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Everything posted by crash321
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You would have a knocking noise if the crankshaft was moving around like you descibed. I would first suspect the engine mounts and trans mounts. You described the the vibration still happens while parked so this is where I would look first. The engine and trans move as one when the engine is torqued so looking at both mounts may yield an answer. If those are good, you should look at the harmonic balancer on the front of the engine. They do wear out (believe it or not) and is something most people don't look at. Good Luck.
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AC problem
crash321 replied to jcniest5's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Yes. My 98 Outback did this until it finally siezed causing a cloud of belt smoke from under the hood. Internal failure can cause your issue. -
AC problem
crash321 replied to jcniest5's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
A friend of mine had the same issue. He though it was fine till I threw on the gages. Way over charged. The temps spiked up one day causing the pressure to increase in the A/c System and causing the high pressure limit switch to cut the compressor. I think you are right on the money Gary. -
I have always used a method that is really simple to determine what kind of oil is dripping. I simply put cardboard underneath and pull it out after about an hour. This does tow things. I can tell where the oil leaked and I can smell the fluid that leaked. Diff fluid has a smell very different from motor oil. I think it is easier to do than degreasing and waiting (although degreasing is a good thing especially once the leak is fixed). Just my .02
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No. Watch this and you will see why.
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Early 90's legos are either fwd or they are full time awd.
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That pic is precious:lol:
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I tried to do a search for you, (I am a nice guy, excuse me as a cast up my broken arm) but I started going blind searching through the many pages. I did however read through one thread were a guy swapped an engine and found that his computer read a reluctor on the back side of his cam sproket and his crank. He needed to get the ones from his old engine and swap them out so the computer knew when to spark and fuel. Just throwing it out there. Good Luck!
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If you don't have a spark tester, just pull a plug out and ground it to see if you have a spark jumping. You need to find if you have the basics to run this engine. Check all of your connectors and make sure that you plugged them back in. I have read on here somewhere where someone have the same problem as you. It had something to do with either the cam position sensor or the crank position sensor (I can;t recall if subies have a crank position sensor). Anywho, you need to know if you have spark.
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did you check for spark. What year, model of car??????????????
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Rust repair,radius rod mount
crash321 replied to ivantruckman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
That is a huge hole. Glad you know what your doing:) -
I believe that was a slanderous statement:rolleyes: I have had chevys that go 250,000 with no problems and while I was a tech I have seen them with 300,000 + (one with 600,000 with original engine, not rebuilt) But anyhow, I think this guy just wants opinions on what everyone thinks, and he can make up his own mind on what he wants to do. If he rebuilds it, I say more pwer to him. If mine were to go south (98 2.5 OBW) I would more than likely go with the 2.2 for the cost, reliability, and to some, it being superior to the 2.5. My .02
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Seems to me you have bad luck with collisions. sorry to hear that. My sister hit one with her motorcycle a few years back on deckerville rd, only she killed it.