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Everything posted by bratman18
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Sweet welcome and lets see some pictures!!
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You would have to basically get a complete 4wd parts car. Then transfer the whole rear end assembly. To do that you have to drill holes for the mounting. The transfer transmission, drive shaft, center bearing mount. Its quite a bit of work but I guess if your car is in really good shape and you want to do it, it can be done!! And 4wd is a lot of fun!
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1988 Hitachi'd EA82 GL wagon project
bratman18 replied to sprale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
yup! I agree they are not that heavy, and now you have the heads off so it's even lighter! -
Very nice, I want one!!
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correct, but if its the same style car it should be fine:banana:
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they should be the same. Only options were different on these cars. The drive train etc. was the same.
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1988 Hitachi'd EA82 GL wagon project
bratman18 replied to sprale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I set up a section of pipe staging then I used an oak plank, but anything strong will work. Then I attached the come along to the plank using some rope then I ran the cable out hooked it onto the motor and yanked 'er out! and the when I put the new on in I slowly released the come along and lowered it back in!! You could also use a tree, with a come along attached! -
1988 Hitachi'd EA82 GL wagon project
bratman18 replied to sprale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
When I did a motor job by myself I used some pipe staging and a come along! -
4WD. Awd has better driveability. So that you can turn easliy on the road and you don't notice it. When you are in 4WD you will notice driveline bind.
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Good luck and glad to help!
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yup I've never payed attention to which direction I pound the pins out and I've never had one that won't come out. I too have replaced more than I can remember. I live in the rust belt and have never had one rusted in. I have had a rear axle that was rusted onto the splines but even then the pin came out with no problems.
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+1. Also look into actual companies that make aftermarket performance products. Like Greddy, etc. I know some of them are targeted towards the "tuner" market but there a lot of companies that make a lot of good products that will fit your car. But you will also most likely pay a fair amount. But yeah don't install a 2.5 to get more power. They do have more torque but not enough to change your known reliable motor for one that is known for problems. I have headers, cat back, cold air intake, nology hot wires, and lightened crank pulley on my rs and I noticed quite a bit of a difference. So I would imagine that if you threw on a bunch of bolt ons on your car than it would help as well.
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yeah probably. Check out ebay. There are a few headers on there, most of them are for the 2.5 but I have seen them on there before.
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That's impressive! I didn't think a roller would do that could!
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You can by an aftermarket head pipe (y-pipe) That will help free up some power. I have on my RS and it is a noticeable difference. Most aftermarket ones don't look anything like a y-pipe
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Ok big thanks to crockettbrat! I should have checked thoroughly to begin with but it was the plugs!!! I pulled them cleaned them and regapped them and no more skipping! I just didn't think it could be that simple because it was fine one day and skipping the next. But thank you for your help!
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Could also be the fact that THEY ARE ON A SUBARU!
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Yeah:rolleyes: probably not as good as it should be! I'm gonna pull the plugs and see what they look like. The wires don't appear to be too bad. They are NGK and are in good physical condition. and I just had the Dist. cap off a little while ago and it didn't appear bad. But I will check again. Thanks again!!
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Ok so I took the duct out and I think I found bad news!. The foam that you can see from where the heater core is, is soaked. It looks like it is the heater core. It appears as though the coolant is actually coming out of the box that the heater core is in!. But now that I look at it, it looks like changing it without removing the dash won't be so bad. And I don't have my computer on that side because of the SPFI conversion.
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Ok so the fuel pump is not the culprit. The exhaust smells like a lot of unburned gas. What would this be?
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alright I'll check that. Thanks!
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I honestly have a hard time seeing the valve itself. Is there anything I can remove to see it any better? And how exactly do I change it. I've never done anything like this before...Never had too!
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It seems to be getting enough fuel its more electrical. But maybe? I will recheck.