lot where all of a sudden the transmission wasn't engaged anymore and acted as if twas in Neutral (even though it was indeed in Drive) and RPM shot up high as if it was in N. If I move the car into any gear, as in R, D, 1, 2, or 3 the car will not move at all except the inertia from the landscape (like if on a hill it will roll backwards.) and if I press gas, it'd only shoot the RPM's high. But, all of a sudden, I've noticed now that when I turn the car on, theres a wheeling/squeeling kind of noise which comes from under the engine bay..right where the transmission meets the engine (by the starter, and the sticker with the transmission code---tz102Z2aba)

Wow, after reading a bit of posts here. I also have the "lurch forward" after I place the D to P. Put on the ebrake (I'm used to driving a 5sp, so I'm keeping used to placing the ebrake on when I put my transmision into P) Also, low speed turns--like reversing out of my driveway in the R gear, and doing a 90degree turn, would make the car shudder unbeleivable, as well as uturns. I bet theres more, but that's something I felt like I should add!

Hehe, I searched torque bidn here, and I found that huge topic with many pics. I have to say it's the best compared to every other place, especially NASIOC. But, fixing torque bind is a huge issue, and isn't the diff attached to the rear of the transmission? Would, hypothetically the solenoid C (I'm looking at Subaru Dealership Manual) mean that I have "Excessive braking in tight corners?" the thing is, the car will drop the transmission engagement and act as if D is N. or am I confused about this? But, the thingy which causes torque bind, and my issue now is inside the transmission, correct? If I were to get a transmission like one off ebay--would this both cure my torque bind issue? (Especially if I get a post mid-97 one, with the OEM cure) would this cure my torque bind, and also my current issue right now? Also, I'm not suere if I mentioned this..but my ABS light is on(even if I disocnnect the battery and reconnect it, it comes up ASAP, but the at oil temp light does not pop up until I turn the car on the second time. I also, had the computer scanned after I bought the car..it from it I learned 2 OBD2 codes p0500 and p1101. But also errors of 11, 27, 51 and 52..I forgot what the meant though.. MY idea is to generally fix this car up..I don't want a swap to a 5/6mt because it'd be more expensive then just swapping the transmission and it take someone whose done it before, and Im' sure their not that cheap (I only have a bit over 1400$ to spend on this..really don't want to spend it all on this.) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-98-Subaru-leagcy-Outback-Automtaic-AWD-Transmission_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33727QQihZ022QQitemZ350085933204QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-97-SUBARU-LEGACY-FORESTER-IMPREZA-TRANSMISSION-EJ25_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ017QQitemZ270262232545QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-97-Subaru-SVX-OEM-AWD-Automatic-Transmission-44K_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33727QQihZ021QQitemZ310072340938QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

No idea, my mechanic said the timing belt looked find and needed no change, and the belt is still there I see it moving. Tune up, same the car I got with 121K, it almost has 123k now! It also has the torque bind issue, if that helps. Also, I forgot to say, I have the AT OIL TEMP light flashing 16 times, and I'm trying to do the go over 12mph, then shift from P, 1, 2, 3, D and such to get the thing to flash to tell me whats wrong...but i don't know how.

By Restart, I mean when the car won't drive anymore I have to put it in P or N, turn the car off, wait a few mins, then I'd turn the car back on, and sometimes the transmission will drive forward for a few feet..sometimes making a huge rumbling sound. Front axle..wow. And yes, my Car is a Build date 8/95 but sold as a 2nd gen 1996 model year. I have a Subaru Legacy GT BD sedan 1996 w/ the 2.5 L engine. Automatic and yes AWD. \ Recent work, hasn't been through me. But from what I know Head Gasket were replaced. Towed, not that I know off, accidents--none. Sound has just started right there and someone said it could be the torque converter. Front axle really imploded? I don't know.. Sounds easy. the 80 miles isn't really a typo. One time I went to start the car, and it had a weak reverse, shook/shuddered the whole car. Then went a few feet, which was weak then completley stalled out. but I restarted and it was all fine. I went around 3/4 days making 80 miles on it total not at once! And heh, the car died on me a few times when I was trying to make it home on the highway..heh. Jammed traffic up! The ATF looks fine, nice and pink and smells nice. To check the fluid, I pop open the hood, go to the drivers side fender, look right blow the windshield and pull the ATF straw lol. It looks exactyl the same as the one to check the oil. Thank you guys so much!!!

Wow, I'm amazed this forum is amazing.

Hey, so yesterday I was pulling out of the parking lot when suddenly my transmission acted as it was in Neutral, and the RPM shot up high. It was still in D (Yes Automatic tranny.) and it took Multiple restarts to get the car to drive again but only for a few more feet. Pretty much, if I switch it into any gear it acts as if it's on N and will roll down a hill backwards on D even. This happened before one night when reverse was weak, and when going backwards the car would shudder/jump violently and then it stalled out! (Yes, drove it 10 feet, then the transmission gave out and the warning lights on the speedometer came on, restarted it and went around for 80 miles, came back and it was fine the whole time and the next few days. The ATF fluid is always in the HOT section, even when the car was left untouched for over 8 hours, but it's pink and smells normal. Theres no leaking of fluid anywhere, and sometimes if I turn the car on now theres a grinding/wheeling noise which I think is the transmission. So, it's the transmission isn't it?