Olnick

Here's an interesting take on The Club: http://freakonomics.com/2010/06/08/what-car-thieves-think-of-the-club/ So hard-core, professional car thieves would just laugh at The Club. It wouldn't stop them if they wanted the car bad enough. But I have a feeling that many (most?) thefts are by dumb-azz kids who just want to joy-ride and grab whatever is loose or shiny! So I agree with chrisgpz--it could have a strong "visual deterrent" component.

@ chrisgpz: Thanks chris. I like your idea of The Club as a visual deterrent. Do you--or anyone else here--know of how effective it is as a physical deterrent? Is it enough of a bother to cause a thief to just "move on?" Or do they just laugh at it?!! @ brus brother: Great idea, brus. I'm going to see what I can learn about Prey. And thanks everyone--really appreciate your concern and suggestions. That's USMB . . . Family!

That's an idea, Snatched! Real shame is that, by-and-large, Seattle/PNW folks are lovely people. But guess it just takes a couple of rotten apples!

Thanks Fairtax--I guess maybe you're right! But I doubt the cops go out actively searching for stolen cars. Just have to hope--per grimace's experience--that someone in a neighborhood reports it as a "suspicious vehicle"--then police can cross-check and identify it. (Fingers crossed!)

Yeah, it's upsetting--that makes 4 stolen Subies mentioned here on USMB in the last year. All in Seattle's north side! Thanks for the kind offer, Larry. Will keep you posted.

Thanks grimace--good information to know. Hope we're as lucky!

Thanks Chris.

My son, Eric's RED '96 OUTBACK was taken from his apartment building parking lot--in the Fremont area near 39th and Greenwood--between Friday 10/3 and Monday 10/6--while Eric was in Denver for a friend's wedding. License # APT-6422. VIN starts with "4S3" and ends with "107". Color is "mica ruby pearl," and it has an obvious dent top center of the hood. Has 6-spoke Subaru alloy wheels. Manual tranny EJ22. If you spot it please call Seattle Police. Or call Eric (206 6-one-7 8-one-88) or me, Nick (808 2-eight-6 5-four-78). Or post here. Really appreciate any help, gang. Mahalo nui loa. UPDATE: Car was found Thursday 10/16 and seems to be in good condition!

Here's the drill as I remember it! (The numbers reference the Opposed Forces drawing): 1) Inside the car, open up the center console and get the boot off the shifter. Near the bottom of the shift lever shaft (#9) is a yoke connecting it to the shift rod (#7) You'll need to access that later. For now, put the tranny in 5th gear and leave it. 2) Then get under the car and unbolt the bracket (#20) that positions the stay rod (#23)--two bolts. Disconnect the little spring (#22). 3) Now for the fun! Take a 3/16" drift punch and mount it in a 3/8" drive socket extension--I think mine was 6" long. Use that to drive out the smaller (inner) roll pin. 4) Next you have to drive out the larger roll pin. This is the tough one! I slid a 9/32" socket, a couple of old nuts and a couple of washers onto the punch so that about 1/4" of the punch tip stuck out--then gaffer taped it all together. (That was a tip from another member--if I remember, it kept the punch from going too far in when it slipped off the edge of the roll pin . . . and it will slip off!) Helpful hint: You need a lot of force to drive out that larger roll pin--but it's difficult to get a "straight-on" shot at it. So I had my son sit in the car and put constant pressure on the shift lever, forward (toward the front of the car) and outward (toward the passenger side.) That worked--much better angle. Took about 10 minutes to get the pin out. 5) Now separate the "boss joint" from the tranny "stub-out rod." I was lucky here--my son worked the shift lever a bit and the joint slid right off by itself! But if they are seized together it may take some hammering and wedging and more penetrating oil. 6) Back inside the car, separate the shift rod from the shift lever--there are bushings in the connection that may or may not need to be replaced (mine looked like new and didn't need to be replaced.) Now you can take the shift rod out of the car (if I remember correctly!) 7) Disassemble the "boss joint," clean 'em up, install new bushings and put 'em back together. 8) Now put your car back together--"boss joint" to tranny "stub-out," drive roll pins in, re-connect shift rod to shift lever, re-attach stay rod bracket and don't forget the little spring! And hopefully your shifting is smooth as butter--mine sure was. Good luck, hope all goes well for you.

"How long did it take?" There's no standard. Depends on the condition of your car's underside, your skill level and your tolerance for frustration!!! "Should have done it that way moments?" None in particular--it's pretty straightforward. But it does demand perseverance & desire! "Parts?" The only parts you really need are the bushings that go in the "boss joint." That's where the sloppiness is. Subaru OEM is your only option for these (to the best of my knowledge there are no "improved" aftermarket ones available.) The other bushings I mentioned up top are kind of "frosting on the cake"--not really necessary. Here's a link to an Opposed Forces drawing that may help you: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_41/manipulation/manual_gear_shift_system/illustration_1/ The "boss joint" is shown in the upper left of the drawing. The bushings are the circled #6s and #7s. My suggestion at this point is to crawl under your car and survey/inspect the various parts--get familiar with them "up close and personal!" Is the little spring (#22) there? And while you're under there, spray/soak the roll pins (#1) and the connection between the "boss joint" (#2) and the transmission "stub-out rod" that it fits on. Use a good penetrant--Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster. I'll try to put together a listing of the procedure in my next post.

(For those of you who--like me--have no idea what RPO means, it's "Regular Production Option!")

+10 for you OLsubedrivr: "Good Use of In-Laws!"

Way to go, 94 subie! If you have a Haynes manual there's an excellent shift linkage exploded view drawing (page 7A-2). It gives a good overview of all the bits & pieces! Might want to check your valve cover gaskets too--another common source of oil leaks. Good luck!

Welcome aboard, Jeff. You're right--good folks here! Start a thread in the New Gen forum and tell us about your car and its problems.

"You went off roading without me?!?" Great line!!!

Wow, what a surprise to see my old thread brought back! Not sure anyone has a comprehensive list of what linkage joints were used in what models or years. But I suspect that your '94 and my '95 are probably the same. I think your best bet is to disassemble your existing joint and put new bushings in it. You might try calling Jason, Parts Manager at Mike Scarff, 866-528-5282, and ask if he knows what's needed for a '94. And if you do attempt the job, post any questions here--I'll do my best to remember the process! By the way, seven years later and my shifter is still pretty doggone smooth!

So heartless--we know how you chose your entry point (to the ditch!) But how did you choose your exit--did you see a high spot, or just build up speed and "chance 'um?"

Congrats! Welcome to the "'95-Legacy-AWD-and-5spdMT-Club!" Great driving car.

Wow, what a story heartless! Proud of your calm, logical approach to getting out of trouble. And of course very happy that you and the wagon are okay!

Also check out The Import Experts and Mizumo Auto. I've gotten good product, good service and good price from both.

try a new ects--engine coolant temperature sensor.

Welcome to the USMB. What Subaru do you have? Suggest you ask your question in the appropriate technical forum.

What Tex said! What your mechanic did is all well and good. But it doesn't prove anything. You need to measure the circumferences of all 4 tires.

I'm no expert on "newer" engines but try a search here on the board--oil around the plugs has been talked about for sure. May be simply needs new valve cover & plug hole gaskets. Start a new thread and ask if anyone has any recommendations on a good indy Subaru shop where the car is. Good luck.

No "extreme fail rate"--just an extremely wise move if you're not sure of the history. Anyone have any records on the car, receipts for parts purchased or work done? Would be wise to find an independent Subie mechanic in Minnesota to inspect it before setting out across country. Good luck--sounds like a great deal!