Olnick

SevenSisters: Can't really answer that. It would seem to suggest some amount of "adjustability." I just tried to replace it as close as possible to previous placement.

One more thought, Frag. Once you have the entire unit out, then remove the grey actuator cap (the two vertical machine screws)--that way you can turn the shaft while you spray for a more thorough cleaning. Nice to see your response, hklaine. Did you notice a difference in running after the cleaning? Aloha all, good luck.

Frag--I don't think you can give the IAC a thorough cleaning unless you take it out. Really isn't all that difficult to remove (shoot, if I can do it anyone can!) One rubber air hose, two small coolant hoses and three small bolts, that's all. Then you can hold it out, spray it generously and watch the gunk flow out. Check out my suggestions to hklaine back on 3/26. And if you have any questions please feel free to ask. Aloha.

Hey, you made a good looking vehicle there. Nice work photo-shopping!

Thanks Frag and Cookie, I think I get the drift!

Frag--I like your suggestion of the bent screwdriver. Seems like the leverage gained would be perfect for seal removal. But am a little confused when you say " . . . till the part of the blade near the handle rested on the block . . ." What block? Engine block? Part of the blade near the handle? Could you clarify a little. If I screw up my courage real tight I may stumble into this job this summer! Thanx.

Lemanu--glad we could be of help!!! Seriously, happy you found the problem and solved it. Aloha.

Lisa--good question and NOT trivial at all. I have no idea of what's standard on newer Subarus but I'm sure someone here will give you the answer. I like your thinking. Knowledge is power--more power to you, gal!

According to my Actron code reader's manual P1xxx is a "Manufacturer Specific" code related to the powertrain. Anyone have a list of these?

What a fascinating thread. And where else would you find it but on USMB, a community of marque lovers who care and think and share? So here's my opinion: "Peaking," like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. I happen to believe that Subaru peaked in 1995-96 with the bullet-proof non-interference 2.2. I'm lucky to own one and hope to keep it going for a long, long time. To SOA, however, the peak is most likely somewhere in the future--when they hopefully create an aura around the brand as have BMW or Toyota/Lexus. But at what cost? This is where morals and ethics enter. They are different for individuals and corporations. As a professional, I believe strongly in honesty, integrity and service--I will always go beyond "what is expected" to make sure a client is taken care of. Reputation is just as important as the dollars. Corporations (e.g., SOA and FHI) on the other hand look at revenues, margins and shareholder profits. They hope to create and maintain a decent reputation as they go after their main goal, the dollars. And let's face reality--I'm sure they appreciate our love and loyalty (if they even know we exist!) but we are a mere speck in the gigantic pool of potential customers. Shoot, Joe Average cares more about the color of his new car and the image he projects on the highway in the morning than about the wonderful feel of a well-balanced 4 cylinder boxer engine or the ease of access to the oil filter. Joe just drops his car off at the dealership when something needs to be "fixed!" Which leads to my greatest disappointment with Subaru and SOA--they seem to lack the cojones to own up to certain problems or design failures. It appears they'd rather stick their head in the sand and say "We don't know of any problems with 2.5 liter headgaskets!" What does it all mean? Friends who know I'm a "Subie-junky" have asked my advice on possible purchases and I've told them, with no malice, that personally I wouldn't consider a post-1996 model. If and when I have to look for a newer car I don't know what I'll do. After 20 years of Subaru loyalty that'll be a hard decision. But I'm just one little speck in that big pool Subaru is swimming in.

Good idea, hklaine. I cleaned the IAC on our Maxima a year ago, then on my '95 Legacy L just recently. In both cases I was shocked at how gunky they get inside (where does it come from?) Anyway--look into the engine bay from the passenger side fender. The IAC is right below the throttle body, it sits at a 45 degree angle, sorta' facing the air filter box. Has a grey plastic electrical actuator on top. You'll have to remove the large air intake tube that feeds the throttle body to get a clear shot at it. Then remove the air feed hose and the two small coolant hoses attached to the IAC. Three bolts hold it to the intake manifold--two are obvious and one is hidden under the lower right side (you'll need a universal joint and a short extender to reach it.) When you lift the IAC out be careful, here's a gasket between it and the mounting surface--mine was in good shape so I re-used it. I then removed the grey plastic actuator (two philips screws if I remember correctly) so I could turn the valve by hand. The valve itself is a slotted cylinder that turns on a vertical axis--it turned but felt a bit sticky. Then came the thrill. I sprayed it generously with carburetor cleaner (used brake cleaner too--don't know which is better!) and watched the black gunk flow out. Suddenly the valve broke loose, turned smoothly and freely with very little effort. I assumed this was how it should be, so I was quite pleased! Put it all back together and the car's been running great. Don't know how much is due to the IAC since I cleaned/replaced other things at the same time. However, I do know that the "butt dyno" is making some very positive readings. Good luck!

