Twitch de la Brat

RUN. That right there screams home ricer hack job, or at minimum he doesn't know what he's talking about. So as Bushwick said, pass. Twitch

I didn't get a printed readout of the scan, it was a handheld scanner without the ability to print anything off. But I didn't wipe the code either, so it should still be stored in the system. I e-mailed the salesman I bought the car from, but so far no response. Might be his day off. I'm going to personally look at the bottom of the engine when I get it home and search it for leaks. I don't want anything to get "missed" when I bring it in for service. I'll also check out the bushings and axles, but the car is tight as a drum while driving. Also, I know what burning axle grease smells like, this smells like engine oil; not as pungent. Its a Subaru dealer (AutoNation Subaru in Spokane Valley), so they should be able to get the OEM parts for cheaper than any of the aftermarket places around here. I hope that warranty pays for itself here shortly. Twitch

Turned off this afternoon when I started the car to get lunch. Hopefully it stays away, but I have started smelling burnt oil randomly now. HG problems? Twitch

This would explain why my 83 wagon's low beams outperform my 07 OBW's low beams. High beams are no comparison however. As for a few of the qualms mentioned by the commentators about not being able to see on a windy country road, the fogs on my 07 help immensely with corner lighting while using the low beams. Twitch

It's possible they pulled the compressor and condenser because the AC stopped working, or an accident of some sort broke the seal and the system evacuated itself, so they pulled it to prevent damage. But my money is riding on "because racecar". Twitch

So thanks to some old acquaintances down at o-really's I snagged the codes off, and FML. P0420, one saved, one pending. Good thing I got that warranty, I may end up with a whole new exhaust for free. Twitch PS: The code occurred at 2524rpm going 55mph, with the cat at 42% load and the the TPS at 20% throttle. I love it when the code reader can read the flashed info of the instance.

Easy way, look for fasteners that have been rotated or have wrench marks on them, anything that has non-subaru parts or has different grease/dirt lines than what's around it, duct tape, anything shiny and/or new, bite marks, service stickers, that's all I can think of right now. I'm sure more will chime in with other suggestions. Twitch

Awww, but the EA's were so much easier. "X doesn't do Y. What's wrong?" So much easier than "Code read this" and "code read that". Oh well, off to the dealer to pin down the code(s). Also, tidbit of info, it had been almost exactly 140 miles since I fueled up with 87 octane E10 from a Mobil gas station. Since it's emissions based most likely, I thought fuel could be a factor. Another thing, reset the filler cap when I got to work. Haven't driven it yet to see if that solved the problem. Filler cap looks new with a good seal on it. Twitch PS: Thanks Td! I'm in love so far, and even though its so new, no traction control!

I like this thread better than the one dedicated to me... Twitch

Been a while since I've seen this side of the forum. So, just got myself an 07 OBW, base model with a 5sp stick shift and only 78k on her clock. Runs great, no problems what so ever, purrs like a kitten, lots more power than even my built EA81, goes like the proverbial ape. But on day 5 of ownership (this morning's commute), it kicked out a CEL with a flashing cruise light. Reading up on nastysock and legoGT provided me with at least the idea is that it is emission or oil filter related. I'm going to call the dealership I got it from as I purchased an extended warranty with the car (3yr, 60k) and see what they can do for me. But in the meantime, any of you EJ experts have any clues for me? i may know plenty about EA and early EJ setups, but this new of an EJ is all sorts of different to me. Twitch PS: Yes, there will be a "User's Rides" thread about it, but have to come up with an appropriate name for it... PPS: "The Silver Bullet" is the current placeholder aside from "The Outback"

Clean your battery terminals if you're getting a no start issue with just clicking. My 90 Legacy gave me fits when the negative terminal got dirty. Also, pop your timing covers off again and check the pulleys. If it jumped time, you may have a pulley failure. Did you spin any of them and listen for a growling bearing? If the previous owner just did the belt and no pulleys, you're going to need a new set of idlers soon; might as well do the water pump while you're in there. Also, that toothed idler that sits below the water pump is infamous for failing first. Mine spat out the bearings and kept going thanks to the tensioner until I stopped the engine. Twitch

So no crank walk, but the disty is still jumping half a rotation. I got it to fire for a couple rotations, but not run. After that, the disty was backwards. Any ideas on what could be instigating this? Starter never slips, rotor spins normal without the cap on, but once it tries to fire the disty reverses itself. And I just realized I'm an idiot. The crank rotates twice per rotation of the distributor. I'm an imbecile sometimes. Now I just need to figure out why it won't run. More timing adjustments needed. Wow I'm stupid sometimes. Twitch

Looks super clean there. If you keep an eye on that 3AT and the vacuum regulator, it should last a very long time. The engine will probably never fail as long as you keep fluids in it. I think the asking price is a bit high, but I'm not in that vicinity, so I don't know the market. I say, get it as cheap as possible, but a good buy otherwise. Twitch

The EA71 Pistons I got were brand spanking new ITM Pistons, spec'd to all EA71's and EU and AU spec EA81's. RY2666 is the part number if memory serves. Yep RY2666 ITM brand. Can be found on Rockauto, USDM EA71 pistons. Twitch

Well, long time no update, but I went through a couple things since I last checked in. Put in an oil temp gauge, pulled 230* on the highway Running the 5w40 Schaeffer's made those Temps tolerable though. But it just decided to make the timing skip and jump to the loo. Anyone ever have that issue with an EA81? put the disty in, bolt it down solid, crank it a few times with the vacuum advance hooked up and it can pull itself up to 180* out. Am I looking at crank walk issues? Twitch

