Olnick

I did it. Finally. Got the shifter out of my '95 Legacy and replaced all the bushings. Or, in my case, added bushings where there were none! Spent weeks reading and researching, more weeks collecting the parts . . . and months trembling in fear! Wasn't easy but it's probably the most satisfying improvement I've ever made to a car. Tight, firm and smooth. I can now make every shift with a flick of the wrist and minimal hand movement. I'd forgotten how sweet it could be. Put in Kartboys front and rear for the stay rod--nice firm and stable feeling. Had to use OEMs for the "universal joint" at the boss that connects to the transmission's shift rod (wish someone made a more durable product for there but it appears not). Absolutely the best and most reasonably priced mod (about $20) was Turn in Concepts "pivot bushings" for the shift lever-to-control rod joint. The old OEMs were in good condition but the TiC parts--Wow, what a difference in feel! I know this is already too long, but for anyone interested here are some notes: 1) The inner roll pin came out quite easily. I attribute this to the automatic oil mister system installed on the car (leaky valve covers?) Put the shifter in 5th. Used a 3/16" punch held in a 3/8" socket on a 6" extender to drive it. 2) Slid a 9/32" socket, a couple of old nuts and a couple of washers onto the punch (thanks Subyluvr2212 for the idea) so that about 1/4" of the punch tip stuck out. Gaffer taped it all together and started pounding. Nothing! Couldn't budge the large roll pin mainly 'cause I couldn't get a straight "on-axis" shot at it. Finally admitted defeat, soaked the area with PB Blaster and buttoned the car up. Figured I'd have to tear the tranny support out the next weekend. 3) Secret weapon: My son came home from college that week--so I had him sit in the car and firmly push the shifter forward (still in 5th) and outward (toward passenger side.) That extra half inch of distance and few degrees of twist allowed a straight shot at the roll pin. 4) Fifteen minutes or so of pounding, then my son heard a loud "Yes!" from under the car. Pin popped out. 5) From joy to desolation: Realized that the boss had to be driven off the shaft next. Uh-oh! Asked him to shift to reverse and couldn't believe what I saw. The boss slid right off and fell loose (that automatic oiler again?) He heard sheer happiness from underneath the car. 6) Took the unit out, disassembled the "universal" linkage (which didn't have a shred of bushing left in it) and cleaned everything thoroughly. Reassembled with well-greased new bushings. 7) Installed rear Kartboy. Had to do this from above, working blind. Put it in upside down! Took it out, wiped it down, re-greased it and put it in again . . . upside down. At that point I knocked off for a quiet lunch (I wasn't speaking to myself) after which, miraculously, it went in right side up. 8) Putting it all back together was pretty straightforward. Lining up the boss-to-shift rod holes for the roll pins was a little tricky but eventually I got it. 9) Next morning I got up and actually looked forward to driving to work! Some notes about the aftermarket parts, which I heartily recommend: Kartboy lists their stay rod bushings as being for '97 or '98 and newer Subarus, but thought they should work in earlier models. They seem to be just fine in my '95 Legacy. Turn in Concepts doesn't make the "pivot bushings" for early Legacies but after weeks of discussion and emailing measurements and photographs they cut a metal "crush tube" to the size I needed (about 25mm IIRC). All I had to do was trim about 3mm off one of the urethane bushings to get a tight fit. I dealt with Clint, one of the owners of TiC--super pleasant, super helpful Subaru lover himself. They also cut a few extra tubes to have in stock so if you're interested tell him you want the "Nick's '95 Legacy" model! (By the way, I have no connection or financial interest in this--just want to see my friends get a fantastic mod at a great price!) Wow, I do talk a lot. Anyway, Aloha all.

As the proud owner/operator of a '95 2.2 I can assure you--it's one fine hunk of aluminum.

It is, Oh, and congratulations on your success!

Nice summation, grossgary. There's a lot of wisdom in your statement. Thanks.

You can search right here on USMB too. Type in Idle Air Control IACV. Good luck.

Thankyouthankyouthankyou, Ed!

Amen to that, nip. Finsol, I'd bet that is exactly where your problem lies. I've never messed with mine but I'm pretty sure it has been discussed here before. Try a search for hill holder and see what you can turn up. If that doesn't help then I'm sure someone will chime in with help. Good luck.

You're a lucky guy, Sako. Fits right in with my theory that Subaru owners are the most caring, considerate people on the road. USMB offers ample proof of that! And +1 on the engine coolant temperature sensor as Emily said. Skip's suggestion of checking/cleaning the IACV is a good idea too. Aloha!

Check to see if Alabama has a Consumer Protector's office. Talk to your local BBB office. Call the DMV and see if they can help you or point you in the right direction. It all depends on the laws of your state. Since they just sold you a car that apparently is not serviceable you may have some rights. But do it asap. Good luck.

Nice pix, Andyjo!

Not quite. I believe Legacy L models have discs all around. My '95 does.

Check prices at some of the online Subaru parts houses, then call Jason at Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn, WA, 866-528-5282. Nice guy, very knowledgable and always, in my experience, has the best prices you can find. Mention USMB (don't know if we get special pricing but hey, it never hurts!)

Way to go, Steve, and thanks for the update. I'd strongly suggest you take the old starter out and check the contacts anyway. (It's not that difficult--if I can do it I'm sure you can!) Those starters are pretty rugged and it's a waste to replace the whole thing for the sake of a couple of dollars worth of small parts. Anyway--more good luck to you. And keep us posted on your progress. Aloha.

What Cougar said for sure. But personally I'd be most suspicious of the contacts in the starter solenoid. Disconnect the wires to the starter then remove the entire unit (one bolt and one nut on a stud, both different sizes--bottom one is probably easiest to reach from underneath.) Then remove the cover plate from the back of the solenoid (phillips screws?) and pull the plunger out. Carry some light sandpaper along--you might be able to clean the L-shaped copper contacts and the circular ring on the plunger enough to keep it working for awhile. Good luck, Steve. Hope it's as simple as that.

It's also a good idea to change your oil filter midway through that longer interval. Synthetic has a lot of "cleaning" power and will probably loosen up a lot of crud. Congrats on your "new" '97!

Aw shoot, avk. You just took all the mystery and romance out of it. You should have told everyone you are a super genius mathematician! Anyway, thanks. You made my morning!

Now that's funny. When I first read this thread I was sure someone knew the number or would calculate it. Thanks, avk!

Yeah, and wax the car too. (Shiny cars always run better!)

An excellent suggestion. I did that to loosen an extremely tight rear diff plug once. Just make sure the angle of attack between the jack and the breaker bar is as close to 90 degrees as possible.

Will soon be pulling the shifter in my '95 Legacy to replace the bushings and am in need of a new boot--the black leather "sack" type. Those long, bushingless shifts have worn big holes in the original! New OEM one is about $40, not an unreasonable price I suppose. That's from Jason at Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn, WA. But got to thinking, has anyone tried any aftermarket boots (if they exist)? Any recommendations? Or anyone found decent boots in a pull-and-pay or salvage yard? Would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions, gang. Mahalo & Aloha.

Yup, really. What prompted it? Probably marketing--"new body styling, increased horsepower!" As far as how they did it, you'd have to get inside the inscrutable minds of FHI executives and engineers to find out. J/k! I'm sure someone here knows what they did.

Hmmm. Leads to the inevitable question, how many MtnBikerChks does it take to , , , !

Yes, it can be cleaned. On my '95 Legacy 2.2 I found it best to remove it from the engine for cleaning. Not too difficult a job. Try a search for IACV--lots of info here about it. Good luck.

Actually '95 and '96 models have 135hp.