Olnick

Can you give a brief explanation of what this tool does?

Aw, shucks! My favorite subject and Legacy777 beat me to it! Really, FreeLegacy, you'll be amazed at how easy the starter fix is. Two electrical connections and two bolts--one on top and one below--and the starter lifts right out, from the top no less. Open up the back plate of the solenoid--three screws holding a triangular shaped backing plate IIRC--pull out the solenoid shaft and you'll see the two L-shaped copper contacts that Legacy777 mentioned. They'll probably be pitted and worn. Replace them, put it back together, slap it back in the car and you're ready to go. Good luck to you. Well, sounds like you don't really need luck--you got the car at the right price and you found this board (most helpful people you'll ever meet) so you're well on your way!!! By the way, '95 was a great year for the Legacy!

Betcha' it's nothing more than worn contacts inside the starter. It's a common problem. Just a coupla' bucks to replace--compare that to the cost of a new or rebuilt unit! Not too hard to do either. Search here on the board as lmdew suggests. And by all means do what blackbart says and check/clean all your electrical connections.

Another thought based on KStretch55's approach--with the engine idling, spray "starter fluid" around the vacuum hose connections. Then if there's a leak you should hear a slight revving. Never done it but it sounds like a neat trick! And I tend to agree, the rattling is probably loose heat shield/shrouding--a common problem. Do a search here on the board as it's been discussed recently. Good luck!

Could your wee furry friends have chomped on some of the vacuum lines? Might be worth a really close inspection of the rubber tubing and connections.

Hey, Rizzo--did you also tell him where to go to do it?!!

JohnnyB--just what bfg9k said. I disassembled the intake ducting, removed the MAF box and sprayed the wires (used brake cleaner, hope that was okay!). I'm just very leery of touching those fine wires with anything, even a Q-tip. bfg9k--I don't recall losing any coolant when I replaced the temperature sensor, but I might have. If you do lose some, use Setright's "front-end-uphill" technique and carefully burp the upper hose as you top up. Brings up a question I've always had--why didn't Subaru provide a bleed valve at the hgih point of the cooling system to allow the release of trapped air? Might have even saved a few head gaskets along the way!

Seafoam is an excellent idea, but do it through a vacuum line not the TB. Also might try cleaning your MAF sensor (gently, gently!), IACV and maybe even the TPS. A new Engine Temperature Sensor--the one for the ECU not the guage--made a big difference in running for me. Good luck.

JohnVT--at 124k changing the front O2 sensor is probably a good idea. It's really not that difficult. Again, search here on the board--lots of good info. Check out oxygensensors.com for decent prices, and if you don't mind a bit of splicing/soldering you can buy a universal model and save even more. Go for it. And good luck!

NorthLight--hope you realize that Subaru ecms don't do the "flashing light" trick. From '95 on you need an OBDII scanner to pull the codes. Bummer, yeah? Anyway, good luck.

Easy answer. It's the sound of your pistons and small pieces of engine flying by you! Sorry Langdon, couldn't resist that one. Check your rpm numbers--I think you've got one too many zeros in there! Seriously, since the sound happens in such a specific range it could be as simple as some kind of harmonic or resonance causing a heat shield on your exhaust to vibrate. Can you somehow identify the location of the buzz--maybe have someone hold the rpms steady while you listen around the car? If the car seems to run smoothly it's probably not life threatening. Good luck.

Valve cover gaskets was my first thought too. If that's true you've saved yourself a lot of heartbreak . . . and money!

Good idea, ferret. I'd like to have that available. Moderators?

Yeah, just another beautiful day in paradise! But then Vermont is a gorgeous place too. Aloha!

It's usually called IACV. Do a search under IACV or idle air control valve--there's a lot of good info. Good luck.

Ain't life grand? Sometimes just the simplest thing can make your day! Wow. Thanks, Midwst--for such an elegantly simple and sincere response. It made MY day!

Subaru went to OBDII with the '95 EJ22s.

I'm no expert but it sounds like a classic case of the oil pump's back plate loosening. Search the board--there's been a fair amount of discussion of this. Whoever did your timing belt last year should have checked the oil pump sealing (new o-ring and "loktiting" the screws) because--guess what--you gotta' remove the timing belt to get to it! Sorry. Good luck.

Bravo, NorthWet. Very elegantly put. Blitz and Scottbaru: WOW! I am absolutely blown away by the level of theoretical thinking in your Qs and As. Fascinating discussion. The knowledge available on this board is astounding. Thanks all.

I think the product you're talking about is called POR-15. I've never used it but if I remember correctly it's not a rust remover, it's a rust "convertor." Does it work? Who knows? Anybody here ever used it?

Does anyone know if there is a physical difference between 60k and 105k timing belts? Materials? Composition? Design? Or is the difference simply because California demanded the longer interval and maybe Subaru was too conservative to begin with?

BigMattyD: Sweet photo of engine! (Izzat what they look like inside?)

Dang, those early Legacies look good with the right wheels!

95legacy--get used to resetting your trip meter every fill up! A totally inaccurate gas guage is the only flaw in my otherwise "perfect" '95 Legacy. After years of frustration I pulled the senders, cleaned them and reinstalled. A bit better, but nowhere near accurate.