Why would you drop the both units when the transmission is fine? It's not hard to unbolt the torque converter in the car and pulling the engine out the top is far easier than dropping the whole assembly out the bottom. All subaru have a spot to hold the hood vertical, so if you pop the prop rod out of its grommet and find the hole on the strut tower, it'll let you hold the hood vertical so you can get your crane chains in there without risk of damaging anything. if you insist on dropping it out the bottom, it's not too terribly hard, as long as the car is a sufficient distance from the ground. I've done a few tranny swaps and drug and lifted a few transmissions up and into the undercarriage of a car. It's not pleasant. Dropping it all out isn't too difficult. Putting it back in is the hard part. A few notes for pulling the transmission: 1. If you pull out the rear driveshaft you're going to lose fluid. 2. Make sure you have a proper sized pin punch for the axles, I believe 03 still had the male stubs, female axles with roll pins. 3. Drop the transmission and engine with crossmembers solidly attached. Makes for a much easier removal and gives them cushion if they fall. 4. Good jack stands are an absolute must. Don't want the car or the assembly to come crashing to the ground. 5. Don't drop it all too fast, you probably forgot something and it's going to hang up on it. Hope this has helped. But I still recommend pulling the engine topside and leaving the transmission in place. Twitch

Well right now it's simply rebuilding them to make them run. But once I get a reliable DD going, the Blu Bomb is getting a treat. Stay tuned for details... Twitch PS: That thing looks sweet with those MT's and half doors.

I'm not saying stock vs stock the EA81 has more torque, I'm saying the torque band feels different, better in some ways, from an EA81 to an EJ22. With any EJ I've ever driven, if you lean into the throttle at a very low RPM (1500 or less) and a higher gear (3rd-5th) you're greeted with a bit of a sputter and no real pull. With every EA81 I've driven (properly running at least) at 1500 RPM and a taller gear, you lean into the throttle and you get a guttural growl from the engine bay, a resonation throughout the car and a slow but determined increase in RPM and speed. So while the performance between the two engines on paper may say the EJ should out-do the EA81, the in car feel is just more pleasing, to me at least. No doubt if you built an EJ22 the way I built my EA81 you could make some serious torque and grunt while keeping your top end, but it just wouldn't feel the same. Twitch

Not to dig up an old topic, but I found this while looking for an EA82T solution (lighting it on fire sounds like my best option so far). Alas, I digress. I decided to build an EA81 rather than EJ because of readily available parts and less work. I had an entire EJ22 car sitting, waiting for a donor swap sans engine rebuild. My biggest factor for not going EJ: cost (adapter plate), secondary reasons: wiring nightmare (merging harnesses), troubleshooting ease, simplicity (no timing belts), torque (I'm sorry, but the EJ22 just doesn't have that same low end growling feel an EA81 does) and noise (EA81's just sound vicious to me). So I built my EA81 to be the torquey beast it is. My combustion chamber went from stock, to just the cavity inside the head, with the addition of my EA71 Pistons and the shaving of the block and the head. .020" off the block and .010" off the head, and that head cavity is all the combustion chamber I have left. Anyone have a loose EA81 head they want to measure the total capacity of for compression ratio calculations? I'm probably over 10:1 and possibly pushing 11:1 with my setup. @Carfreak85, you got any math on compression ratios to play with? Twitch

"Mini" van eh? So you a mopar fan now? I'm glad you're still in love with your Jeep. Looks like it's been serving you well. I'll just be over here working on my old Subarus and building them, like the rest of us. Twitch

Necro-posting here, but did we ever find a solution? My 86 XT Turbo is giving me a nasty "I'll start and run when I want to" attitude. I've gone over my codes and I have code 33 (coolant sensor, known about it for a while) as a live code intermittently and code 35 (EGR Solenoid) in memory. Upon it's non-start issue I got the lovely code 11, but never otherwise. I wiggled my ECU cables (ECU has been replaced once before with a JY unit by PO) while running and I got it to sputter twice, but when it decided shut off I couldn't get it to give me even a sign of life. Mind you it had been running trouble free for over 10 minutes this drive and over an hour straight on a previous drive. Its not mechanical as it has happened in the rain, in the heat, and in the freezing cold, no consistency. After seeing code 11 I wanted to look at the disty to see if the pickup is operating properly, but I was unable to as it was dark, raining and I was already pissed off at it. Fuel pump just got replaced and it cycles, as well as the relay, every time I hit the starter. Cranks over with vigor, but no RPM change on the tach when no fire, but when it fires or tries to fire it shows 250rpm with the starter engaged. Faulty cam/crank/pickup in the disty? Failing wire somewhere? Any suggestions? Twitch

I need an update. Do you still love your jeep? Twitch

Swapped out the incandescents and my regular flasher for some cheap LED's off of amazon and by george them suckers are bright. Had to replace the backing and spring on one of the sockets as it had rusted and corroded beyond use. One quick snip and crimp and I had a new power wire. Been looking into stereos and found something interesting on a Chinese knockoff sales site: http://www.wish.com/geek/m/c/543fa37cf8abc84273b9cbff‎ 90% of what they have are Chinese knockoffs or blems of regular products. Lots off neat stuff on there. Anyway, thoughts on the radio for a 2nd Gen standard console? It looks shallow enough and of better quality of some duals I've seen... Twitch