Olnick

Look at "Cold Starting Problem" a few posts down on this page. Search under "Starter Contacts." It's a common problem and can be fixed quite inexpensively. It does require removing the starter from the car--but even that's not as difficult as it sounds. Good luck.

Congrats on the engine swap, Ed. I agree with Beezer--cleaning the IACV might help. Unfortunately you pretty much have to take it out to do a really thorough job. Did you replace the coolant temp sensor as Tunered suggested? Made a big difference in my '95 L awhile back. If you want to try the Seafoam trick I suggest you suck it into the intake/upper cylinder area through a vacuum tube to be most effective. Might want to try some fuel injector with Techron in the gas tank. I'm not big on gimmicky additives but the stuff worked well for me. At any rate, good luck on getting it smoothed out.

WOW! What a beautiful sight. Best of luck to you with the project, Mike. And do keep us up on your progress. Aloha.

UK WRX--have you checked for any stored codes in your ECU? A long shot, but sometimes a weak Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor can cause symptoms similar to yours. Good luck.

Before you throw money away on a new starter: It's most likely the copper contacts inside the starter's solenoid. Cheap parts and not too difficult to replace, although you do have to take the starter out to do it. Do a search--procedure has been discussed a lot.

I'm no MAF guru by any means but I've been in there a few times. Here are my thoughts: 1) Replace the air filter if you haven't already. 2) Remove the MAF and intake tubes--disconnect from the air filter box outlet and at the throttle body intake, disconnect the smaller air line that goes to the IACV and unplug the wiring connector--should lift right out. 3) Clean the vertical wires inside the MAF very gently. I just sprayed mine with carb cleaner and let drip-dry. Some people have mentioned wiping down with Qtips but I've never physically touched mine. 4) Clean the wiring plug too. 5) Inspect all the air tubes for holes. 6) Might want to clean the throttle body and idle air control valve (IACV) and replace the PCV too. There are good write-ups for these here on the board. 7) Button her up nice and tight. 8) If you find you do need to replace the MAF you might try to find one in a pull-and-pay--be a lot cheaper than a new one. 9) Keep asking questions here. Sheesh! Sounds like "9 Steps To Happiness!" Anyway, good luck.

Welcome to Subaru, pamonster! Subie gas gauges are a notorious weak point--lots of discussion on the board if you want to search. Might want to do what many of us do--reset your tripmeter at each fillup and, as you learn your car's parameters, you'll begin to know when you should start to worry! Good luck.

Maybe I will post some info if anybody is interested in digging around in their trannies Yes, please do! I doubt that I'll ever see the inside of a tranny--but knowledge is power and information is gold, so I'd appreciate anything you care to share.

Sleep well, AEROCOOK. It's NON-interference!

Hey Heikki--how come your Legacy has a 3 pointed star on the hood?

Probably just the copper contacts that are actuated by the solenoid. Relatively easy fix and very inexpensive. Do a search--it's been discussed quite a bit here.

Just to verify, Subaru went to OBDII in MY95.

Makali'i!

You might want to reconsider on that one, edrach. My '95 L did the same and a new temp sensor made a tremendous difference in running & idling. The code is probably there for a reason!

Nice compilation of your research, Dweebus. But I don't recall anyone "killing" their IACV.

Welcome, centrino. I think you should check the ECU for stored codes before you do anything else, You'll need to use an OBDII scanner or go to a shop that has one. Otherwise you might be spending a lot of money on parts that you may not even need. And don't worry about your English--you're doing just as well as the rest of us! Good luck.

No, no, no, paulbellefeuille--you had it right (correct) to begin with!!! Right (okay)? Gads, this language of ours can be confusing though!

A note: For the sake of clarity in communications, directions in a vehicle are generally given from the operator's driiving position--thus the passenger side is the right side of the car. Sorry, not intended to be smarta$$, just to clarify.

Last time I had an elusive belt squeal, turned out that the power steering pump had gone south on me. Any jekiness or notchiness in your steering?

Way to go, Anthony. Good choice--and smart move to put the tach in. And no, you're not a "hippie," just an intelligent person who's smart enough to buy a Subie!!! Funny, as I read your post I'm watching Columbia on TV, the Gamecock-Alabama game. I'm an old Gator so I have to see how our boy Spurrier is doing (doing pretty well so far!) Good luck with the new ride.

Nice looking wagon, rottenhead. You're right--it would look good with 5-spoke alloys. Just be aware that it's not the "virtually indestructible 2.2" of old. They tinkered with the engine in '97 and it became an interference design, so keep an eye on the timing belt schedule.

O2 sensors often weaken or fail around 100k. Yes, they are easier to remove when hot. When I did the 4-wire mod I got a Walker universal from oxygensensors.com, it was a Saturn sensor. Came with solder loaded crimping tubes and heat-shrink tubing. Had pretty thorough instruction sheet. Do a search--topic was covered in great depth a while back, including the 4-wire sensor model number. Good luck.

Thanks again for the reply, avk. I guess my shock at 85% ethanol is because I've heard such negative comments about fuel with 10% ethanol--but of course that would be in a "normal" engine tuned for gasoline. If I may ask, what is your van? And what "flex fuel" is available where you are?

Egads--85% ethanol! Unbelievable! Thanks for the info, avk. Any idea what kind of design changes in the engine--compression higher? Timing? Valve design? Fuel delivery? Spark plugs?