bratman18

Yeah that's pretty much the same idea I had. I know that sometimes with the rust it can be a pain!

Definitely try those things first, but an answer to your question is, yes they can go bad that early! Damn 2.5's! Good luck, hopefully the cap and flush fixes your problem!

No the diff only goes up in place one way, so you won't need to get an alignment. Gloyale is right about how you should go about it, but since I have dealt with a lot of rusty cars, I think I know what your dealing with! Hope what I said can help

I don't think he has the manual yet, he was waiting on it to show up.

Wonder if e-mailing the people who made the website would help. They should definitely correct it for others who stumble upon it while trying to fix their car! I tried to find a way to contact them and couldn't find any.

He already tried that! And I assume because of rust, he couldn't get it off the outer splines. So I was suggesting that he try the outer splines. I was just trying to make it easier for him to get it off.

What years were they available? I thought they stopped after 95

You shouldn't have to as long as you lower the rear diff. That's why you lower the rear diff, so you'll be able to get the axle out

yeah exactly!! Looks like a pretty strong setup

:lol:That's funny! Good luck!

yeah it's very easy to take the rear diff sown to remove the axle. Just undo the two nuts on the oxbow, and then I just flex the oxbow out and off the two bolts. Then it just hangs there. Then if you have to, you can remove the other bolt that goes through the bushing mount attached to the rear crossmember. You might have to support it a little though so that it won't pull the axles apart. Good luck!!

no kidding! Those would work well if they were lengthened for the newer ones!

the EJ18 wasn't made after 95 AFAIK

No you don't need a new axle because of that little piece. It's a dust/grass shield. But what about getting diff side of the axle off? try lowering the diff like I said before and then removing that end of the axle of the splines of the diff. then pull the whole axle out of the hub.

It should be! 82-87 is when they were made and I believe all Gen 2 Brats were EA81

Not too bad. fairly self explanatory. You need a 36mm socket to fit the axle nut though.

It should be, but it depends on how hot it really got around the motor. I would be on the search for a newer Brat with the EA81 and 4 spd dual range!!

For what it's worth, I have a regular Brat clutch and pressure plate on a machined flywheel in my 5 spd dual range Brat

Holy crap super clean car!!! That's gonna be real nice when it's done! Everything looks so new. As for the proportioning valves for the rear discs, I don't think you need to do anything. Just use the stock setup. That's what I did with great results and I know a few others have as well. Keep us updated on this project, I know we will all want to over it!

So what is the motor that you pulled out of the other Brat? What year is the Brat? If it's a Gen 2 Brat you should grab the dual range tranny too!!

Very nice! Sounds really mean. So I bet you can pull right away from all the kids in their WRX's?!! That's really cool and really impressive numbers!

That would look cool!! Kind of like an old blown muscle car, but instead it's a turbocharged VW motor in an old school suby!!!:banana:

my 00 RS has a VLSD as well, I believe that 00 and 01 RS's came with them.

Bill where did you get those? What are they from?

I agree with this. There was a time when most American vehicles were built half way decent, and they would last a long time, they were reliable, and they took a beating, but I'd say somewhere in the mid eighties, they started going down hill. I do agree that all makes have their issues but as a rule you either have to have older American(if it's still in ok shape) or a foreign car, which for me means Japanese!