Twitch de la Brat

I'd have to machine far too much on the SPFI intake to make it work with the Weber. So I guess my cable extension for my dremel will come in handy And the reason I wanted an EA82 intake is because they are physically larger inside and my current intake is a cali spec, so its got all sorts of extra junk on it. But I'm going to make it work. I found an oil pump with only minor scarring and I have a reseal kit coming from Rockauto. So I'm going to seal it all up and clean it all up and see where I can go from here Twitch

You'll have to check your flywheel diameters, because the FWD clutch setup is smaller than the AWD clutch setup, therefore it would be lighter. But before you buy a new clutch, check your cable adjustment, its on top of the transmission directly behind your throttle body. If you tighten it, you push the engagement further up in the pedal. If you loosen it, the engagement will be lower in the pedal throw. I'd loosen your cable a bit and see if that changes the way your clutch works for you. Twitch

I almost had to do that on my BRAT before I realized it was just the wire breaking off the connector. So that's one thing to look at for future reference of the noobies around here. Check your connector and the base wiring before you run to replace something electrical. It may just be a simple fix with a soldering gun and some new shrink/tape. Twitch

Of course! The car never actually had a t-stat in it originally because of the (unbeknownst to me) blown HG's. So I will be acquiring one from my work as well, as Napa carries "Tama" (under Altrom) thermostats that look identical to the original ones. I'll also be posting all my part numbers so if anyone needs to look up a certain part to fix their EA81, they'll have a starting place. Soon enough, 4wd burnouts will be possible (I hope). At least after the engine gets broken in anyway. Off to the JY to get a new intake and hopefully a decent looking oil pump! Twitch

Well, next time it does that, request the dealer sent a tech out to wherever the car is and test it there. Also, have the tech show your daughter the exact startup procedure he is doing. There may be a step she doesn't know about or is forgetting that is preventing the car from starting. I've heard of weirder. Twitch

For fair warning, do your best to not mangle your current bolt. Buying new bolts is difficult and good luck finding an 11x1.1.25 bolt anywhere but custom made. Deep creep by seafoam is an incredible cleaner and rust remover and a great penetrating oil. If you have a drill and a socket adapter, you can spin the bolt at high speed while keeping it coated in a rust killer to loosen up the gunk. And if it still won't come out, use a piece of sheetmetal to push the bolt out while spinning it with the drill. That should minimize any damage to the bolt and the head. Just don't get too crazy with the drill... Twitch

For resurfacing heads, you can do it yourself, as linked to above, or have a machine shop do it for you. But don't skip it. That's the quickest way to get a repeat failure. Also, check the block surface for uneveness. I know, a little overkill, but I like to make sure all surfaces are as close to flat as can be had. Doing both HG's at the same time only makes sense as you have to pull virtually everything off to get to one as you do to get to the other. Having the heads rebuilt when you have them off may not be a bad idea as the valve guide seals usually are allowing oil to seep past by this time. This will help prevent excess oil loss post reseal. Twitch

Is this a manual or CVT? Twitch

An Epson printer, a Dirtbike, a microbrew, a cat scratching post, and an inexpensive but usable kitchen table. Epix, you sir have created my perfect dining room. On topic, I put the heads on my engine tonight and bought a new water pump. Next comes the "new" intake and oil pump. Not even going to bother with the factory California spec intake with electronic carb garbage built in. EA82 intake here I come. Can a SPFI intake allow a carb to bolt up? Because I figure they got even better flow rates with the gen3 stuff. And Loyales are easy to come by in the local JY's. Twitch

The heads are on, so now I just need to adjust the valves before I apply the valve covers and check my head to piston clearances. I'm still debating on the best method for this. Any suggestions? I'm tempted by a non-sticky putty that I can fit down the spark plug hole and then retrieve after a rotation. Maybe an aluminum foil wad? Still thinking about that. Got a new water pump at work today because putting a used pump on a new motor is stupid when a new pump is just a little more than a Jackson. Going to acquire a "new" oil pump from the JY because my current one is more scarred up than my crankshaft pre-grinding. And a Beck Arnley reseal kit is only $5 ($6 after shipping) on Rockauto. Twitch

And that one was fitted with Subaru transaxle and halfshafts, shocking... Its a real shame that Toyota got banned for cheating back in the 90's. And this proves a proof of concept that an AWD BRZ can be made with off the shelf parts and a little fabrication. Come on Subaru. We all know you want the WRX to stay the AWD baby, but we also know a BRZ would look sexy flailing dirt and mud off all 4's ripping around Finland's back roads. Twitch PS: Toyota taking credit for Subaru's rally capability in a Subaru built car as "Toyota's rally DNA" kinda chafes my arse.

