Twitch de la Brat

I have a guy who will do a full rebuild on just about any injector for about $20. I don't remember his name right now, but when I do I'll get you his name. He does injectors for people all over and is located in Coeur d'Alene Idaho. Twitch

Well, source a lifted GL and get your hide out there and get muddin' Twitch

Sounds like you have quite the plans for that little car The EA71 is bullet proof, much like the bored and stroked version of it known as the EA81, but a bit underpowered for my tastes. Torquey little suckers though. Getting rid of that 3AT is probably the best thing you could do for that car. The tough part will be getting any tranny aside from a slim case EA71 tranny to fit in the tranny tunnel. That of course would be fixed by a lift, as little of the tranny would actually be inside the tranny tunnel... But if you went with a road car, I think you would enjoy an AWD 5sp. I've heard the XT6 tranny can be retrofitted with a viscous coupler from EJ, but don't quote me on that one. That, I think, would make for a better driving experience than a FWD The only downside would be the minor power loss and weight gain from the AWD system. But it would be more capable in the snow and real drifting FTW. Anyway, welcome and have fun on the board Twitch

Ummm, valve covers should only be a 10 or 12mm bolt. They're the one's in the middle of your valve cover. The 12 point 14mm bolts are your head bolts. They're the one's around the valve covers. Don't fiddle with those unless replacing head gaskets or rebuilding the engine. Twitch

Hey, don't worry, we're all on budgets around here. Can you describe what happens if you put it into 3rd while the engine is running, and then let out the clutch? Twitch PS:If you need any body replacement panels, pretty much any Impreza from 93-02 or 03 will match up without issue.

Ok. I was just curious. I like my white exterior too much to repaint it And I had a though of "The BRATastic Mr. Fox" Twitch

Welcome! Sounds like you've got an auto, correct? You can swap in a manual with a little wiring and some pedal swapping. Or a replacement auto can be put directly in, no rewiring required. Your engine is non-interference, so if it busts a timing belt or a pulley, you're good Also, unless you know it has been done recently, I would recommend changing the timing pulleys and the belt and possibly the water pump. That will ensure another 60k miles of no worry driving. At least for the engine timing :-p Twitch

I hope that's in mm... Sweet. Can it count as a trashwagon if it's a BRAT? :-p Twitch

I hope your roof point doesn't start to cook from that thing That heatsink looks like it could handle a heavy duty sound card, what did you get it out of? Twitch

Oh come on, 6 to the 6th degree isn't that bad... It's just exponentially worse than 6 to the 3rd degree... :-p If your hammer chucks itself at your head or a wrench jumps off the bench, punish the hammer or wrench, not the odo... Twitch

AHAHAHAHA!!!! That's awesome. I would keep that until the end of time. Twitch

1-3-2-4 How did you get a piece of the sun in your car? That sucker is BRIGHT. Looks like Tom has somebody to keep up with for "best customized interior" Twitch

Dirk, I almost wrecked when I read that. I was laughing as hard as James May driving behind Jeremy Clarkson's Citroen camper. And to answer that, is it the first time, or has it done that before? :-p Twitch

The drain and refill 3 times is only because the transmission cycles in 3 stages (more like 2 1/2, but I'll leave that alone for now) There are essentially "pockets" that fill with fluid and get pushed through, so you only can fill/empty one pocket at a time. When you drain it, you only drain the "bottom" pocket and when you put fluid in, you only fill the "top" pocket. You still have a "middle" pocket to deal with. You have to drain the bottom pocket, fill the top pocket, then drive the car, therefore cycling the fluid and moving the bottom pocket up to the top, top to middle, and middle to bottom. Then as you do it again, it cycles them one step, and then when you do it again it cycles it completely through. But there is an easier and safer way than trusting Jifi Lube. You can take the output line to the tranny cooler off at the radiator side and pour it into a bucket while running the engine and transmission in park. As the fluid drains, pour in new fluid through the dipstick hole. Continue this until the fluid coming out of the hose is the same color as the new stuff. Turn the engine off, reconnect the hose and drive it for a few miles with some extra tranny fluid in the car, as it will probably need some. Expect to use 2.6 gallons of fluid, as this is what the transmission capacity is. It is suggested to elevate the wheels off the ground and run it through the gears while it is draining/filling. A helper is very helpful when performing this. I would not recommend using the TransX as it is only for a specific problem in Subaru's and the tranny you have (the 4EAT) is very particular about it's fluid. Twitch

Hey, are you saying this belongs in the "Ancient Subaru" Forum? That car is absolutely amazing looking! I bet an EA81 would pep that thing right up (and get rid of those leather seals.) Twitch

Well, it looks like I need the longer throw fork. Gotta pull it apart. Again. And get the fork from the J/Y, unless somebody wants to donate one :-\ Woo... Twitch PS: Aside from an XT6, what fork should be the longer throw? A Turbo?

Ok, well I've got it moving. I've just got to thread it almost to the end of the threads on the cable. Thanks for all the suggestions. I guess I just was too chicken to thread it far enough. Twitch

It's all XT6 parts. And the fork is the 85 5sp fork that came with the tranny. Twitch Edit: The flywheel was machined to XT6 specs

I can't get the clutch disc on backwards. It won't fit. Any other thoughts? Twitch

I've got an 85 BRAT with an 85 5sp d/r in it with a brand spanking new XT6 clutch attached to an EA82 flywheel resurfaced to XT6 specs. It won't let go... I've been readjusting the cable almost to the point I'm afraid of getting the throwout bearing stuck on the end of the shaft it slides on. I've had to fix that problem once before So, I've got everything set properly, what am I missing? I'm currently investigating the cable, but I've practically ran out of threading on the top side of the cable, and it still won"t let go. Anybody run into this issue? Twitch

+1 Twitch

OK, so I verified that the XT6 Clutch disc matches the input shaft of an 85 EA82 Part-Time 4WD d/r. That pretty much guarantees it'll work with the rest of the EA82 Part-time d/r's. Twitch

Gopher it! Sounds like a good idea. Twitch

AHHHHHHHH!!!!!! You keep torturing me! It's like looking at the victoria's secret catalog, ONLY BETTER!!!! I guess I'll just keep eating and waiting... Twitch PS: Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!!

When you look at it, check all the connections, EG: spark plug wires, fuel injector wires, TPS wire, etc. Check out spark on all 4 plugs. If they all have spark, try starting it with a spark plug wire off one cylinder, rotating cylinders until the condition doesn't change. Follow the recommendation to check the condition of the coolant. If the coolant checks out ok and you are able to locate the dead cylinder, I recommend you buy it. It is most likely a dead fuel injector in that scenario. They can be had at the JY fairly cheap. You need to match colors of injectors for the ecu to stay happy. This should fix your issue as long as nothing else is going on. Twitch