952.2LX

Your extension is now in the bottom of your flywheel housing, I believe. You will probably have to take the engine out to separate the tranny from the motor to get the loose 3/8 extension out. A mechanic may be able to just separate them a little bit while still in the car, but i dunno. Thats why I do not condone going that route to remove the crank bolt which is on the entire other end of the engine. I advise not driveing the car.

sorry for the late reply but if you or anyone wants a novice guide for doing these repairs I'll e-mail it to you. it'll be 3 emails of around 5mb each. I just need the addy's.

Yes the axle came out and the boot stretched to its limits as the entire hub and brake assembly just swung out away from the car. So, I had to remove the boot exposing the loose axle. I couldn't get it back in outboard joint cuz the steering had locked up. So i turned key on and got the steering free. Then I positioned the axle back into the outboard cv joint and slighty rotated the brake rotor to get the axle splines lined up and it sliped right back into the joint. Next I put more grease into the joint and put the boot back on with clamps. I rotated the hub slowly to see if it was going to turn ok and see if there was any weird sounds or clicks of something out of place. It seem smooth as the other side so i presumed it was good to go.

Well I do care. So, apparently the outboard joint came apart....if you (Gary, John?) care to explain, I would be most appreciative. Its driving fine right now. What do i need to do to fix this?

It just came out of the wheel hub(outboard cv joint) not the transmission stub. And all four wheels where on her when i drove her home ! !

The axle came out of the inside hub without removing the outside axle nut. The steering locked up, so had to turn key on and then I aligned the axle back into (outboard CV joint)bearing housing. and added grease and rebooted. It went well except for breaking a separater. The ball joint came out with the wedge and the new one went in fine. The other side went smooth as butter. I test drove her and she is TIGHT!!!:banana: thanks all.

yea i just got it back in. Thanks for the info. So there is no clip holding the axle into the wheel hub? oh well it looks like its all back in. Now for the other side.

I am (was) trying to replace the ball joints on my 95 impreza. Thought it was gonna be easy but some how the axle pulled out of the hub and the steering is now locked up. ... I was following the instructions and when i separated the ball joint the whole axle just like pushed out towards me ..and the wheel was turned towards me i guess from getting the joint loose....now what do i do? I put the new ball joint in....now do i need to pull the hub i guess and re clip the axle back in?....or should i dissconnect the steering linkage and then get the ball joint in and then the axle? any help would be most appreciated. update: ok i turned the key on to turn the wheels back straight.

More info: Type of car? Milage? Maintenance history? Would help. I'm guessing the sound is from wheel bearings and the movement probably ball joints. There are others on here though who can diagnose a lot better than I.

Hold on a sec.... I am just about done with a detailed instruction of doing what is called a "nose job" on a 2.2 liter engine. Which includes replaceing all the seals. I did mine a couple of months ago and have documented the entire process. Its in a .doc right now and i am unsure as how to share it best. but i'll try to finish it up tonight and if anyone wants i'll e-mail it to them for now. Its a guide by a novice for a novice...i'm sure there are lots of areas that can be improved on or done differently....I just know that the work i did seems to have been successfull.

cool thanks for the response mssmith.

I'm shopping for some struts for my 95 Impreza LX. I have oem's on with 250+k miles on them. The backs are a little bouncey not bad, but I figure with the age of the car, all four should be replaced. Especially with my driving style. So the questions I have are. 1. KYB's or monroes or brand X ? 2. Should I replace the springs and mounts also? If so, where to get springs? 3. What about suspension bushings? should these be replaced at some point? 4. What about Body bushings? 5 Wheres a good place to shop for these parts?

1995 Impreza 2.2 ; 252,000 miles on her. replaced tranny at around 240,000, with one 100,000 miles younger. changed oil and filters every 3-5k. Use Lucas oil stabilizer. Replaced steering rack and pump (which was leaking bad). Just did a nose job on her. First time for me and it was soo easy.(except getting the crank bolt loose.) Gotta keep up the maintenace. Running great! needs struts. and suspension bushing wouldn't hurt.

Could be a bad WP gasket. Thats whats going on with mine... a small leak on the WP gasket....loses a little coolant ...radiator a little low...overflow not filling up.

cool Danny! you got National exposure! LOL . yea joining my local SCCA this weekend and gonna start gettin into rallying more. I have a need for speed!

1997 i'm getting ready to do the same thing on my 1995 2.2 AT. Luckily I have the non-interference 2.2. It's great reading so many post on doing a "nose job" on these. Lots of info. Keep posting. I am gonna try and take pics as I go when I get started.

If ya need any assistance with autoCAD let me know. I think cobcob also knows a thing or two about CAD.

I've had no problems with aftermarket plugs and wires on my 95 Impreza with 250k miles. I've replaced them several times and To me its just not worth the extra 50 bucks everytime to use OEM wires. Now if I had a newer soob with maybe 50k miles, yea I might consider OEM wires. Just my 2 cents worth.

Ok, I now have all the parts except for a new set of tb covers. Waiting on that....and then the weekend will happen. Probably also gonna help cobcob with a couple of 2.2 hg's he needs to replace. So that'd be a good experience.

Well the weather looks like snow and a high of only 35...brrrr...it'll still be a blast though.

Yea the dealer had the O-ring and crank seal for my ej22...I guess I didn't ask for the right part.

Ok, thanks Rx I'll ask again at the dealer. I'll ask for the "pressure port o-ring". Does anyone know of a good exploded view drawing of the ej22 oil pump? In addition the chiltons is asking to measure the distance between the rotor and walls and some other measurement. It states that if this is OT then replace them. Is this really necessary? I have to add that I have 250xxx miles on my ej22 and i'm doing this nose job, 1). for experience 2). cuz its my daily driver and I want to continue driving it for awhile. Still need a set of TB covers also, if anyone knows of a good set with bolts.

Ok, I will give Jason a call. I dunno its just conflicting information. The chiltons says there is one, but doesn't show it on a exploded view of the pump? The dealer here in Springbilly says there isn't an O-ring? But here on the forms I've heard there is an O-ring to replace when doing a nose job on an ej22.???

Yeah this will be a blast, hopefully we'll have nice weather.

speaking of oil pump o-rings. I asked the dealer for this part and they said my engine doesn't have an "oil pum oring"...it just seals to the block? Anyway is this correct? I have an ej22 engine 1994 aug. build.