Hey, can you guys raise one for me? I wish I could have attended this year. Twitch

Welcome! EA71's are tough as nails as long as you keep the rust away. If you want a rally-tough look and can afford it, I suggest having the entire underbody cleaned up and shot in bedliner. That will help prevent any rust from appearing unexpectedly in that area. Beware the front fender rot. They like to let go right next to the hood. Bedlining or putting down a fresh coat of paint (after taking care of any rust) in the bed is a good step as well to prevent rust from accumulating there as well. Watch the floorboards and the lower door drains as well to keep them from rusting out. And as always, if you find rust, POR15 is your best friend. Kill it quick and avoid the pain of later. Twitch PS: You might be able to find a push bar/light bar to put on it for a nice rally look/light mounting.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/110244-clutch-servicing-without-removal-of-the-transmission/ Here's my little write-up on how to change a clutch without removal of the entire engine or transmission. I did this on an EA82, but the principle is the same on an EA81 or EA71. Now, I highly suggest having the flywheel resurfaced before you plunk a new clutch on it. Most new clutches require you to do that to maintain warranty and it only makes sense to allow two fresh surfaces to wear into each other. Best wishes on this repair! Twitch

Welcome to USMB. We're primarily into the older stuff around here (you know, budget cars) but a few of us have dipped our toes into the newer cars as well. And in reference to that, please learn the difference between "EA" and "EJ" series cars. That way when someone says they have a Loyale you don't ask them if they have a 2.2 or not. EJ's are designated "Newer Generation" and EA's are "Older Generation" on here. Just as a warning most of the older Subarus are "uncool" by the new generation because they don't make 300hp+. But don't be afraid to blow the mind of an old school fan with your knowledge of the oldies (and goodies). Twitch

Pulling an EA81 is super easy and fast with an engine hoist of some sort. Not to mention its more work to put an Auto in than to drop in a new clutch. Also, have you checked your clutch cable adjustment? It may just need to be readjusted. Twitch

Just a note for those that weren't at WCSS14, you may want to bring some sort of soap or car wash if you're going to play in the Mudpit. The local authorities don't take too kindly to mud being spread on their streets. Also, be patient with the hose, there was only one last time and we don't need anyone getting upset or grumpy about having to wait in line to wash their car. Also, the quicker you get the mud off, the easier it will be. When the more clay they have there dries, the harder it is to get off. I had to use an ice scraper/credit card on my windows to get it off in a timely manner. Also, for everyone's notice, are the showers going to be open this year as well? Twitch

Did some rocker assembly cleaning and lubrication Also learned that while just because you can remove circlips without the proper pliers, it doesn't mean you should. But soon, since my rockers and their respective parts are back together and clean, the heads will find themselves back on the engine. Lets hope the steel core composite permatorque gasket will handle the extra pressure Progress marches on! Twitch

Unfortunately we didn't get the diesel here in the US, so I have almost no knowledge on the engine itself, sorry. And I know pretty much nothing about the management system Subaru has running on it, so V-Tech is out of my realm of expertise as well. You may inquire of Phizinza and see if he has any useful knowledge for you, as I believe he is still down under Our rally/race experts may be better at your suspension mod questions. Numchux, Suberdave, Turbone all have lots of knowledge with those sorts of goodies As for stereo stuff, (something I actually know about) I highly recommend finding the right setup for the music you/your wife listens to. The different materials and response of each component can make a huge difference in your listening experience. So, what kind of music do you listen to? Twitch

I don't have the torque specs for the cam keepers, but the cam bolt tightening I can help with. There is a hex shaped portion on the camshaft right behind the rear cover plate. I don't recall off the top of my head what size it is, but I believe its larger than 1". You can get a good grip on that to tighten the cam bolt back into place. If you use old impact methods (breaker bar and a hammer) you can it back to proper torque by hand. Twitch

Hey hey! Another local! I'm up in the Coeur d'Alene area myself. Welcome! If you have any questions, feel free to message me, or if you need some pointers on where to get the best stuff for your rigs This place really is one of the best around for Subaru advice. Twitch

Well, I'd make it removable without compromising the value or structure of the vehicle. BRAT's are getting harder and harder to find. The side rails aren't really strong enough to hold that much weight, as they're basic sheetmetal. But if you made "feet" for it to mount it in the bed, that may be a more effective option. Possibly just use the side rails as lateral supports rather than the primary load bearing surface. Twitch

Check to make sure your latch mechanism isn't frozen. Shoot a little deep creep/pb blaster into it and actuate the mechanism a few times. It should loosen up and you might even see a little rust drip out. Also, make sure your latch handle is all the way down before you shut it. The return spring may not be pulling the handle all the way back to the "closed" point. Twitch