Olnick

Amen, Brother.

Oh well, chicken soup tastes good!

You've got it right. Inspect the keyway and key to make sure there's no pre-existing wear. Have the e-brake on, chock the wheels, put the tranny in 5th gear and have someone push hard on the brake pedal while you torque it down. I used blue Loctite and tightened to about 140 lbs. It's only been a month, but seems to be absolutely solid. Good luck.

Can you pull the codes from the computer? A stored trouble code, if there are any, could point you in the right direction. Removing and cleaning the IACV is always a good idea in my mind. And, while I don't believe in throwing parts at a problem, there's a good chance the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor needs to be replaced--it's less than $30 if I remember. A bad temp sensor can really mess with the ECUs mind, causing some very poor running. Good luck!

Uh, Ed--I don't know how to say this politely or discretely, but you can, uh, re-use the condom. No matter what color it is!

Just like that erector set you has as a kid, eh cookie?

Hold on there a minute, bucko! IIRC the main seal comes out very easily if you remove the oil pump--which you need to do anyway to check the screws holding the pumps backplate and to replace the o-ring.

Hey, 91Loyale--got any pix of the Unbrighton you can post?

Bserk, I hope you have a good experience with your Outback and will stick with us. Informed input is always appreciated. Aloha.

Thanks, guys. The logic and the intent are crystal clear--but the writing!!! Last time I tried to position an area I couldn't get a grasp on it 'cause it kept slipping through my fingers!

Update, Question and Confession . . . ! UPDATE: I feel like I have a new engine! New timing belt, toothed idler, water pump/thermostat/hoses, crank and cam seals, 0-ring in left cam holder, resealed oil pump, plugs/wires, pcv valve and fresh coolant. Oddly enough, I wasn't too impressed the first day I drove it to work. Engine ran smoothly but didn't have anymore spunk than it did before. Now it's getting better each day (I think the ECU is relearning my driving since I had the battery out for a few days.) QUESTION: How poorly would the engine run if one cam was off by a single tooth? Would it be really obvious--rough-running--missing? Really would appreciate any informed input on this since my original question is still gnawing away at me! CONFESSION: Last Monday I was busy buttoning up the front end so I could kick back and enjoy the BCS football game (Yes, "It's great to be a Florida Gator!"), which was to kick off at 3:30 our time. Had the belt covers and crank pulley back on by noon and was looking for a large screwdriver to wedge the alternator into place. "Screwdriver" rang a bell in my head--then it hit me, I had forgotten to wedge the tensioner to the left and torque it down before pulling the pin!!! What a sinking feeling. So it was back to square one and start all over again. Positioning the belt (for the umpteenth time) I thought maybe I was sent back in for a reason. This time I lined up the marks and let the belt fall where it may--which means the left cam sprocket is one tooth counter-clockwise from its position in the original photograph. And as I said, it seems to be running beautifully. To quote Tex, "I dunno!" FINALLY: Mahalo nui loa to all you Keiki o ka Makali'i. I couldn't have done it without you. I wouldn't have even tried. Aloha.

Huh? Anyone able to translate that into English?

Aw, shucks!!! (Thanks, frag)

Yes it can be cleaned. Try a search--there were a few discussions about it in the past.

Update: It works! After much mental anguish and teeth gnashing (mine, not the timing belt's) I put the battery and the new sparkplugs in, pulled the pin on the tensioner and cranked it over. Smooooth! The belt and cam sprocket were positioned as shown in the photo in my first post. Mahalo nui loa, gang. You da' best! Nick

Thanks avk--correct, the right (passenger's side) belt mark is between two teeth, which allows for 44 full teeth between it and the crank mark. But the left (driver's side) belt mark is centered over the 41st tooth, which equates to 40.5 teeth from the crank. Since my left cam sprocket mark is not in a "valley" (where it logically should be) the belt will never line up as intended! Aloha, Nick

