Olnick

If you decide you need a new radiator check prices at K. Ifuku Radiator--Waiakamilo Road, just makai of King St., Ewa side. They've been quite reasonable when I needed radiators. The mainland "Radiator Barn" type places will probably charge an arm and a leg to ship out here. Good luck!

Heartless--if you've already swapped out the old starter, you've already done 90% of the work! Do what Tex & Fairtax suggest. Just open up the back of the solenoid housing, pull the plunger and check the contacts. You can get reasonably priced contacts online or often at a local auto-electric shop. Good luck!

You're welcome, sir! Unfortunately there's no such thing as "time for new head gaskets." They decide when they want to be changed--and they'll let you know in the most unpleasant ways!!! Hopefully others with more knowledge will chime in here (I never went beyond the good ol' EJ22.) All the very best with the car.

Welcome back, Jack! Hey, that car looks nice. Yes, it would be a 2.5. I think heated seats are possible--try a "search," I'm sure it's been talked about. At 99k it's due for a timing belt soon--a few hundred dollars in parts. Price sounds good, but you might want to factor in the timing belt, tune-up etc. Good luck!

Sorry to hear that, 1-3-2-4. Are you okay? Got the other guy's insurance info? Good luck--hope you at least get a fair settlement.

Welcome to USMB! What is your car? Post in the appropriate forum.

Hey, Miles--if you gotta' go in for the key anyway might as well open it up and find out. You'll sleep better if you do! I've checked out 3 EJ22 oil pumps over the years--two were just fine but one had several loose screws. Sure glad I found that one.

And Aloha to you, East Tennessee! Funny, I saw your thread title for nearly a week before I noticed the "incongruity" of it. My wife is from a small town just outside Knoxville--still have a lot of family in the area--but we've lived in Hawai'i for nearly 50 years. So welcome to the USMB, a place brimming with Pono.

What a dream!!!

Welcome to the USMB. You found a great site--but you're in the wrong place! Please start a new thread in the "New Generation Forum" and post your questions there. Thanks.

Nice write-up and very good pix. This should be really helpful to others down the road. Thanks!

Welcome to the USMB--and welcome to Subaru! Wow, she looks like a brand new car. Enjoy the ride!

By all means reseal the 2.2's oil pump while you're in there--backing plate screws sometimes loosen. Might want to replace cam and crank seals too, and the cam o-ring in the driver's side front.

Can you identify what the "liquid" or "fluid" is?

One correction to MilesFox's maintenance write-up: Tires must be within 1/4 inch circumference of each other--not diameter!

Welcome to the USMB, vulture! I doubt that your knock sensor and the no-start situation are related. Make sure your battery posts and the cable clamps are clean--and that the cables aren't corroded at the clamp connections. If they're okay then check the copper contacts inside the starter solenoid. They often pit and wear, keeping power from getting to the starter motor. Installing new contacts is a relatively cheap and easy fix. Good luck!

Yes, welcome! What do you drive?

Welcome to the USMB, Mike. Lots of good, knowledgable folks here who are happy to offer help. Lots of great info from the past, too--give the search function a try. Post in the "New Gen" forum with specific questions. Again, welcome--and good luck with your Forester.

1. I've always been able to break the cam sprockets loose with the old belt in place and tranny in 5th gear. 2. For the oil pump, check the phillips head screws on the back of the circular backing plate--if any are loose loctite them. For the mating surface to the engine block install a new o-ring and a neat, even bead of anaerobic or Ultra-grey sealant. Don't overdo the sealant--you don't want bits of RTV breaking off and getting in the oil. Haynes manual has a drawing of the bead pattern. Good luck.

That's exciting that TurnInConcepts has bushings for the "boss joint." They didn't offer them back when I did mine. And no one has ever been happy with the longevity of the Subaru OEM bushings! No idea why their boss joint unit is only for "springless" models. You might try contacting them and asking. I dealt with Clint, one of the owners of TiC and a Subaru guy himself--really nice guy. If they sell just the bushings I think it'd be a good investment. As for removing just the bolt holding the joint--good luck! As I remember there's no way to get a wrench up in there. I wish you success and if you accomplish it, by all means let us know how! Good luck!

Yeah, all those numbers get tricky! Back in the '90s standard offset was 55mm. Then around MY 2000 they introduced 48mm. The difference is about 1/4". But the Cars101 page doesn't make it clear. You could pull one of your stock wheels and check--the offset might be stamped on the inside of the rim. I have a gut feeling you're gonna' be just fine. But the only way to know for sure is to swap on the "new" wheels and test them. Good question on the nuts. Scope out a nearby Pull n/ Pay yard just in case! Good luck--hope it all goes well for you. (Then post some pix for us!)

And . . . everything you'd ever want to know about Subaru wheel/tire specs (courtesy Joe Spitz, Cars101)!!! http://www.cars101.com/subaru/tiresandwheels.html#outback

This site might help you compare sizes: http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp Just enter your present specs in the top left and the "new" size in upper right. Then you can get an approximate analysis in the lower right. I think the rim size is 6.5 and offset 48. (Someone please correct me if I'm wrong!) Good luck.

Just to clarify--are you talking about 215/60 R16s or 225/60 R16s?

Good going! If the seller will let you, try a "test fit" before you purchase. Put at least two on the car (one front & one rear) and inspect the clearances. Even drive the car a few yards, go lock-to-lock with the steering, both left & right. Good luck!