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Everything posted by Twitch de la Brat
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Im new hello
Twitch de la Brat replied to Jesslexie's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Sweet legacy my friend. Welcome to the USMB! Is that the Blitzen or just the regular B4? Also, you're not alone, as we have our awesome Mr Phizinza down undah' Hope to see you around the forum. Twitch -
A Tribute to a Subie
Twitch de la Brat replied to Olnick's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Congrats and condolences for your son. I know how he feels. When my BRAT got rear ended, it saved my life and sacrificed it's own. And glad to see he got the most desirable Outback I hunted many an hour on Craigslist for one of those in blue. I hope he enjoys it. Twitch -
You might try Napa and ask about their "Altrom" line. It's a parts line that consists of OEM manufacturer and manufacturer specific parts. Also, if you know of anyone that has a worldpac account or access, you might be able to find heavier grade intake gaskets through them.And if all else fails, call Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn WA and order the OEM's Twitch
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I don't think my engine will be capable of spinning that fast, even free revving And I know I'll be running out of power somewhere around the 4500-5000rpm range. So the desire to spin it up past that will be negated. Thank you for the tip though Twitch
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I know, I know. Unfortunately in my case, I was unable to source a reasonably priced set of new EA82 pistons, so I went with the EA71's because they were less expensive and readily available. If it blows a piston apart in the first 1000 miles I'll accept your "I told you so". Twitch
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Ok, so updates! I got flat top EA71 Pistons and and on the verge of being ready to put it all back together. I'll let everyone know how tight the tolerances are between the valves and piston. Also, the 2 nut method worked fine. I got some extra nuts and studs just in case any are stretched on the threads used to remove them from the block. Twitch
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Awwwwwwwwwww yeah... Twitch
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Any EA82 Non-turbo axle will work in your car. As long as you match fronts with fronts and rears with rears, you should be fine. And junkyard axles, as long as they're OEM, should be fine. I would try getting new axles vs reman's. Because remanufactured axles are usually worse off than used OEM. Twitch
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Noted, I'll check my clearances Oh, got my pistons yesterday! *squee* Shiny, shiny new pistons. If anyone needs to get any, the parts number is ry2666 for ITM pistons, I got a set of 4 (obviously) and they were made in Japan. They also seem to be of good quality; look OEM or better Twitch PS: These are EA71 pistons. Not EA81, they are taller and provide more compression in an EA81. I'll provide pics of how they look with the engine all together, and how far out of the hole they'll stick with .020" taken off the block
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If you need another Lego ECU I've got one laying around as well, as well as a few miscellaneous bits from my old parts car. And don't forget that I live near P&S Twitch
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Looks like I was looking at the wrong info, than you for the clarification. The pistons and rings I'm getting are ITM, so I'm not sure how they fall in the ranks of manufacturers. So far they seem to use the Beck Arnley part numbering system, and if their quality is similar, I should be good to go. Twitch
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"Chrome-moly" is an alloy featuring primarily chromium and molybdenum. The material tends to be extremely wear resistant as well as non-corrosive/corrosion resistant. It is used heavily in high grade tools and long wear items (such as rings). From my research, it appears to be the "premium" ring material. Your typical rings with be basic iron with maybe a moly face. The chrome face rings are probably chrome-moly. Twitch
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Gotcha. I'll order my hone when I find out what rings I got with my pistons. Do you guys normally get chrome-moly rings with new pistons or are they typically basic cast iron-moly? Twitch
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Ok. I'll look up some videos on youtube before I start into it, just to see how long to run it and how fast to have the drill for proper honing technique. Twitch
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Perfect, thank you. This is my first engine build and I really don't want to screw it up Do you recommend a certain type of 10w-30? Synthetic vs Conventional? Twitch
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Thanks for the tip Ivan. I know about the taper, and shockingly this little EA81 has almost immeasurable taper on the cylinder Even after 200k. But I will be focusing on the bottom of the bore more-so than the top. Do you run the bore in spinning or slide it in and then start spinning it? Twitch PS: Part Number for the pistons is RY2666, an old Beck-Arnley number. Not sure who the pistons are officially made by yet.
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Yes, and until the pistons arrive, I won't know, They might be moly, but then agaon they may just be basic iron. What kind of difference will it make? Twitch
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Going to do a hone on my EA81 and was curious about any tips on proper honing technique. Such as if the oil is a requirement and if it's recommended to do it in a certain temperature range. Figured this would be good info for anyone doing bottom end engine work. Thanks in advance guys. Twitch PS: This is the hone I'm planning on using: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002PIBBSK/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&m=A221LQEWFFVQAG
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I can validly say that Blue Devil works. I had to use it right before WCSS because the HG's popped on my EA82T and I didn't have the time or money to do a HG job. As for the lack of power above 4K, is your ignition timing dead on? As was mentioned, check your fuel filter. Make sure that's not clogged or slow flowing. Check the lash on your throttle cable, Make sure you're getting full throw out of the throttle shaft. Have you run any seafoam through the fuel system? You may have some crud or varnish in the carb. Do you have any valve tick? Do you have proper oil pressure? Improper oil pressure can cause a tick and make hydraulic lifters fail to fully inflate. That will limit your power. Twitch