First of all, thank you everyone for your very astute observations. I really appreciate your input. Let me try to summarize: 1) Yes, I am using the correct marks, not the arrows or triangles! I have counted teeth (several times) and the belt marks are indeed right where they belong! Before I started I read all the articles referenced and more--many times! I'm a nut about researching jobs before I start so I can avoid problems . . . like the one I'm having right now!!! 2) It's a physical impossibility for my left cam sprocket mark and the printed stripe on the belt to line up. The cam sprocket mark is halfway between a tooth and a trough! (Is mine the only Subie in the world with this problem?!!) 3) frag, you are extremely perceptive. I've tried it both ways and, as you deduced, it's gonna' be half a tooth off one way or the other! But counting teeth does no good at this point because the belt and sprocket have to fit together tooth to trough! Therefore it'll be half a tooth off--but which way "off" is the correct way? 4) subyluvr2212, I tend to agree with you. The sprocket mark appears to be one tooth (roughly 5/16") too far clockwise. But if I correct that, the belt stripe will be way off. 5) One of OB99W's articles makes an interesting point. From Dan Marinucci, MOTOR, August 2001, page 16: "Don't worry about aligning each stripe with a timing mark. As long as all three sprocket marks are straight up at the same time, it doesn't matter where those darn belt stripes end up." This would suggest that I should line up the sprocket mark with the tb cover notch and not worry about the belt mark! 6) How much do I allow for the tensioner (should pull things more into alignment) and eventual stretching (toward out of alignment)? 7) Maybe Manarius has the best idea--fire it up and see how it runs! One question though, how perceptible is the "rough running" if it's off by one tooth? Guess I might soon know!!! Thanks again everyone. Your interest and input is much, much appreciated. I'll report back if/when I solve this. Aloha, Nick

Trying to hang the timing belt (Subaru OEM) on my '95 Legacy 2.2. Lined up the crank and both cam sprockets properly with their apppropriate marks. Slid the belt on and its marks line up perfectly with the crank sprocket and the right (passenger side) cam sprocket. But no way in heck will it line up with the left (driver side) sprocket mark. It appears that the left sprocket mark is midway between a "tooth" and a "valley!" Seems to me it should be dead center on a "valley" to line up with the printed mark on the belt, which is centered over the 41st tooth from the crank sprocket mark. Anyway I matched marks as closely as possible, took the slack out and this (the photo) is where it ended up--about 3/16" beyond the notch on the tb cover. The tensioner is still pinned and mounted in its right-most position. So what does anyone think. Is it right or is it off by a tooth?

Classic statement! Ain't it the truth . . . I have to put myself through "Windshield Wipers 101" every time I go to change them!

Thank you so much, avk. Your twisting suggestion ultimately got it. Now it's back on, clean as a whistle and with the new o-ring. Hi Ho, Hi Ho--off we go to the other seals, the oil pump and water pump! Aloha.

Thanks, avk--nice, thorough writeup. I'm in the middle of a timing belt job on my '95 Legacy and thought it would be a good idea to replace the left-front O-ring. But I can't figure out how that "bolted-on camshaft thrust support" comes out! Removed the rear plastic t-belt cover, the 3 bolts that appear to hold the support, the dipstick tube bracket and the cam sensor . . . but nothing will come loose. Do I need to (heaven forbid) pry on it or bang on it? Do I need to remove the valve cover to somehow loosen the support? Help!

Excellent information in the links OB99W provided. Also try looking in the "FAQ Sticky Compilation" on this forum's thread list page--there's an entry titled "2.2 Timing Belt Thread" that has some good links. General wisdom here is to use genuine Subaru OEM parts for belt, waterpump, thermostat, seals, etc. I just bought everything needed online for under $200. You might call Jason at 866-528-5282 (he's in the parts department at Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn, WA)--excellent service and great prices, just mention USMB. Good luck!

Thanks, cookie. Couldn't have said it better myself!!!

Bingo! I've got one! Thanks, Jay.

Thanks GL. I'm good up to 19mm, just gotta' go buy a 22mm for the crank pulley. Aloha.