Olnick

Thanks for sharing your "lemonade!" The scenes look magnificent--and so do your cars.

Can you explain how your starter "is beginning to go?" If the solenoid clicks but the starter won't turn over, then new contacts will fix it as J A Blazer said. Inexpensive and not a very difficult job at all.

Welcome to USMB, Raman. If you will put your query in the "Newer Generations--1990 to Present . . . " forum you'll have a better chance of getting answers.

Your son is a very lucky young man--he has a great vehicle to drive and a great Dad to respect! Good job. Looks beautiful.

How do the weights of the two compare?

Welcome to USMB, Javier. Car looks beautiful, especially under the hood!

Yes, I use the "5th gear with brake applied" method on manual tranny cars. But both bonvo and ShawnW seem to be saying there's a "starter bump trick" to tighten the crank pulley bolt. If there is, I'd like to know how it works! BTW, that Grimspeed tool looks awesome ferret.

What am I missing here? I've used the starter bump method to loosen a crank bolt--but I fail to see how you can use that torque to tighten one!

Makes sense to me! Thanks Fairtax. I guess I'm so old-fashioned that when I see "code" I automatically think OBD codes!

Are you sure you want to have the dealer read the code? It could be expensive! Check around some of the parts "chain stores" like Autozone--they will often read codes for free. At any rate, get the code number--not just a verbal description--and post it here. Good luck.

Let me put it this way--I've replaced timing belts and rebuilt the front ends on two Legacies (EJ22s, I admit!) and I ain't no great shakes as a mechanic! If I can do it, I'm willing to bet you can too. Study, study, study. Read everything you can about the procedure. Then read it again. Make sure you know exactly what marks go where. Take your time, make notes, take pix if you need to. And if you get stuck come on here and ask for help. That way you can use your hard-earned money to buy the new belt, new idlers, new tensioner (if needed), new water pump, thermostat and gasket, new crank & cam seals, new oil pump o-ring & sealant--you know, all the good stuff! You can do it. Good luck & enjoy!

Welcome aboard, Will. You sound like a true-believer and you haven't even got the car yet! I can't comment on the new Subaru--I haven't even sat in one yet. But if your brand new Outback is even half the car my beloved '95 Legacy is you'll be a very happy man! Good luck and happy roads.

If the CEL is on first thing to do is pull the code! Try Autozone or some other parts chain store--they'll often do it free. Then post the code number (the actual number, not a verbal description) here. That will give us something to work from.

Not knowing any details this is just a wild guess--but check out the ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor). Maybe clean the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) too. And replace the PCV while you're there. Good luck--and welcome to USMB!

So, what are they . . . other than pretty?!!

A while back I had squealing on start-up and, IIRC, when engaging the AC. Checked the belt--it was in good shape, tension was fine. But I decided to take the tensioner mechanism off and check the idler pulley. Turns out the pulley mount had gotten slightly cockeyed--the axis of the pulley wasn't exactly perpendicular to the belt! Cleaned it up, remounted it, adjusted the tension and it's been running quietly ever since! Hope this helps. Good luck to you.

Great explanation Fairtax! I never knew how that worked. Thanks.

Welcome aboard Jason. You've found a great place here for help with your Subie. Enjoy!

That's great news HadrianV--and thanks for letting us know. Years ago I had to replace the ECTS on my '95 and it was magical how the car immediately ran "like new!" You might want to check for OBD2 codes again, there might still be some stored. Probably needs a new KS. And I'd be tempted to pull the thermostat to make sure it's the correct (Subaru) one. You don't have to open up the front end to get to the T-stat--can do it from under the car. Good luck & happy driving.

Check the online prices heartless, then call Jason, Parts Manager at Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn, WA. 866-528-5282. Good guy and has always given us excellent prices.

Could be that your Temp Gauge isn't working right because the sender is bad. It mounts in the crossover pipe right next to the ECTS. Congrats on getting her running "like a new car!"

Don't panic--I'm sure your car is totally "salvageable!" How long have you had it? How many miles on it? Do you know any of its repair history? From the codes I'd suggest trying a new ECTS--engine coolant temperature sender. New knock sensor too. They're not very expensive and not very difficult to install. Also drain and flush the dirty coolant--maybe pull the old thermostat and replace (make sure you only use a genuine Subaru 'stat!) Don't know your level of "expertise," but these are all fairly simple "driveway repairs." Try a search here on USMB, they've all been well documented over the years. The '95s are great engines, I've driven mine for years and it still "runs like new!" (But the body ain't gonna' last much longer!!!) Good luck--and by all means keep asking questions if there's something you don't understand. Oh, and welcome to USMB!

Welcome to the USMB, Reidy. Always nice to meet someone who would "rather repair than throw the vehicle away!" The first gen Legacy/Liberty is a great vehicle. The usual fix up here is to simply tear out the pneumatic suspension and replace with standard coil springs and struts, generally with parts from a salvage yard. It's been talked about a lot in the past--maybe you can find useful information with the "search" function. Hopefully someone with more suspension knowledge than I have will jump in with suggestions and links. Good luck.

Welcome to USMB--you'll find a lot of warm, friendly help here. But you've got to post in the right place! Go to the "New Generation" forum and post the questions. Oh, and add what year and model your Subie is--it can make a difference.

"I went out and stared at the suby again this morning, thats when I noticed that the marks on the timing belt no longer match up with the marks on the camshafts. They should be lined up right? Or is it the marks on the cam's and the marks on the engine that I need to worry about. When I put it on it all lined up... :angry:" What you saw is perfectly normal--the belt marks and pulley marks only line up once every-so-many revolutions (can't remember the number of revs offhand.) The big question is what marks did you use to align the crank and cam pulleys before you hung the belt?