Twitch de la Brat

It sounds to me, my friend, that you have been scrooged. I would recommend heavy doses of spirits and a bfh. You have ways of finding out where he sleeps, don't you? MWAHAHAHAHAAAA Twitch

A loose hot wire can move into a position so as to short out on the alt, or it can short out onto the frame or block etc if it falls out of the connector. I'm just wondering why the fusible link didn't toast itself with such a power drain... And as for the reading's you're getting, your wiring harness sounds at fault. Have you unplugged the harness and tried testing the "ohm" (upside down horseshoe) rating from prong to prong in the harness plug? A wiring diagram would be incredibly helpful so as to save you time by canceling out the prongs that you know are supposed to be connected. And I'm glad you decided to keep working on it. I knew it had to be the frustration talking. Twitch

I have the same problem. Only my wipers don't chatter, they're silicone and they slide nice and easy. I do have issues when there is only a little water to be wiped, but when there is a decent amount water they work fine. I found them at wally world. Yellow and grey packaging if I remember properly with their "triple edge" technolgy. And as for the spring, I concur with bheinen74, just rig up a helper for it. A small bungee cord would probably work just fine. Twitch

Connie, I'm sorry the coupe failed you. I hope you find someone that can use it and love it. If I lived on the East coast I would gladly help you with it, but alas I do not. I hope the best for you and wish we could've helped you get it going. Twitch

Not trying to hijack, but has anyone ever used an ociliscope to view the frequency going to speakers? And if so have you run an LED to the output so that it lights up as the volume increases? Twitch(?)

Faulty manufacturing is what it looks like to me. Especially since it stripped along a layer. Unless you were driving it like a bat out of #311. That might explain it. Severe over heating can cause separation like that. Twitch

Ok, I'll add a little experience in here, not much, but I'll try. I know how you feel connie. I've had my fair share of electrical problems with my lego. I'll try to give you some diagnostic methods you can use. Laymans terms (or laylady's terms :-p) try pulling all the fuses and letting the car sit overnight. Test the battery after you pull the fuses before you let it sit. The next day, test it again. This method will let you know if the problem is in a circuit, and allow you to calm down and not stress about the car for a while. If it still drains with all the fuses pulled, you've probably got a short in your main wiring harness. If it doesn't, then you can put your fuses back in, one by one until you find which one has the draw on it. Ok? I hope it helps, Twitch

Well, the caliper let loose with a little massaging (from a BFH) and works fine now. I guess it just got stuck. A full brake rebuild is in the plans after I get another DD. I'm still driving it, but there is nominal brake rub now. Not enough to affect performance cuz I can still push it by hand, but enough to get a scent of burning brakes after a long drive. I've been working on lubing up the calipers so that they can last until my new DD arrives. Any suggestions? I need to be able to pull this thing apart and put it back together again within a day, cuz a guy at work just got fired and his gf may be quitting soon. Not to mention another driver is going out for 2 weeks to have a plate pulled out of his thigh :-\ So, uh, yeah. I need to be able to do anything to my car in a very short time frame. Thanks again, Twitch

I agree with you on everything but the grill. It looks too much like the tribeca's grill. Oh wait, it is the tribeca front end! I like the back the sides even the interior is nice, but the grill just looks horrendous. Give me the tribeca's original nose on the out back and you have a mean looking car. Just my $.02 Twitch

Ok on the gaskets. And as for the caliper, that's exactly why I have a BFH and a wood block And holy crap! $101.00?!? Eeeesh! is right! I guess I'll definitely have to check into csk/O'reileys. Thanks for the help though.

Yes, but it is not currently functional. And doesn't that connect to the rear brakes anyway? Oh, and lots of thanks to backwoodsboy and 1337 crayon for the diagnosis. My boss is not going to be happy. Crap. There goes my job. Especially if this takes more than a day or two to fix. Thanks for the time estimations backwoodsboy. Off topic, but what are you using for gaskets to put together your "125 hp" EA81? I'll be doing the same with my brat engine after I can get a reliable DD. Twitch

