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bratman18

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Everything posted by bratman18

  1. The site that you linked is a member here. It is Backinbrat maybe he can help you sort out some ideas.
  2. Yeah same here, I have Polaris 500 and the tires only take about 6 lbs. It's crazy that they will work on something like this!
  3. What knock sensor are you using? The cheapest I've ever seen one was 65 bucks, and depending on the intake ducts that are on the car, can take more like 15 min to change. Still pretty easy.
  4. Looks pretty good! Did you pull any trim or anything when you painted your Brat?
  5. The subaru mechanic I worked for was working on subarus for at least 20 yrs and has done them the same way since he started and has never needed to retension them. The only time he ever goes back in is to replace them again 60+ thousand miles later. That's what I'm going by.
  6. yes they will be short but that's why you build some blocks for the rear. I think there is a how to on subarubrat.com or subazero.com There is a good pick on subazero.com Go under subaru build and suspension.
  7. yeah sounds like the torsion bar is no good. You should put the rear coilovers back in.
  8. I would think you could easily run a bar behind the seats and weld it to the floor on each side. And then attach harnesses to that.
  9. Yeah if it can be done with a Loyale, than you could do it to a Brat.
  10. yes and I would think it would be somewhere close to where those numbers were. It should be just to the left of the disty, and back a little. Or maybe towards the back near the bell housing. You don't need to remove anything to see it.
  11. I have no idea what those numbers are. There has to be a stamp there someplace that says EA81 or EA71. It is only a couple inches long at the most, and is a stamp. Maybe someone else will know what that number means.
  12. Sweet! So with it in lo range it will be well below the stock gearing. It should go quite nicely
  13. As for the front struts...yes you can put Loyale style into a Brat. They fit right in. But I'm not sure about doing too much welding on the side of the strut. I would think that it would get them too hot and cause premature failure, But I would love it if someone said different.
  14. If they are done right in the first place there is no need to retension them. I have heard of shops having people come in to retension the before, but they were not shops that ever work on Subarus, and again, if they are done correctly you shouldn't have to retension them until they need to be replaced.
  15. Yeah you can remove the lower shock bolt too, but I've always just removed the two bolts for the rear diff and lowered it enough to take the axle off. And then yes you need to use a punch and hammer and remove the lock ring in the back of the hub. I figured he'd see that himself. I live where the rust is terrible and mine was quite rusty, but I was still able to get everything apart without much trouble. Yes the bearing race will most likely be a three piece deal. So you'll have to drive them out from the outside individually.
  16. Looks good! I always took a propane torch and lightly went all over the surface of the bumpers. It made them go right back to a nice semi-glossy black. It always worked great for me. Just make sure you don't hold it in one spot....obviously it will burn if it gets too hot
  17. Welcome! Lots of info here! Look forward to seeing your car
  18. There is a pin just behind the rear hub and then another that is closer to the rear diff. Honestly either one will work. But you will also have to lower your rear diff to get the axle off. Then once the rear diff is lowered and the pin is out, the axle should slide off the splines and then you'll be able to use a wood block and hammer the shaft out of the hub
  19. yes you need to remove the rear cv axle to get to the bearing. You need to punch out the pin, and remove the rear axle, so that you can remove the stub shaft that goes through the hub.
  20. Well the only way to really tell is to pull them all. You can't always tell just by looking at them
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