Thanks for the information, Handtool. I'm ready to do the same thing if I can ever get my old sensor out! Did you solder the leads or use the crimp connectors that Walker provides? Where did you connect the ground?

Just a point of common sense to the above instructions regarding the rear differential: Remove the TOP plug first. Think about it--what if you removed the bottom plug, drained all the oil out and then couldn't loosen the top plug? You'd be up a creek!

Josh--a while back (Nov. 03) you mentioned the benefits of replacing your 3-wire O2 sensor with a 4-wire grounded one. I like that idea. I have a '95 Legacy L N/A, 5MT. Do you recall what the model # was for the generic 4-wire from oxygensensors.com? Thanx!

SilverSubie--do a search here on the board. Edrach (the axle guru!) did an excellent writeup of the procedure a while back. Good luck!

blitz--I'm no expert, just got mine last week. Bought the CP9135 on the advice of a mechanic friend of mine (Dan Maurin at ROOpair Specialties in Tacoma). Seems to work great, very easy to use too. DTCs came up immediately and were totally consistent with the symptoms. You can download the operating manual from Actron's website if you want to read about it before buying. Bought mine off ebay for about half the store price! Good luck!

It's been a couple of months now since you completed your 5MT swap. I'd be interested in hearing your reactions and personal observations after driving it for a while. Must have felt a bit odd, at least for the first few days, to climb in a familiar car but with a different driving mode, right?

It's most likely the contacts--they're the weakest link in an otherwise very rugged starter. If possible remove your starter, take out the contacts and carry them with you when you go shopping for replacements. There are 2 or 3 different configurations and if you're as lucky as I am, you'll get the wrong ones the first two times! Good luck.

Thanks, Dave. Nice write-up--very well organized and very thoughtful of you to do. I'm building up my courage to tackle the timing belt/oil seal/water pump and this has really helped. USMB folk are the best!

Just gotta' throw my $.02 in. Switched my '95 Legacy over to synthetic more than a year ago and I love it. Most impressed when I drain the crankcase. The old dino juice used to pour out like dirty water--but the used synthetic flows out with the same "body" and viscosity as when it was put in. And the engine seems to run smoother, although that could be my butt-dyno just trying to please me.

So Josh . . . what are you swapping and why?

I found the best price at a place called Makco Distributing, Inc. Look under bulkparts.com. Was around $30. Shipping was fast. Got it for my wife's Nissan Maxima but haven't installed it yet--I refuse to "tie" it to the car's radiator. Am going to fabricate a support so it is freestanding in front of the rad. By the way, there are good arguments for plumbing the auxiliary cooler in series after the car's radiator rather than bypassing it.

Ooops! Sorry Syphon. Didn't mean to hijack your thread. Was hoping that we'd both benefit from any responses. Then I re-read what I wrote and it sure was "I-me-my!" Please forgive.

For years I've heard that terrible squeal from other cars--now it's happened to me ('95 Legacy L Wagon, MT, 100k miles)! Changed p/s drive belt 4 or 5 months ago. Now I have the squeal for 5 to 10 seconds on startup and then on-and-off for the first few minutes of driving. Changed p/s fluid. Took belt off and checked the pully and shaft--turns smoothly, no odd noises. But when my son started the car and cranked the steering full to one side and then the other, we heard the "juddering" sound and I noticed rapid little stop-and-go hesitations in the p/s pump pully. That scared me! What does it mean? Does the sqeal come from the belt or the pump? Do I need a new pump? Could it be gunk in the lines? Is it--heaven forbid--a problem in the rack & pinion? Appreciate any insights, gang.