OK, well last night my drivers side front brake semi locked up on me and will not let go. I had to drive through a puddle just to get the thing to cool off and quit smoking. This is my 1985 Brat with 255k, 4 speed D/R, original Engine, tranny, everything but the alt (that's a 100a gm ) is basically stock. I haven't done anything with it so far and just wanted to get some suggestions from the brain trust. :-p I haven't messed with the brakes on this car before and have almost no idea where to start from. I was considering just taking a prybar to the calipers and maybe a sledgehammer as well. JK Any help? Cuz I work at 4 and I need this thing to work before then. I'm a pizza delivery driver. :-\ So uh HELP! Thanks in advance Twitch

Now I have never thought about doing something like that. I believe the pop panels were for easy access to do maintenance and repairs. I have used the drivers side panel in the trunk to beat some dents out of my tailgate. I have pondered putting some powdered sugar in my friend's hatch though... :-p I was thinking about some waterproof subs behind where the jumpers would be. But more likely the waterproof speakers in the side panels idea. It would make my tunes sound that much better. I'm gonna keep an eye on this thread, it has a ton of potential. I'll be watching

So that's what you've been up to... Well at least you've been up to something worthwhile :-p Sweet seats, and I concur with turbone (although I have no clue ) Oh, and you still don't have those subs installed yet? Twitch

Ummm, his makes noise when he takes his foot off the pedal, not when he puts it down on it. It may be a bearing of some sort? Possibly the axle stub? :-\ Ummm, maybe the torque converter? Not too sure on this one Twitch

Heh, when I bought my 1980 brat, I had to use two full cans of Raid to kill all of the nests. I believe I counted 6 in the bed area and canopy, 2 gargantuan ones inside the front fenders, 3 in the tailgate (the pop panel had been removed), 1 in the cab, and one inside the bed (a pop panel had been reinstalled INcorrectly and allowed a gap that was just big enough) And I didn't get stung once! Twitch

Soooo? EXACTLY my thoughts there Turbone. Twitch

Well there's the problem. My gf had the same battery and the thing would barely turn the car over. And the car is a a mazda 626 :-\ Yup, good idea. I will never buy anything of any major consequence from walmart and will never recommend anyone buy anything from there. Batteries especially. Twitch

I agree completely! But I would personall prefer the EJ18 because of fuel economy and price. Smaller engine=less cost. I would also prefer that AC is optional and the cost from the extra crap be deferred to drivetrain improvements. SO it may not have heated/cooled seats but it has a 6sp d/r tranny and only a $20,000 price tag. That would be :cool: And I challenge Subaru to do it by the 2012 model year. Exactly 25 years after the last BRAT was produced. Come on urabuS! Get back to your roots. "Inexpensive, and built to stay that way" Twitch

In addition to Mcbrat I would shoot as much graphite as possible towards the back of the door. That's where the latch linkage is. That linkage can get pretty rusty. Also, on mine, the latch activation lever can get stuck in the "almost released" position. You might have to push that down and then shoot graphite on that thing until it get slick enough to slide down by its self. Also the locking system pushes the lock bar out of the way of the latch activation lever so that the door cannot be unlocked. Sometimes the lock bar gets stuck too far up for the key to be able to push it back into position. I had the same problem and ended up just reaching in and pushing things around until I could get the lock bar back into relative position. It now works but every other week I have to shoot a ton of graphite on it. If you can't unlock the door it sounds like you may have the same problem. Its a bit of a pain to get to with just a bare hand, so a few pairs of needle nose pliers may make it easier. Hope it helps Twitch

Sweet! And nice job on the convertablization... That's a job I would be proud of (if I had done it :-p) Sweet ride man, enjoy! Twitch

Hence the petition... And if we get it through to subaru that there is a demand for it, they will have to consider building it...

So, there's been a lot of talk about wanting a 3 gen brat... I say we start a petition! I personally would like a brat with the 07 imp front end, frameless windows, t-tops, and I'll give subaru the chance to not screw up the rest of the body... But I want an EJ18 with a turbo option, a 5sp d/r tranny minimum, preferably a 6sp d/r with clutch style rear lsd standard. Plus Brat only 8 spoke white wheels, just like the old style, but 16 inch 5 lug. Please, feel free to join in with your comments and your support! Twitch

Hey, up here in N ID, when its cold and snowy, I use a sled as a creeper. And my "shop" is about the same as yours. Only my "tool shed" is my passenger seat and behind the seats of my BRAT. Or the car sitting next to my BRAT. My dad has a shop I can use, if he's not using it Twitch