Olnick

For plugs all you need is the most basic copper--NGK BKR6E-11, I believe. Maybe $2 each. For wires, get Subaru OEM. Check prices at a dealer or online. $100 for a set sounds ridiculous to me--it's been a few years, but the last set I bought was around $35.

Just to re-emphasize what was said earlier--each drain-and-fill only removes about 50% of the "old" fluid in your tranny. You have to do it at least 3 times (driving or idling each time so the fluid circulates and mixes) in order to get reasonably fresh fluid in there. Seems a bit wasteful but if it solves your problem it's definitely the cheapest fix. Super-Tech is fine. I've used it for years in various Nissan and Toyota AT cars my wife has had--no problems. Good luck and do keep us up on your progress!

Welcome aboard, Retro! Here's to many happy miles in your wonderful Subie wagon. As to your transmission questions, browse through the "New Gen" forum--post your questions there--or try a "search" here on USMB. Good luck!

Sorry mw, but I can't resist answering this one. There is no average! And if there were, it would be meaningless. Everything comes down to how well a vehicle has been maintained and cared for. But excellent idea, getting your daughter a Subaru! Ten years ago we got our daughter a '92 Legacy and later it was passed on to our son. We kept it in great mechanical condition. Safe, dependable, nice handling car--engine ran like new and tranny (manual) was smooth as butter. Fantastic car. (Still would be if an idiot Honda hadn't veered across the centerline and totaled it.) If you find a car you like check it over as thoroughly as you can--test drive it, try every gear--is it smooth, any odd noises? Test it for torque bind. Check fluids, look for leaks. Talk to the seller, ask about history, repairs. Even take it to an independent mechanic and pay for an inspection. Subarus are pretty well built cars. Good luck. Hope you find "the right car" for your girl!

The click could be simply because of worn copper contacts in the starter's solenoid, a fairly common problem on older Subarus. It's a cheap and fairly easy fix. If the timing belt is okay check to make sure the timing marks on the cams still line up properly. Good luck.

You're welcome, tedbull. What I said may be a bit confusing, so let me try again! The Aisin "coated metal" gasket is like the OEM gasket. Cheap cardboard gaskets that come with some other brands should definitely be replaced with a Subaru OEM one.

List looks good to me. But (1) I don't think you need new valve cover bolts--just the gaskets & grommets. And (2) the Aisin water pump gasket is "coated metal" (not cardboard!) like the OEM product. Good luck.

Thanks Larry--interesting suggestion! Yep, it's Eric's . . . wish he could have waited for one of your '98s!

I know this request gets old but I'd really like to know the history of this one. It's a '96 Outback, EJ22, 5-speed MT: 4S3BG4853T6387107 Mahalo!

Hi Eben--welcome to the USMB! If you will start a thread in the "New Gen Forum" you'll get more responses. Include some details about the car--model, year, mileage, history--how long have you had it? Symptoms? How did you pull the code? Any recent work done on the car?

The CEL means the car has a problem and wants to tell you what it is! Have your mechanic pull the code--and if he can't (!) go to an Autozone or some other chain auto parts store--they'll usually pull the code for free and tell you what it is. Get the actual code number--like "P0xxx" (not just a verbal description)--and post it here, then someone can answer your questions. About the blinking CC light--a quick search here on USMB turned up this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126827-check-engine-lightcruise-control/?hl=%2Bblinking+%2Bcruise+%2Bcontrol+%2Blight Good luck.

Might make it better if you told folks where Parker Subaru is!

Congratulations roodabigman! I just love success stories like this. Once again the caring/sharing good guys of USMB put on their white hats and fight the forces of darkness! And once again a sweet-running EJ22 purrs off into the sunset.

"Is it worth getting?" That's entirely up to you! Anything can be fixed--but at what cost? If the head gaskets are leaking they can be replaced. Do it yourself for the cost of gaskets and some machine shop work. Or take it to a mechanic and it could cost $1500. If there's a fuse in the FWD holder it may be masking "torque bind." That means you'd have to repair or replace the clutches in the tranny's rear extension housing (you can drop the unit from under the car--no need to pull the tranny.) Could be quite expensive if you have a mechanic do it using new parts. Not too bad if you DIY with parts from a P n' P. By the way, to check for torque bind take the car to an open area, like an empty parking lot. Remove the "FWD" fuse, crank the steering wheel all the way to one side, put the car in gear and let it idle itself around a circle. If you get bucking and hopping, that's torque bind! One upside--if you do find problems and are willing to tackle them, you can use that as a bargaining chip to lower the car's purchase price! Good luck!

That's a good looking vehicle, Lewis. Hope it meets your expectations--good luck!

Some more helpful articles: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf

A quick search and voila: http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/engine/timingbelt.pdf

Of course you can. You have our permission.

Just to clarify--by "AFM" you mean Air Flow Meter, correct? In other words, MAF or MAP?

Welcome aboard n00baru! Don't obsess over getting "the proper angle." The reason is simply to get the sensor sitting flush and flat on the engine block. Put the new sensor down there at approximately the correct angle then turn it slightly side-to-side--you should be able to feel when it's sitting flat. Re-read Fairtax's first post--he explains it very well. And as he said, don't overtighten it or you can easily crack the new one. Good luck!

Great news, heartless! New valve cover gaskets will undoubtedly help too. How about the front end? New cam & crank seals, oil pump reseal, cam O-rings might be a good idea. Good luck!

You're certainly welcome. All of the Legacies are basically the same mechanically--the Outback's suspension makes it stand taller. And personally, I would never consider a turbo--it'd be a lof fun but if anything goes wrong you'd be looking at big bucks to fix. Don't get stuck on mileage as a factor. A well cared for 200k+ car is a far better buy than a sub-180k car that's been neglected and abused. (That's why you have to shop carefully.) And yes, a lot of Subies go well past 300k--but they've had some TLC along he way! Again, good luck--and keep us informed on your progress.

Welcome to the USMB, Nick. (From another Nick!) Sounds to me like you need a '90 thru '96 Legacy Wagon. Size would be perfect for your needs. The EJ22 engine is seen as "bulletproof." It's non-interference through the '96 MY. Easy to work on--and easy to learn how to work on. Parts are generally not too pricey and lots of parts can be recycled--find a good pull-n-pay yard. Torque bind is not a big problem if you just pay a little attention to the car--main thing, tires must match. Preventive maintenance and a little TLC are the key. And they're still highly available, usually at reasonable prices. Just shop carefully. Your best resource, of course, is right here where you are--the USMB! Search--read--ask questions. Good luck!

Here's a thread from the past that may be of some help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/39122-headlight-connector-go-poof/?hl=%2Bheadlight+%2Bpoof Good luck!

Hi selva--welcome aboard USMB. Lots of good people here, I'm sure you'll get tons of help--just ask! And good luck with your Leone.