Olnick

Thanks Gnuman. It's a '95 but I would venture a guess that they're all the same.

Hmmm, total cost $.01. Guess you don't need my $.02 then!

The 3 plastic strips that protect the roof when you're using the roof rack--each strip is secured with 3 screws-- just noticed a rust problem at the middle screw of the center strip. Anyone ever removed them? Any ideas what the screws bite into--sheet metal or crossmember or some kind of backing block? Any help appreciated. I'm just hoping I don't have to remove the headliner to remount the strips. Thanks.

Thanks, mikem, for putting my mind a little bit at ease. After all is said and done, guess they're no smarter than we are!

Am very happy for you, mikem. Glad you stuck with it and got a satisfactory deal. Unfortunately item 5 (sign the nondisclosure form) leaves me with a bad taste in my mouth. It's probably just the "corporate way," and maybe I'm just paranoid. But I hear Subaru screaming "we don't want anybody to know about this problem . . . so you better not tell." Everyone on this board bends over backward to share, to help each other--but the company that makes our cars won't share. Kinda' sad.

I'd say you did all right. You can kick yourself around the room all night if you want, but when dawn is breaking get yourself a cup of coffee, grab a lawn chair and go sit out front so you can soak in your great new ride! All the best!

Great score, Bubs. If she's as good mechanically as she appears to be cosmetically you got yourselves a fine vehicle. And I happen to believe the early 2.2s are the best engines Subaru ever made. Nice pictures too! Take good care of her. Aloha.

Good on ya' Tobers. I love the roof dent analogy. Stick to your guns--and keep us posted.

Ain't that life? When you get a handle on one problem it just makes room for another one to pop up! Your best bet would be to pull the codes to see why the CEL is coming on. I suppose they charge a Swedish arm-and-a-leg to hook up an OBDll scanner--might even be worth investing in one. But until you find out what's lurking in the ECU's warped little mind, you're just flailing in the dark! Or, as you suggested, you could go to a Subaru dealer and give him all your money. At any rate, best of luck to you.

Thank you friends, am passing the info on. Search didn't reveal much about sedan latch mechanisms--anyone know if they're the same as wagon hatchs? Any hints/tricks appreciated. Aloha.

Trunk lid is stuck shut on my daughter's '92 Legacy sedan. Neither the key nor the lever by the driver's seat will release it. Any suggestions? Is the rear seat back removable from inside the car? If it is, is there anything she could reach to release the latch from inside? Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

Yes. Don't drool . . . at least not in front of the seller.

The system I read, and used, was to suck a third of a can into the top end through a vacuum hose, wait 5 or 10 minutes then drive it out (mucho smoke!) Then pour a third of a can into the fuel tank. Worked for me (I think.)

That's a great line, Smith!!!

Still sounds like a major (read expensive) repair job "just to be on the safe side." I'd go to that repair shop and ask for their input on the vehicle--it's a legitimate thing to do. And I'd still suggest having it checked out by an independent mechanic . . . you might sleep better!!! Good luck with a difficult decision.

Frankly, sounds is little odd to me--a $1500 to $2000 head gasket job as preventative maintenance. Either he is extremely thorough, has money to burn or may not be sharing the whole story. At any rate, the car has a new HG--but I would ask him for proof. Replacing the water pump at that mileage is good preventative maintenance, but why didn't he have the timing belt replaced and the oil pump checked at the same time? Seems like a no-brainer. Suggest you test drive and check for the infamous torque bind since it's an automatic. Price looks okay for your area by Kelley Blue Book, $1000 too high by Edmunds. Might be a wise investment to have it checked out by an independent mechanic before jumping in. Then if it seems okay offer substantially less than asking price. Good luck.

Just to clarify--by "pad-slapping" you mean . . . ?

Equal? Probably not. But only you can make the decision.

I am also 6'2" and have never had an issue with leg room. Have always considered my Legacy to be quite roomy and comfortable. Good luck with the decision.

Good deal? I think so, for several reasons--1) excellent price, 2) bought from a co-worker whom, I assume, you trust and 3) hey, it's a '96 Subie! Minor oil leak is no big thing. Would suggest you have the timing belt replaced and, while the front end is opened up, replace the crank & cam seals, have the oil pump re-sealed and even replace the water pump. You'd probably be good for another 100k miles. The clutch is most likely okay. Just pay attention to it for the next few months and see what you think. Car sounds like it's be worth a new clutch--is it's even necessary. Hood latch should be no big thing--WD40, lubrication, maybe adjustment, maybe new cable. Worth it. Overall sounds like a good deal. Welcome to the board, you'll find a lot of helpful souls here. And best of luck!

Right under the throttle body, can be seen from the passenger's side. Do a search here on the forum--there's lots of info.

JT95--how many miles on the car? Any idea if the O2 was ever changed? I've heard they can get weak after time without throwing a code. Changed mine at about 105k as prevention.

Oh no, Buddythedog, don't jettison the parrot. That would be cruel. Just have it fly (inside the cabin of course) when you start up a heavy grade. That should improve your mpg. Good luck, have a great trip.

Update: Subaru solved the problem for me. Called a dealership this morning (mainly to see how much they'd ask for a simple little plastic connector!), guy took the information, called me back after awhile to tell me that Subaru doesn't sell the connector separately. It is considered part of the wiring harness! The guy seemed as shocked as I was. What . . . I'm gonna' rewire my whole car for one crummy little connector?!! Anyway, he aimed me at a parts store where the people are capable of a little more than just riffling through catalogs. Found a generic with pigtails and a stronger build than the original--for $3.40! Shoot, the package of heat-shrink tubing cost me more than that. So now I can't wait for a day off to grab my soldering iron and go play. Thanks everyone for your help and guidance. Aloha.

Wow! Now that's heavy duty wiring, Heikki. Is that connector aftermarket or did you fab it yourself? Does it bother you that it's not enclosed in a rubber boot like the OEM part (not that that helped me!)? Anyway, thanks much for the input--and great picture.